summerinmaine

Sounds like the heater operation is responding to engine vacuum. Isn't the switch vacuum controlled?

Sounds like the heater operation is responding to engine vacuum. Isn't the switch vacuum controlled?

Supposed to preserve the inside of the tire, by eliminating the reactive O2, among other benefits. more consistent pressure, less dryrot etc., but i've read the nitrogen costs next to nothing and it's a huge moneymaker for those that charge for it. some places don't charge for it if you buy tires from them, even if you need to refill later on etc. i think the same critic said they understood charging something for the service, but that it shouldn't be more than $2-3/tire and anything much more than that he felt the cost far outweighed the benefits And even at that, you have to wonder how many tires are retired from use due to dry rot, rather than worn out treads or other structural problems? I've even heard the claim that N2-filled tires are safer, cause they don't have O2 to burn in case of a fire! Given the ready supply of O2 in the atmosphere, the last thing I'm gonna worry about in case of a fire is whether my tires will be supplying any of the O2. :yes:

Nice! :clapping:

So do they show the dash panel in the brochure?

Supposed to preserve the inside of the tire, by eliminating the reactive O2, among other benefits.

Sorry to hear Brent. Hope you land on you feet real soon.

Ditto.

And mine won't include disposals, as the rims currently have a set of BFG Long Trail Radial tires. Good tread, but getting old and so I'm swapping for fresh ProComps. I'll try to sell the BFGs on CL. Now that I think of it, I should have said "cost to dismount/mount/balance." :D

I've heard of that, but never tried it. I guess you need to guesstimate the amount of beads per tire, as a badly out-of-balance tire would need more, right? Can't have too many, but you might have too few?

Only if it's me selling to a CC member... :brows: :cheers: Cool. How much to mount and balance my tires then? Two-way shipping is on you, of course. :D :clapping: :rotf:

Understood. But at least you don't call yourselves "Discount Dealership" right? :D

That seems more reasonable. I'll check out one of the big box stores.

I've got a set of ProComps that I want on my rig. Discount Tire quoted me ~$21 each, $85 total. Does this seem reasonable? Any other chain store/SD local place to try? Anyone ever try Costco? I could mount myself, but balancing? Maybe I should mount them by hand, and then just drive the rig over for balancing.

Are they still having Comanche recalls? :brows:

Not so far as I know. The timing is determined by the ECU responding to the CPS, and the ECU decides when to inject fuel, how much fuel to inject, when and how much spark to be at the optimum efficiency, so the distributor fits into position maintained by dowel pins and has nothing to do with timing.

Timing is not adjustable IIRC. So unless you did something wrong in the tune-up, your problem lies elsewhere. I just started to have a similar problem, so I'm going to replace the ignition bits, and probably the Cat as well.

Or just drill a drain hole in the floor, and be done with it! Worked for me. :brows:

Looks like the Graf Zeppelin, mein Herr! BTW Anyone know the difference between the Graf Zeppelin and Rush Limbaugh? One's a flaming Nazi gasbag. The other is just a dirigible. :brows:

Perhaps so. I've just never seen a similar mounting style before. Guess I'll just go look for myself.

Really? My truck in 4WD has no problem turning corners.

Thanks! So do the replacement units fit onto the arm the same way that stock units fit? The pin through from a 90 degree angle? BTW I'll probably stick with stock 18" blades, as I don't have to worry about snow and ice lifting the blade. :brows:

I searched, but did not find . . . I'm getting ready to replace my wiper blades. Should I just replace the blade, or must I replace the entire assembly on the end of the wiper arm?

One of my NAXJA buddies just bought that MJ. :D that would be me going down to change the master cyl on it and drive it home today! Cool. Welcome to the Club! :cheers:

I've just used this stuff called "Lime-Away" or some such. It dissolves the mineral deposits without scratching.