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IT finally happened to me


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I saw a post in here about a MJ owner that had 'accidently' inserted his screwdriver into the radiator, another who had driven his car into the back of the garage at 20MPH...and now I have done one better:

 

My son and I replaced the E-brake lines on the Christmas MJ today, and while in the process of allowing the drums to self adjust (read: driving foward and backward till the adjusters do thier thing) the truck died....just stalled in place like the last time, except I was on my street. It would not re-start.

 

So, we started to push it home. Backwards. I was on the drivers side with the door open...steering and pushing. I saw the mailbox on the shoulder...and didn't think about the door being open...and the door hit it, bending the door back against the fender. :mad: :headpop: :mad: .

 

Needless to say, words were spoken...without good result. It was my fault.

 

So, we finished pushing it back, and I took the door off and pounded the hinges back into thier holes. The door was not badly damaged, but even with the hinges back in place it does not want to shut properly. (read: you gotta force it to close).

 

So the question: Has anyone had experience on resetting the door hinges or aligning the doors on our rigs? The door has proper spacing in relation to the fender and the cab, and will close most of the way, but does not line up with the strike, and when you push it upwards to the strike it acts like there is an object that is holding it from closing.

 

And, I had to fix the damned mailbox as well. :oops:

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I did that to the ol' Escort back in the day while pushing it out of the garage. :roll: Not too bad, but enough to wrinkle the fender a bit.

And friends of my sister did that to my 86 MJ. They clipped the door on a tree while pushing it in their backyard. If I remember right, I believe that was the last time I ever loaned out a truck to anyone. :mad:

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First off........don't trust the "self adjuster's" I know what your were trying, the only true method, it to jack up the wheel, and adjust the drag by hand, and then check them at every oil change.

 

Second, more that likely, you sprung the A pillar where the hinge is welded in to the body. The bolts on the door are adjustable, but not on the A pillar.

 

You could try the 'ol'e ' door fully open, and a floor jack on the far (lock) corner, with a block of wood and jack up the door to try to spring the hinge back up and in. Other wise, it's, take the fender off, and re-work the A pillar to get the "spring" out of the hinge, like cutting off the hinge and reworking the mount.

 

You write about "forcing" the door shut, that means that the door is "hinge bound" and even thought you don't see it, the A pillar is out of shape where the hinge is mounted.

 

Another thought........try a 2 x 4 between the door and the A pillar, and force the door out, that might straighten out the hinge mount too.

 

Oh.......and I hope this wasn't your neighbors mail box that got in your way :roll:

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First off........don't trust the "self adjuster's" I know what your were trying, the only true method, it to jack up the wheel, and adjust the drag by hand, and then check them at every oil change.

 

Second, more that likely, you sprung the A pillar where the hinge is welded in to the body. The bolts on the door are adjustable, but not on the A pillar.

 

You could try the 'ol'e ' door fully open, and a floor jack on the far (lock) corner, with a block of wood and jack up the door to try to spring the hinge back up and in. Other wise, it's, take the fender off, and re-work the A pillar to get the "spring" out of the hinge, like cutting off the hinge and reworking the mount.

 

You write about "forcing" the door shut, that means that the door is "hinge bound" and even thought you don't see it, the A pillar is out of shape where the hinge is mounted.

 

Another thought........try a 2 x 4 between the door and the A pillar, and force the door out, that might straighten out the hinge mount too.

 

Oh.......and I hope this wasn't your neighbors mail box that got in your way :roll:

 

Yeah listen to Wildman,,,, He's an OFFICIAL "door" guy... :chillin:

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I got a good one for you. On my LJ I knew I could get into my old garage no problem, had an easy two inches of clearance. One day I was working with the hood up in the driveway and it got hot. So I just backed it in to the garage without a second thought. Definitely tacoed my hood a bit when it hit the top door jam. Spend 130 at a body shop for them to straighten it and then I used touch up paint myself. I literally had to get out a hammer and hit the jeep after I did that, only way I could make the pain go away, which I realize makes no sense, but the hood was f-ed anyway.

