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summerinmaine

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Everything posted by summerinmaine

  1. Yep. Felt it down here in SD. I'm on the 16th floor and the building swayed for @10 seconds. Only a moderate quake, so no big deal.
  2. I have a mini camper, so the C/G on my rig is a bit higher than stock. With all the Baja bashing I do, I've had my sway bar disconnect itself twice. Bolts just vibrate out. Each time, the handling turned so scary, that I had to stop and figure out a temporary fix. For my purposes, I can't imagine running without a swaybar.
  3. Thanks. That's more than I would have thought.
  4. Just posted them up on CL with the pic I posted here, and got a reply within one hour. Guy wanted to buy the entire MJ however. :D
  5. yeah but they're sooo pretty. They are in pretty good shape . . . well, this one did get a little harsh treatment last time I was in Baja:
  6. The scrap yards around here aren't a very desirable option on either end of a transaction. They have taken the concept of "buy cheap, sell dear" to an extreme. I'll put 'em up on CL this weekend, and see what happens.
  7. I have left-over stock rims, as seen here: and will try to sell them locally (to avoid charging someone for shipping). Any thoughts on what I should expect to get? No serious blemishes, but well-used. There are tires on them, but not worth much.
  8. So if the sender develops an open circuit (i.e. infinite resistance) then the gauge should peg to the max position and stay there, right? This is what mine does. Or should it return to zero psi with the ignition off? The PO installed an aftermarket unit (Sun IIRC) that feeds oil to the gauge, but I'm wondering why he did that rather than simply fix the stock set-up. :dunno:
  9. Time to hijack the thread :brows: Will you please post some pics of the pair of Elans. I'm a fan of Lotus and would like to see them. Thanks, and now back to your regularly scheduled thread. Mike They're both project cars (one much more so than the other) and I don't have great pics, but the 66 Elan S2 S/E looks like this: And you can kinda see the Tii in the background of this pic:
  10. My 87 has them on the rear of the box.
  11. Then that suggests that the older ECUs do not have a road speed component to their calculations, right? So going back to my original point, there would be no need to recalibrate the speedo on the older vehicles if you're happy using a GPS as an alternative.
  12. Is that the case with the older speedos? Not sure how a cable driven speedo would produce such a signal. I'm still pretty new to the whole MJ thing. :doh: You're right, of course. My theory remains valid, the ECU is still being folled regarding actual road speed. But you are correct, it's the CPS that tells the older 4.0L what the speed is, not a direct speedo gear output. So then, if I understand correctly, once you've changed gearing or tire size on the older vehicles, there's no way to "recalibrate" so that the ECU is getting proper road speed info, right? The ECU is making "assumptions" of road speed based on the original specs of engine speed, stock gearing, and stock final drive?
  13. Since stereo and lift were done before I bought it, my first was rims/tires. Exhaust is next.
  14. Well I have a GPS anyway, so that's not really my issue. :brows: Is that the case with the older speedos? Not sure how a cable driven speedo would produce such a signal. I'm still pretty new to the whole MJ thing.
  15. Rust? What is this rust of which you speak? :brows: One of the many great things about living in Kalifornistan. We get a bit of surface corrosion from living on the ocean, but it's rarely structural.
  16. So perhaps I'm just too used to dealing with more esoteric vehicles? I have, in addition to the Tii, two mid-60s Lotus Elans, and a whole bunch of vintage motorcycles. Maybe I need to re-calibrate my thinking when it comes to my MJ? :D
  17. I posted a similar thought on a thread in the Classifieds, but got curious about peoples' thoughts here: Am I the only one that ignores the re-calibration of the speedo after re-gearing; resizing tires, etc., and just uses a GPS instead? I first settled on this when I altered a number of factors on my 2002Tii, and didn't want to pay the big bux for the unobtanium BMW parts. Maybe it only makes sense if, like me, 90+ % of your MJ miles are off-road, but I still do it with my Tii. Any decent GPS would work fine, and be a lot cheaper than speedo work.
  18. Sorry to have misunderstood you. Your added comments made it look like you took it seriously. But no one could be that stupid, right?
  19. Sigh. Do you actually believe EVERYTHING you read on the InterWeb? :nuts: This crap has been refuted years ago. :brows: Try http://www.snopes.com/legal/lawsuits.asp
  20. That sounds like it will work. I have 31/10.5 tires on 15X8 Jeep rims with ~5" backspacing. Four inch BS is fairly common on aftermarket rims IIRC. One important point: Factory BS was ~5" and with stock tires that left >1" of clearance between the sidewall of the tire and the frame rail. Wider tires on factory rims might foul. You might want to measure your own clearance and figure out what works best, as you can always lift/cut to deal with outside clearance issues, but tire sidewall rubbing on frame or leaf spring in rear or LCA in front is not so easily addressed (though wheel spacers are a possible cure).
  21. I've often thought that would be a good idea.
  22. So, for a 265/75/15 tire the calculation for the diameter is: 10.43 X 0.75 = 7.82 (side wall height) 15 + (2 X 7.82) = 30.64" diameter, right? That's pretty close to the 30.5 that I measured for my nominal 31" tire. Or am I screwing up my calculations somewhere?
  23. It's a California truck, so there's no rust or corrosion evident. I've looked at the "tee" and its connections to the cable, and everything looks solid. I'll probably lube the cable and the pivot well, so it doesn't bind up. But I'll probably still look to keep the weight as low as possible, just as a precaution. I'll do the calculations and figure out what profile tire would approximate a 31" tire (according to my measurements, more like 30.5" on a 15X8 rim). Just guessing that a 265/75/15 should be about 30.75" in diameter, right? Then I need to figure whether that will actually reduce the weight all that much.
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