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Anyone have any tips or tricks for bleeding a new clutch system? This is on a Peugeot trans. I fear I may have blown out my brand new slave cylinder. Installed new clutch, master and slave the other day. Whenever I push the pedal in its dumping fluid out of the bottom of the clutch housing. Have a new slave on the way but don't want to pull the trans again if I don't have to. I filled the master with fluid and pushed the pedal in to fill the system, fluid went down and repeated then noticed it was pouring fluid out of the bottom. Not my first clutch but still new to manual trans maintenance. From what I have researched I feel like there was too much pressure in the lines and it blew the seal out of the slave cylinder. Thanks for any help.

Hello so I’ll start out with a little history ive got a 1990 Comanche 4.0L came stock with a ax 15 2wd transmission. Me and my buddy put a 4wd ax15 from a 1991 XJ in it this weekend, resurfaced the flywheel , new clutch ,pressure plate, pilot bearing ,and slave cylinder, fresh fluids all that Jazz. So buttoned it all up bleed the slave and put it in 4H just to try everything out(don’t have a rear driveshaft yet, t case has a SYE) . The transmission was struggling to go into any gear I could put it in first and reverse a couple times but very difficult. I shifted the t case into 4L and had better luck shifting gears that way but after a minute or two I pulled over and the slave spewed all the brake fluid from inside the bell housing. So basically my question is should I be looking at a bad transmission or maybe a poorly installed and bleed internal slave ?or even a bad slave clyinder. Any info or input is appreciated I’m not sure if I should try another slave clyinder or maybe take the trans to a shop for a rebuild and hopefully the new clutch is not contaminated with oil Thanks. Jared

I had my mechanic replace the slave cylinder in my 87 about a month ago. I noticed trouble getting into reverse about a week ago, but wrote it off as my imagination. Got in the truck to run some errands today and couldn't get it into gear. No leaks anywhere, and the reservior level hasn't dropped since I got it back from the shop. I Bled the clutch hydraulic system and pushed a ton of air before I got straight fluid. Clutch works great now. My question is - did the guy just do a $#!& job bleeding it after he finished the work or what? If so, why would it take three weeks of driving for before I had any trouble shifting? - and.. what else could cause me to get air in the lines? Like I said, I don't have any leaks, and I haven't run the reservior dry. Not sure If this is relevant, but this is the third time I've had the slave replaced, (the trucks only got 72,000 on it). Got a different mechanic to do the latest job.

Hi all, I just got my first Comanche a few months ago and it's been an awesome truck for me so far. Until the other day I started her up and the clutch went down to the floor, and I could barely change gears. I checked my reservoir and it was dry, so I topped it off hoping that would do the trick. Nothing. I did some research online (including this site) and figured out it's probably one of the cylinders that went bad. The problem is I'm not sure which one. I'm really hoping it's the master, because unfortunately my truck has the dreaded internal slave cylinder, and I don't have the knowledge or tools to drop the transmission myself. Thing is, there's no visible leaking at either cylinder, so I'm completely lost as to which one I should replace. At this point I'm thinking of just doing the master myself, and if that doesn't fix the problem then I'll take her into a shop. But I would love to spare myself the trouble and cost of replacing parts that don't need replacing.... Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Cary

Hows it going I just got a new clutch kit and flywheel for my 88 Comanche also comes with the hydraulic throw out bearing /slave cylinder... I know how to bleed my clutch but I don't know how to bleed a new hydraulic throw out bearing and I think it has to get bled before installing to prevent it from rupture... can anyone please help me thank you

i am in need of a new clutch and needed some info on which one people have had the best luck with. I used a Duralast the last time i put one in a vehicle. and was not super happy with the results. I am wanting a clutch kit with a slave cylinder included. i have looked on a few websites and seen some i like.i am not trying to spend a arm and a leg on it but i would of course like my moneys worth. summit and RockAuto has a few on there website that are decent. the clutch is going to be in a daily driver and mild wheeler. thanks for help guys.