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Thanks for the stories...it does make one feel slightly better.

 

I looked at the body lines when the door is almost closed - the hesitation that I felt yesterday is because the bottom of the door is rubbing on the plastic cover mounted on the door opening. I must raise the door several inches to get it to come even close to the latch. Otherwise, when the door is engaged the rear of the door (door-handle end) is depressed about 1/4 inch below the cab body. Otherwise the body contour lines (from front to rear) are pretty much in alignment (which makes no sense if the door has to rise vertically).

 

I tried the 2x4 and it raised the top hinge on the door at the hinge end flush with the fender. Otherwise it had no other effect. If I did not know better I'd say the hinges got moved down in the impact, but that makes no sense as the forces were pushing it back, not down.

 

The vehicle still refuses to start, it will turn over but not catch. When it died I was preforming a brake test for 'panic braking', where I accellerated up to approximately 25 MPH then jammed on the brakes. It died precisely when the MJ came to a full stop.

 

I have replaced: plugs, rotor, distributor cap, wires, fuel filter. The CPS was recently replaced by the PO, but I have another that I will install tomorrow (hopefully). I do hear the fuel pump starting when the key it turned, and I am getting 39 PSI on the fuel rail upon cranking. The vehicle was running fine after the replacement of the items shown.

 

Ideas are welcome! Also, (even though it makes no sense because of the pressure at the fuel rail) does anyone know if the 89 model came with a inertia fuel shut off? Would disconnecting the battery (in an attempt to reset the ECM) do any good? If so, how long to leave it open before re-connection?

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another who had driven his car into the back of the garage at 20MPH..

the quote in my sig is from Mark Martin during testing at Las Vegas earlier this year. The worst thing i've done (so far) was forgetting to set the parking brake while sitting in a friend's sloping driveway. Wasn't a problem until we put the truck in neutral to install the new carpeting. Good thing he lives on a cul-de-sac.

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another who had driven his car into the back of the garage at 20MPH..

the quote in my sig is from Mark Martin during testing at Las Vegas earlier this year. The worst thing i've done (so far) was forgetting to set the parking brake while sitting in a friend's sloping driveway. Wasn't a problem until we put the truck in neutral to install the new carpeting. Good thing he lives on a cul-de-sac.

 

My pardon sir...no insult intended :cheers:

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does anyone know if the 89 model came with a inertia fuel shut off?

 

The answer is.......NO.

 

The only thing that has any "safety" issue is the top vents on the gas tank, called a " fuel tank pressure relief and roll over valve"

 

Would disconnecting the battery (in an attempt to reset the ECM) do any good? If so, how long to leave it open before re-connection?

 

That dose not work with the Renix system, it will work for an OBD I or OBD II system. Our ECM do not store any codes or info after the key is turned off, and each New start is a fresh start, the ECM goes into an "open loop" until the engine warms up to operating temperature, then goes into a "closed loop"

 

When you came to a panic full dead stop, something came loose. Right off the top of my head .........I can't think what it could be.

 

You mention about all the new parts you installed, but the OP replaced the CPS. I would check the connector first, by disconnecting it, and then plugging it back together first, then try the engine to see if it starts.

 

Also.......put up the specs of your MJ, OK, we know it's a '89, and assume it's a 4.0, but what about the drive train......auto, or manual?? 2wd or 4wd??? Yes, this all matters, you could have joshed the NSS when you hit the mail box :roll: ......I mean the panic stop.

 

Now.......your door, yes, you said the latch side dropped down, and you pried it back up, Yes, when you hit the mail box, you bent the door back, pass fully opened, you tweaked the A pillar and forced the top, or both hinges in to the body, that where you want to try the 2x4, between the door it's self, and the A pillar. to try to "re-bent" the hinges back out. If you hold the 2x in between the two, and "force the door shut, you will pull the hinges back out of the A pillar.

