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Questions about buying a rebuilt engine.


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So I've came across a rebuilt engine for sale for cheap (under $200).

 

It's a 4.0 out of an 89 XJ. According to the owner, "it was a total rebuild magnaflux, bored, new bearings pistons and rods and I have the receipts from napa still adding up to over $850. It was rebuilt 10 years ago but the project never was finished so it was never fired up. The engine comes with all the brackets, intake and exhaust manifold, a/c compressor, dist. and alternator".

 

So my question is, after sitting for ten years, what if any ill effects will that have on the motor and what are the things I should look at or do when or if I go to pick it up?

 

:cheers:

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Interesting topic... I am "part" owner of a 4.7L Stroker that was done about 10,000 miles ago... It's still in MI, but I was kind of wondering what kind of "trouble" i'm going to be in once it gets here... it too has all the "paperwork" for the purchase of new parts to complete the stroker, but I'm hoping that I'm not getting in over my head if I have to "redo" or recheck everything that has already been done. I don't think it's been sitting as long as the one mentioned....

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I know what you mean Wade. I can bolt things on with the best of them but engine rebuilding is very close if not over my limits. Here's some more info and pic. The engine was rebuilt by NAPA and is bored .040 over and power honed. He's going to send me the scan copy of the reciepts. Here's the pic and from the looks of it, it's been garage kept.

 

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I know what you mean Wade. I can bolt things on with the best of them but engine rebuilding is very close if not over my limits. Here's some more info and pic. The engine was rebuilt by NAPA and is bored .040 over and power honed. He's going to send me the scan copy of the reciepts. Here's the pic and from the looks of it, it's been garage kept.

 

 

Looks really CLEAN!... I'll be interested to see where this thread goes... it mgiht be a couple months before I get mine shipped out from MI (I need to get the other MJ out of my Garage before I start another big project!

 

Sw2

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I would, at minimum, pour some fresh oil in it, squirt some marvel mystery oil on all the spark plug holes and turn the crank by hand several revolutions to be sure it is good & free. If you wish to spin it a little faster...you could use an impact gun to spin it a bit, but do it by hand first to be sure it turns.

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I'm with BLHTAZ. I'd drain the pan, or at least see if anything is in it, pour in some fresh oil and then do as he suggested. I've used some engines, without having to tear them apart, that have sat around for a few years with no ill affects.

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Well the guy sent me the copy of the reciepts. It's a done deal, $150. jamminz.gif I'll pick it up this weekend.

 

Now I just have to figure out how to get it into the back of my wifes 06 Highlander. :brows: It's way better on gas than the TJ with trailer and I dare not take the 86 MJ for a 276 mile round trip. The only down side to not taking the trailer is that he has a Aw4 and 231 tcase that I could also get for another $200. $350 for a complete setup aint bad. Decisions, decisions.

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Well the guy sent me the copy of the reciepts. It's a done deal, $150. jamminz.gif I'll pick it up this weekend.

 

Now I just have to figure out how to get it into the back of my wifes 06 Highlander. :brows: It's way better on gas than the TJ with trailer and I dare not take the 86 MJ for a 276 mile round trip. The only down side to not taking the trailer is that he has a Aw4 and 231 tcase that I could also get for another $200. $350 for a complete setup aint bad. Decisions, decisions.

 

Take the trailer and get the whole setup... I mean if your spending the $$$ on gas to get down there anyhow and already getting a good deal, I would just pick it all up. Heck you could probably sell the AW4/231 if they are not blown and pay for the engine, gas and stuff you'll need to get it running strong again.

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Take the trailer and get the whole setup... I mean if your spending the $$$ on gas to get down there anyhow and already getting a good deal, I would just pick it all up. Heck you could probably sell the AW4/231 if they are not blown and pay for the engine, gas and stuff you'll need to get it running strong again.

X2 ... just what I was going to say. jamminz.gif
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I would grab it all but two things, one I'm trying to save a little cash and two I have 2 231 tcases, 1 242 tcase, a 4.0, a 2.5 with 4spd tranny, a aw4, a D44, a high pinion D30 and D35, front 2wd axle, and a whole lot of other stuff in the garage right now. I just don't think I have the room. :D

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I would grab it all but two things, one I'm trying to save a little cash and two I have 2 231 tcases, 1 242 tcase, a 4.0, a 2.5 with 4spd tranny, a aw4, a D44, a high pinion D30 and D35, front 2wd axle, and a whole lot of other stuff in the garage right now. I just don't think I have the room. :D

 

Damn... have a ComancheClub Garage sale and blow some of that stuff out there...

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Well I picked it up today. 3hrs up and 3hrs back. Factor gas cost, tolls, and price for the motor, total $250. It was a little late and rain was moving in so I haven't done a complete internal inspection. From what I can see through the oil fill and plug holes, it looks pretty good. Here's some pic's.

 

 

Got the engine stand in the deal. :brows: Will post what I find later.

 

:cheers:

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That engine looks solid man.... Great price... I think youll be fine with some new oil...

 

 

Is there a way to manually prime the oil system on a 4.0???

 

yep, remove the dizzy, take a flathead screwdriver and chop the handle off and put it in a drill. fill engine with about half the oil required from factory, and spin the dizzy rotor with the screwdriver tip.

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That engine looks solid man.... Great price... I think youll be fine with some new oil...

 

 

Is there a way to manually prime the oil system on a 4.0???

 

yep, remove the dizzy, take a flathead screwdriver and chop the handle off and put it in a drill. fill engine with about half the oil required from factory, and spin the dizzy rotor with the screwdriver tip.

 

pretty much the same way to prime a SBC

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