Limeyjeeper

It is like having an ex wife lol

Body is done. Can't wait to see it all back together. Just got the hood to go. Lousy fit. Had to cut the fiberglass and realign it. But it will be worth it.

Metalcloak are the best IMHO, but expensive. Got them on my LJ. Very well made. The Duroflex bushings really do a great job. Having said that I just got a set of control arms from Core 4x4. I have them on my 91 MJ. Good quality and value.

I don"t disagree with you. All I know is when I put them on with new SD Springs and ZJ up country springs which I believe gave me a 1" lift I had to add spacers to level out the Comanche. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

True I used JKS OGS651. They are longer than stock XJ shackles and have different geometry. They lift an MJ around 2" Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

JKS. But I am gonna use Core 4x4 adjustable shackles on my new build. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I have 31's on my Comanche. XJ shackles in the back. ZJ upcountry springs and 3/4" pucks got her level. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the list. Very cool, I had no idea there were so many accessories made for the MJ in the day!!

Novak conversions https://www.novak-adapt.com will be really helpful in figuring out what can and can't be done. Not a lot of hp gain though 235hp vs 190hp. If it is an HO then you would get around 270hp which is better. Seems a lot of work for not much gain. However it is a good deal lighter than the I6. The LS is a much easier conversion, much more after market support and much more HP. My guess is that the real fun would be making the MJ and Dakota wiring harnesses play nice and physically shoehorning it into the MJ engine bay. It would be a very tight fit.

This is a great chart that I have used. Does most of the legwork for you. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Yea real expensive lol.

The LS L33 5.3 engine and a used LS1 manifold turned up today also..... This is madness in action lol "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."

Got the bed painted this week and the hood is almost fitted. That was not easy. The mold is not the finest, but the guys made it work. Bed has still got to be cut and polished. Rest of the truck getting painted next week. What do y'all think of the color?

Always liked JCR's stuff. Looking good!!

Correct, the studs were part of the brace, which would have been on top of the floorpan, hence the holes in the pan. The studs went through the pan and the chassis rail. You can see the holes in the chassis rails in the pic below.

Originally they were part of the cab floor reinforcement. Looks like you cut around them when you took the floor out. I would leave them alone and cut holes in the floor pan to clearance them.

Next project is wiring. I had a NOS wiring harness from a 1992 which I bought on ebay a few years ago. This is going to be combined with an LS harness to form an OEM looking harness. I will be stripping out all the engine control wiring, injectors, sensors, alternator, cruise control, and AC circuits as well as the transmission controller wiring and adding a custom harness for an LS all integrated into the Jeep Power Distribution center. The Jeep PCM will go. The GM PCM will be mounted under the dash out of the way. This is a monster project as I am having to trace each wire. I don't trust the factory Service manual color coding. No room for error here. It has to be 100% right. I will be keeping the wiring for the lights, power to the GM PCM, AC fan relay, AC relay, Starter relay, Fuel pump relay, Fog lamp relay, Auto shutdown (Maybe), Speed sensor, and all the wiring that goes through the firewall to support the Heating and AC and instrument panel. I will also use the PDC fuses such as Engine Control, Alternator, Ignition, Fog lamps, Head lights etc. It is time consuming but I think the end result will be a neat OEM look to the wiring. Kinda scary how much wire in the harness is too long and was bundled inside the harness. Probably going to strip about 50% of the wires out and shorten some. The LS harness will control Injectors, sensors, Alternator, AC, Tach signal and Cruise Control. Using drive by cable which makes the LS harness a bit simpler. Wish me luck lol.

So I got the neoprene from McMaster and made a new gasket for the fan. Very easy stuff to work with.

Did you check the pressure switch on the drier? If that isn't working the compressor won't start.

If you have a post 1997 then they are $5 they might fit pre 97. https://www.quadratec.com/products/918886_94.htm

These are a couple of pictures of the seal on my 1991. It looks a bit different to the Mopar kit, but it might work.

I used the following pieces:- 86225K53- Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1/4" $13.98 86225K57 - Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1" $27.39 8647K701 - Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Sheet Soft, 1-1/4" Thick, 42" Wide, 1 ft. Length $40.78 I didn't use the kit you are talking about because I didn't know it existed!! and it is for a 1997 onwards. I don't know if the seal is the same. If it is then I missed out on a much easier fix. You still need the Poly to fix all the other seals and internal foam.

Decided to tackle the heater box over the weekend. What a nightmare. It needed all new foam inside and new gaskets. So hard to cut foam straight, not pretty but does the job.!! Had to scrape off all the interior foam as it was all crumbling and nasty. Purchased self adhesive foam sheets from Mcmaster-Carr (great company) and got to work. It turned out pretty well. I also replaced the heater core and evaporator, plus the temp control and heat sensors. Just waiting on neoprene to replace the fan motor seal. The polyethylene sheet is too soft to make a good seal. The fan seal is critical in stopping water getting into the cab. It is what caused the passenger floor issues on mine. Waiting on a new fan motor. The old one was rough.

I am looking for the under dash wiring harness for a 1991 2.5 or 4.0 HO Comanche. PM me if you can help.

Wrapped in vinyl and glued down and heated to get it nice and tight. It is being done at a local restoration shop. Guy is doing it as a favor, he is into much more exotic projects normally than a lowly old Comanche. They are just doing the body, paint, installing the PRP seats and the dash. I am doing everything else myself. I will be getting it back in pieces!! My bodywork skills are just not that good and I will be keeping this truck for a long time so want it doing right. It is tricky in the Texas heat to keep paint on!!