 

Oh.......and Yes, I am a door man, mostly commercial doors and operators, but I also know car doors (mvusse) :D

 

OK......I re-read what you tried, your getting fuel, 39 pounds at the rail, that's good, but are you getting spark???? The CPS would be the first thing to check, like I wrote above, but check your "new" wires at the coil and distributor, and check all the plug wires. Check for spark before you go any further.

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You mention about all the new parts you installed, but the OP replaced the CPS. I would check the connector first, by disconnecting it, and then plugging it back together first, then try the engine to see if it starts.

 

Yes, I thought about that and tried the disconnect/reconnect without effect. I will replace the CPS tomorrow (hopefully)

 

Also.......put up the specs of your MJ, OK, we know it's a '89, and assume it's a 4.0, but what about the drive train......auto, or manual?? 2wd or 4wd??? Yes, this all matters, you could have joshed the NSS when you hit the mail box :roll: ......I mean the panic stop.

 

1989 (renix) 4.0L straight 6; 2wd LB, Dana 35 with an ax15 auto trans.

 

Now.......your door, yes, you said the latch side dropped down, and you pried it back up, Yes, when you hit the mail box, you bent the door back, pass fully opened, you tweaked the A pillar and forced the top, or both hinges in to the body, that where you want to try the 2x4, between the door it's self, and the A pillar. to try to "re-bent" the hinges back out. If you hold the 2x in between the two, and "force the door shut, you will pull the hinges back out of the A pillar.

 

Yeah I tried the 2x4 in the area between the two hinges against the A pillar and behind the door. It forced the upper hinge out some but not the bottom. I ran out of daylight before I could get back to it, I'll try again tomorrow. Did not affect the fact that the door is evenly hanging low (whole door is low).

 

OK......I re-read what you tried, your getting fuel, 39 pounds at the rail, that's good, but are you getting spark???? The CPS would be the first thing to check, like I wrote above, but check your "new" wires at the coil and distributor, and check all the plug wires. Check for spark before you go any further.

 

Checked that first...have good spark and all the plug wires are tight.

 

Thanks for your answer...If you think of anything else please let me know.

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Just one quick thing Jake... The AX15 is a manual (5spd) trans. The AW4 is the auto ;) :cheers: . I wouldn't normally pick at that, but it could be important in this particular case because of the eletrical functions attached to the AW4, but not the AX15. jamminz.gif

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Just one quick thing Jake... The AX15 is a manual (5spd) trans. The AW4 is the auto ;) :cheers: . I wouldn't normally pick at that, but it could be important in this particular case because of the eletrical functions attached to the AW4, but not the AX15. jamminz.gif

 

Well yeah, I must have been sleeping when I typed that. Its the AW4.

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OK we got it running again.

 

:jump:

 

 

Turns out the nut had come off of the grounding stud on the left side of the engine and the wires were hanging free. I have no idea why I was still able to get spark without that ground... :dunno:

 

We also replaced the CPS and installed the correct service mod harness to the ECM.

 

Got door aligned so that it closes easily but it is still inset below the cab on the bottom rear (handle side) and there is a gap at the bottom front between door and gasket (sigh). I suppose that'll have to wait for the body shop to re-align the A pillar.

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That's good to hear :D

 

Turns out the nut had come off of the grounding stud on the left side of the engine and the wires were hanging free. I have no idea why I was still able to get spark without that ground.

 

You mean the "main" ground on the Passenger side?? Yep, that would kill the engine. You probably got 'spark' from the body ground, enough to light up a test light, but not enough to fire the plugs.

 

We also replaced the CPS and installed the correct service mod harness to the ECM.

 

Yes........good upgrade ;)

 

You might be able to 'adjust' the door with the 3 screws in each hinge, and some shim plates to get the final results you want on the body lines, that is if your door is not sprung (bent / warped)

 

Next time.........if you want to take out a mail box, use a base ball bat, alot less fixing latter on :brows:

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