Bounty Hunter

Yes, they're reliable. I just bought a similar truck but an '89 and I've been driving the wheels off of it, at around 24mpg.

It's not always there, but you should always put the correct number range in the 6 o'clock position in the hole.

I would use the 'View new posts' link instead, and if needed you can click the link to 'mark forums read' if it doesn't do it automatically for you.

Both the '89 and the '94 Speedos are driven by the speed sensor in the tailshaft of the transfer case. The '89 is mechanical (cable spins) and the '94 is electronic (all wires). If you have the complete '94 setup, it's likely something as simple as correctly clocking the speed sensor in the tailshaft in order for the speedo gear to contact the mainshaft in the transfer case.

8.8 is going to be your best bet for a limited slip, and not all that much more work than installing any other axle SOA. It can be found in common Jeep gear ratios like 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10.

It's a LOT simpler than that writeup. Remove the disconnect from the axle (4 bolts), slide the collar over to the locked position, then install the disconnect upside down. The fork will now hold the collar in the locked position. Easy peasy :smart:

I'd ask some local or state LE before AAA.

It's just you, NEVER attach a strap to an axle on the recovery rig. It's a good way to have said axle part with the rest of the jeep.

Bad battery.

You live near there? That's one of my favorite wheelin spots, for my Jeep and my quad. Usually there in my YJ, will take the MJ down when it's done.

Works great with this mounted up front:

The rear driveshaft doesn't power the pump, the mainshaft inside the case does. But it's all for nothing if there's no SYE or cover/plug to prevent the fluid from leaking out the tailhousing.

Most states have a 5 or 10 day temp tag you can purchase to get you back home legally.

Why we use recovery straps WITHOUT hooks:

Simply remove the disconnect from the axle, engage the shift collar, and reinstall the disconnect upside down. It holds the collar engaged perfectly, almost as if it was designed for this as a bypass measure LOL. You can do it in a pinch if the disconnect stops working, or flip it and leave it. I run a manual disconnect so I can run a front spool. Did it in my d30 and purposely installed a disconnect d44 for this option.

You do realize you could have easily installed the CAD upside down and it would have held the collar in the locked position? Works great.

Where is this 'module'? I just swapped in a tilt column with intermittent wipers for my non-tilt standard wipers column. I don't have any intermittent control but hi and low work, what do I need to add?

What do you mean by 'toyed' with them? Are you asking about the offset balljoints used to correct camber problems?

You only use ABC for adjusting the TPS.

Saw it on my 2.5L, is it really necessary?

Replacing the CAD with a one-piece axleshaft is common, and you will likely not see any decrease in mileage. You can get the same effect by removing the disconnect housing and installing it upside down, so it holds the shift collar engaged. A lot less work and it will always be locked together. I wouldn't swap out a working transfer case just to omit the vacuum switch. You can still pull all the vacuum hoses relating to the CAD, and either leave the vacuum switch attached to the transfer case or remove it and find a suitable plug. You don't have to cap the vacuum switch either, nothing can get into the transfer case through the open vacuum ports.

Put the rear axle on jackstands and remove the rear tires. Put the truck in drive and see of the wheel flange wobbles. If so, it's not that difficult to replace the axleshaft.

No, that's not wrong. It's part of the CCV system and allows the crankcase vacuum to suck fresh air from the airbox. The other elbow in the valve cover should go to manifold vacuum and suck crankcase fumes into the intake to be burnt. The elbow to the airbox should suck into the valve cover if indicating everything is working properly.

You own a jeep, you should most definitely have a complete set of torx sockets. It shouldn't cause it to run rough, maybe a high idle. You should also check out a FSM for the 4.0L Renix and learn which sensors the computer uses to control the engine at idle, then make sure they're all in working order.