hey guys I'm new to jeeps all together,, my dad gave me an 88 comanche and hes been lots of fun till now.. i was on my way to work when my clutch pedal sank,, turns out the clutch master cylinder went bad,, i changed it and refilled the lines only to have it gushing from the bottom.. it was running at this point!! had to change the slave cylinder,, after we put the tranny back together and connected everything in getting no juice!! the only thing electrical working now is the seatbelt lamp and buzzer.. i had the starter tested,, its good.. i took the fuse box apart and cleaned all the break fluid out of it and put it back together with new fuses.. is it possible it could be the starter relay?? when i hit the key it cranks,, I'm just not getting any fuel.. no head lights,, wipers,, tail lights,, radio,, signals,, hazzards.. everything electrical is out!! help a girl get this fixed.. :)

Hi guys, I got a '86 2.5 with an AX-5 and 4x4, recently my master cylinder started leaking so i decided to replace both the master and slave cylinder. Looking at the Slave cylinder, it seems near impossible to reach the top bolt on the slave cylinder. Its an external cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas? Do I have to drop the tranny or can it be done? Thank you

I have a 92 MJ L6 4.0 5speed with the internal slave cylinder, I’ve been told and read up on this and other forums as much I could about this swap and think I have a good understanding of the process. My question is, I have a friend looking to get rid of his 96 Dodge Dakota, from what I know it has the same AX15 transmission with the external slave, however it has a 4L engine, does anyone have any information if this will still be a bolt on fit for the bellhousing? Also, when replacing the clutch would I purchase one for a 92 or does it need to be a 96 for the updated parts? Thanks for the help.

Hi All, I've replaced the master cylinder and am in the process of installing a new clutch kit and replacing the slave cylinder (concentric bearing) in my 1990 Jeep Comanche, 2.5L. The replacement slave has a big, black fitting on the end of the line that should lead to the master cylinder. The other line is a bleeder that looks normal. The black fitting doesn't just pop off (twists freely, but won't come off with plenty of force), and it has some weird metal stuff on the inside that makes me think it's a working part, not just a cap. But the line won't fit through the hole in the transmission bell housing where it's supposed to. I'm wondering if anyone else has come across a slave that has this weird fitting, and how I can get it to fit in the bell housing. Pictures below. Here's the new slave cylinder (concentric bearing) that goes inside the bell housing. Here's a closeup inside that black fitting. And in the top right there is the hole that line needs to feed through, but it's too big with th black piece. Any help / experience with this issue would be really great. Thanks!

Hello, I posted earlier about a clutch that wouldn't disengage. 1990 2.5L 4 cylinder RWD. With a little help from this forum I got it working again (filled and bled clutch hydraulic fluid) and have determined (mostly) that the issue is a failing slave cylinder. There's a slow leak from the slave which is related somehow. I'd like to install a new clutch kit (including slave) and master cylinder, but the slave install requires me to remove the transmission. I'm not a mechanic, don't have a lift and only have a regular jack, not a transmission jack. I own basic tools including a standard / metric socket set, but no real specific car / truck tools. Is a regular jack with a board or something and a standard set of home tools sufficient to remove the transmission, install the kit and re-install the transmission? I read about passing some chains through the shifter housing to suspend the transmission from the truck. Apparently this in tandem with a rigged jack can do the trick. I don't have a lift, either, and am not sure there's enough clearance to even do what I need to do. Anyone done this before? I'd prefer to do it myself both for cost savings and to learn a bit, but not if it's near impossible or I'll risk seriously damaging something. Thanks in advance!

I seem to have a problem with the throw out bearing staying attached to the pin on the BA 10. Also noticed that I think it is the same as the ax15? Just a hollow appearing half inch small pin on a round raised area on the front face of the trans. Buying O'reily parts and this is a new clutch kit. The slave has a strap that attaches to it. The strap keeps coming off the pin some how. Is there a remedy or a southern ingenuity fix for this? I consider putting a small screw into the top of the pin but if you break that pin off or split it out your going to be in a hell of a mess. Quick answers are appreciated as I am paying for the lift by the hour. (19.95) We pulled it off the lift and rolled it out of the bay but we need to get back to it tomorrow. James and Sugarfoot, Denton TX Red 1988 MJ Pioneer 4.0 BA10 4x4 D30 and 35 stock 268,000 miles

Welp I get to put a new internal slave in my ax-15 soon as I can tell mine is slowly dying, I've replaced the master and hydraulic line already and bled the system multiple times but the pedal still occasionally goes straight to the floor and brake fluid leaks out of my bellhousing slowly but surely.... but the question is which brand would you guys recommend as I've read that some only lasted a short period of time before going ka-put