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Can Comanche Wheel bearings be re-packed?


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If you don't know how long they have been in there just replace them. I just did mine recently and it will only set you back about $20 or so. I did all the front wheel bearings and it rides soomth as glass. If you repack them youll need to clean them thouroughly and inspect very close, I had one that had a small chunk missing out of it and that would have ruined my spindle.

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If you don't know how long they have been in there just replace them. I just did mine recently and it will only set you back about $20 or so. I did all the front wheel bearings and it rides soomth as glass. If you repack them youll need to clean them thouroughly and inspect very close, I had one that had a small chunk missing out of it and that would have ruined my spindle.

 

How difficult is it to do? Is there any online tutorials?

 

Thanks again for your help.

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If you don't know how long they have been in there just replace them. I just did mine recently and it will only set you back about $20 or so. I did all the front wheel bearings and it rides soomth as glass. If you repack them youll need to clean them thouroughly and inspect very close, I had one that had a small chunk missing out of it and that would have ruined my spindle.

 

For fronts? I get mine for $102 apiece and from what I understand that's on the cheaper side. When I priced 2wd spindles they were around $50 apiece

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Any way to tell if they are bad, or need replacing? 1988 MJ, with 69,000 miles.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

If they make noise or are loose, they should likely be replaced. Factory bearings can go 150 or 200k before needing replacement, so it's not a regular maintenance issue, but rather a "when it goes bad, replace it" thing. Rough roads, bigger tires, or wheels with less backspacing can accelerate wear.

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I can't repack my 2wd's though can I?? I believe it has a one piece hub... I know the rotor don't come off easy..

 

Sure can JT. It is a one piece hub, but the rotor comes off easy, once you slip the caliper off, remove the cotter pin, unscrew the hub nut, and slide it off. Just did a bearing and race replacement this week. Bearings and races are pretty cheap, so I don't repack the old bearings, just replace both. :cheers:

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I can't repack my 2wd's though can I?? I believe it has a one piece hub... I know the rotor don't come off easy..

 

Sure can JT. It is a one piece hub, but the rotor comes off easy, once you slip the caliper off, remove the cotter pin, unscrew the hub nut, and slide it off. Just did a bearing and race replacement this week. Bearings and races are pretty cheap, so I don't repack the old bearings, just replace both. :cheers:

 

sweet.... spicer?? Got any numbers???

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I get them at O'Reillys since I have an account there. Ask for the National bearing set for the inners and outers, priced at $6.49 & $5.49 /ea respectively. They are made by Spicer. :chillin:

 

Thanks!! If you think you could get the bearing nubers I may be able to get them through work.... cheaper than that!!! :brows: ...

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  • 2 months later...

I just pulled my left front hub off and my bearings look great,, but the rear bearing is making me second guess things...

Because; 1. The rear bearing dosent seem to have a outer race

and 2. It s really lose flopping around inside the hub. but with all the movement, if I let the bearing kinda drop (hard explaining this) feels like it snugs down on a race, but I swear I can't see a race on the rear bearing..

 

I really don't want to pull the rear seal. Its in very good condition too. Plus, I don't want to go through the crap of riding to the parts store, ordering, BUYING, going back, blah,blah,blah...

 

I guess my question is does this sound normal??? ok Ill check back later cause I have everything just sitting out there now clean, but uncovered..

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I just pulled my left front hub off and my bearings look great,, but the rear bearing is making me second guess things...

Because; 1. The rear bearing dosent seem to have a outer race

and 2. It s really lose flopping around inside the hub. but with all the movement, if I let the bearing kinda drop (hard explaining this) feels like it snugs down on a race, but I swear I can't see a race on the rear bearing..

 

I really don't want to pull the rear seal. Its in very good condition too. Plus, I don't want to go through the crap of riding to the parts store, ordering, BUYING, going back, blah,blah,blah...

 

I guess my question is does this sound normal??? ok Ill check back later cause I have everything just sitting out there now clean, but uncovered..

 

Guess you're talking about the inner bearing on your 2WD, si? The race for the inner bearing is in the rotor hub. I've seen two different rotors, one with replacable races and one not. I think the HOs started the replacable races. If you replace the inner bearing, you got to pull and replace the seal too. Always wise to replace both inner and outer bearings. And it's normal for it to flop around until it's seated on the spindle.

 

BTW, when tightening the spindle nut after everything's back together, rotate the rotor while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. torque to seat the bearings. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn, rotote the rotor again and tighten to 19 in. lbs. torque

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I just pulled my left front hub off and my bearings look great,, but the rear bearing is making me second guess things...

Because; 1. The rear bearing dosent seem to have a outer race

and 2. It s really lose flopping around inside the hub. but with all the movement, if I let the bearing kinda drop (hard explaining this) feels like it snugs down on a race, but I swear I can't see a race on the rear bearing..

 

I really don't want to pull the rear seal. Its in very good condition too. Plus, I don't want to go through the crap of riding to the parts store, ordering, BUYING, going back, blah,blah,blah...

 

I guess my question is does this sound normal??? ok Ill check back later cause I have everything just sitting out there now clean, but uncovered..

 

Guess you're talking about the inner bearing on your 2WD, si? The race for the inner bearing is in the rotor hub. I've seen two different rotors, one with replacable races and one not. I think the HOs started the replacable races. If you replace the inner bearing, you got to pull and replace the seal too. Always wise to replace both inner and outer bearings. And it's normal for it to flop around until it's seated on the spindle.

 

BTW, when tightening the spindle nut after everything's back together, rotate the rotor while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. torque to seat the bearings. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn, rotote the rotor again and tighten to 19 in. lbs. torque

Thanks Don!!! :thumbsup:

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  • 5 years later...

1986 MJ 2WD:

 

Am about to pull my bearings, I sure hope they are the old kind with repackable bearings. Anyway, I've been looking thru Hell's Little Half Acre (search engines, parts supply websites and etc) for the requisite dust caps as mine are missing. Looked for those generic ones and the HELP section of parts stores as well as trailer & tractor supply stores. I now have an assortment of dust caps that almost fit.

 

Please somebody help me with a part number or part supplier for these dust caps. Just can't get to repacking till I know I can keep the grease clean after. 

 

 

Any help is much appreciated. Also, yahoo may have deleted my e-mail addy for inactivity so please feel free to email me directly at MServa58@gmail.com.

 

Thanks much and happy holidays!

 

P.S. Do not mean to steal a thread yet it looks like the question was well answered regarding repacking. Thanks again.

 

 

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