summerinmaine

Degree? Don't you mean Foot Pound (or Newton Meter :D)?

SBC = Small Block Chevy (?)

IIRC recording mileage at title transfer, and other times in a vehicle's life, is under a federal mandate. Here's what Kalifornistan has to say: YMMV. :brows:

On my old 4WD, I had a hood-mounted spare, kind of like the old Land Rover, as well as the rear mount. Don't know if you could get away with it these days. :dunno:

Thanks for the write-up. Bumper looks great. If you think about doing any more, keep me in mind.

Do you really need to re-weld to make it secure? Wouldn't bolts do the job. I used this link to guide me through my recent seat replacement, but fortunately didn't need to modify the brackets at all.

Yep. Indeed you do.

Different vehicle (4Runner) but with the same symptoms (and the fact that I could shift into neutral and keep the revs up to prevent it dying), the IAC needed cleaning. Good luck!

I agree with the posts that suggest you find the problem and fix it right. But . . . if you want to do a kill switch, you don't need to interrupt the battery circuit. All my bikes have kill switches (well, at least six of them do), and they just install a switch that cuts off power to the coil. I imagine there's a similar point in the MJ ignition circuit that you could wire, and it would leave power to clock, radio, etc.

I think it looks good on yours (the army look helps). I don't think I'd put one on mine, but if it had one, I don't think I'd take it off.

I discussed airlifts with the mechanic I use, and his take is that they're better suited for a rig that spends most of its time on pavement or on groomed dirt roads. Is that your experience? My rig needs some fairly serious off-road capability, hence the lift and my decision to go with helper springs..

Update: Among the options available (considering money but more importantly limited time before I head South) decision was made to fit some helper springs. The sag is gone (at least temporarily) and I'll know more about the ride and load carrying capability after next week. Thanks for all the great advice.

You mean the dual diaphragm from the XJ? If so, I got one, and it's on my list. But so far, brake power and stopping distince has been fine.

I haven't measured, since the front currently doesn't have the flares mounted, but I'll check that before I make any decisions. Thanks. You don't need the flares. You can measure by the "offocial" method: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... =9&t=11693 Thanks! I'll give that a look.

We have them in stock and would ship same if ordered by 3PM. Unfortunately it looks like ground shipping would put you at Monday to Del Mar, CA from us. If they would of left today you'd of had them by Friday.... :grrrr: Bugger! But the mechanic I'm working with on the big stuff will be closed on Friday anyway. The weeked is devoted to the seat replacement, tuning and the electronic control center wiring that I'm doing myself. Then I leave late Monday or early Tuesday. Well, we'll make do, then I'll touch base in a couple weeks. Would your HD springs handle the camper as a regular load?

I haven't measured, since the front currently doesn't have the flares mounted, but I'll check that before I make any decisions. Thanks.

If I could get them out here in 2-3 days, before the weekend, then I'd do it. But since that won't happen, I'll probably just do an AAL temporarily, then make the change as part of the total overhaul I have in mind for the next few months. The concept of load vs. lift is one I should have thought of, but it was nice to be reminded that they are separate issues, and require different solutions.

I was thinking about it actually... :brows: Most are contained in one or the other of the Cherokee/Comanche mod books, right?

Thanks. I was thinking the same thing. I do need some lift, but not necessarily 4" so I may consider a set of those, and then correct the ride height in the front if needed.

Thanks for all the replies! Since my to-do list is pretty long before the Baja1000, I'll probably just rely on a hose clamp (I usually carry 4-6 of them) and plan on that temporary fix if things go south. Then I have until early March to re-gear (4.11 or 4.56), replace axles, and do all the other fun things.

The PO had installed a 4" lift (he said Total Control lift with Rusty's rear springs). As you see from my avatar, I carry a small camper that weighs about 1000# and the weight is pretty evenly distributed from side to side. I figure I'm running the equivalent of the Metric Tonne package, so the weight shouldn't be too much, right? I had a set of ProComp M/Ts mounted yesterday, and saw that the driver's side rear was setting noticeably lower than the passenger side (perhaps as much as 2" droop; I had noticed it before, but the new tires caused it to appear more dramatic since they fill the wheel wells better). My first thought was that the spring had sagged, though I haven't been able to crawl under and measure yet (I plan to run a string between the center of the eyes, and measure to the bottom of the leaf pack). I'm going to throw it on a lift and check things out, but assuming it is the spring, is it worthwhile (at least temporarily) to pull the spring and have it re-arched? Any experience with this procedure (cost, longevity, downsides)? Any other ideas for a quick fix while I decide on a suitable replacement (Add A Leaf, etc.)? I've heard all the negatives about Rusty products, but like I said, it was the PO's doing. Any recommendations for better springs that maintain ~4" lift? Is there anything else that might cause the noticeable droop? Unless something's busted, I can't think of what else might cause it.

I've heard of this technique in case the vacuum fails, and so it occurs to me that I should carry a few washers as a back-up when I'm down in Baja. Anyone know what size washers I should carry, and how many? Anything else work besides washers? I'm sure I could figure it out by pulling the housing, but it would be nice not to have to do that until necessary. Thanks

I'm getting set up to head for the Baja1000 next week (work pit crews). I'll be gone a week or more, and that's why my MJ is a work in progress being set up as a self-contained camping/tracking/mobile electronics vehicle. A truck like that in the video bears only a superficial relationship to a stock rig, and the $150K estimate posted above could be less than 1/2 of the reality. Our TT ran about $450K just for the build (about 850bhp currently). And probably costs 30-50K to rebuild after each race (assuming we don't break anything serious :brows: ). We burn about $1K in fuel alone for a distance event. Pure adrenaline!

And my daughter just paid $3000 for a 1999 4.0L Auto with 145K in pristine condition. It is a 4WD, right?

Sounds as good as or better than "normal" to me. If you're worried about the high end, have you tried a lighter grade oil (and a better filter of course)?