TNT

Welcome back. :cheers: I'm new here, but I have read a bunch of your posts while searching the site like crazy. I'm glad you are getting better, I was out of the loop for a while a couple of years ago because of health reasons and it sucks. I wish you the best of luck with your heath issues and hope to see you around on the site. :cheers:

Got it registered now and passed the emission test too. They had to do an idle test because they said the tires are too big.... Funny they were able to test my XJ with the same tires... He was crooked on the rollers and couldn't test it because the limited slip was making it walk back and forth. It was funny to watch. :brows: I replaced a trashed right front wheel bearing so now my front end noise is gone. I also replaced the broken anti-rattle hardware. I was looking at the brakes and found out the two lines to the rear are hooked up to a tee. The brake hose also hooks up to the tee. :eek: I'll swap my dual diaphram '95 booster, proportioning valve, lines and braided hoses on to fix it for good. The rear brake hardware needs to be replaced because the adjusters are seized and the cables are broken. :roll: I also put the radiator from my '95 XJ into my '94 XJ. Now I'm using the '94 XJ as a daily driver again. :D I'll start to part it out after all the '95 XJ's parts are swapped into the MJ. I started to pull more parts of the '95 so I can yank the engine and trans for the MJ. 8)

It would make a wicked MJ. Around me are mainly county roads with a 55mph max speed. Lots of tight twisty roads with 25mph-35mph rated turns. It would be sweet. :brows: The more I think about it the the more I think an AW-4 would be the way to go with some 295/35zr19's. :chillin: 110mph is just about perfect. With the 60 foot time it should run 110mph would be a good trap speed. 4.56 gears would be ok too. Living life a 1/4 mile at a time A better combo would be 4.10 frt gears with 275/35ZR19 tires and 4.88 rear gears with 305/40ZR22 tires. This would have a top speed of 130mph with 2500rpm at 65mph. That would be a 26.5"x10.9" front tire and a 31.5"x12.4" rear tire. Now that would be wicked

Now thats dragging rail. :cheers:

I'd keep your eye out on craigslist. It seems you can always find someone that just put new tires on before a lift and then go to bigger tires. Here's one as an example. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/447939688.html I know you don't need the rims, but sell them or use them on one of your other projects. Far as the what is better, BFG or Goodyear, I think both are good tires for long wear and both perform good to which they were designed. If I had to choose and they were the exact same price, I'd go with the BFG's. Just my .02. :cheers: Pat, Those look like a pretty good deal, I would probably work out a trade for the rims. I like BFG's in the snow and they wear great. I have a brand new 30" GSA you could use for a spare.

It sounds like you have a short to ground. You could always run a new wire from the fuse box and cut the old one off.

not a new one, but I may have a set of them if TNT doesn't take them with the rest of the interior. I'll have to compare them to my XJ ones when you get them out. If they are the same I'll use my XJ ones. Mine are the new style and different then my 94 XJ ones so I have no idea if the will interchange. Let me know when you get them out so I can compare them right away.

50mph would be 2400rpm :nuts: 245/40-18's with 4.88 gears and a NV3550 would have a top speed of 110mph. And it would launch hard. The power would be great.

In a street truck I would start with a SWB MJ and add the following: ZJ upcountry coils with 1 coil removed The largest swaybar that an XJ uses 4.0HO stroker built and camed NP3500 NP242 transfercase Rear D44 with a detroit geared 4.88 ZJ rear discs In cab adjustable proportioning valve Front non-disconect D30 with a true track geared 4.88 WJ front knuckles and brakes Add a rear swaybar Custom stiff rear springs built for proper ride hieght Bilstein 7100 shocks 285/40ZR18 BFG KDW tires 18x10" forged alumium rims I could go on and on

My 31" BFG AT KO's have 65,000 miles on them and will last an easy 10,000 miles more. They are great tires for a DD and are like the energizer bunny wear wise. 8)

Cocroft has 2 sets of tires that are like new in about the size you are looking for. 1 set is MTR's and the other set are an off brand mud tires that look like BFG's but I don't remember the brand.

That would be a extra thick bedmat made of rubber, not a drop in plastic bed liner. I have installed about 100 drop in over/under the rail plastic bedliners over the years and none of them were even close to 120 pounds.

So how much does the bed liner weigh? There is no way it ways as much as 4 wheels and tires... I would run the 16" Icons with 225/70/R16LT BFG AT KO's with 3 ply sidewalls. They are great looking and will work great. What gear do you have? They would be great with 3.55 gears and a light foot. I was able to get 20mpg with 3.55 gears and 33x10.5x15 BFG AT KO's with my XJ on the highway with about 1100 pounds of weight inside of it.

200 pounds for a bedliner??? More like 40-60 pounds. I think you need a accuate scale so you can post accuate weights.

As long as it does not go away before out RUBI gets here it will. Just make sure you read the fine print and follow the maintance schedule. BTW Good choice :cheers:

I work at an International dealer and all of the techs say the VT-365(6.0) is junk. Think of an early GM diesel and they are about equal in quality... They can't be resleeved like a comercial diesel, if the boost gets turned up the head bolts stretch and the head gasket blows. They do this stock too.... We have seen 6 blown engines and a ton of head gasket fail. They all have turbo issues too. Stay far away.... The 7.3 is a real medium duty comercial diesel for use up to about 30,000 pound GVW load constantly. It's a 1,000,000 mile plus motor. It uses wet sleeves that can be replaced and are way overbuilt strength wise.

Or the drive shaft is running at an excessive angle for the joints. I have 50,000 miles on a set of sealed ones that operate at a 14 degree angle on level ground. They are still tight and vib free. This shaft had 15,000 miles of use with 33" tires and 3.55 gears, the rest is with 31" tires. I drive it like I stole it for the most part...

The sealed ones are stronger because they aren't cross drilled with grease passages.

That would be a fun toy :D

It's a great engine that can safely double it's torque output without worrying about strength. Just keep the exhaust temps in check. We have a tech at work with one that dynoed at 745 foot pounds of torque a few years ago. He pulls at the local county fairs with it and ran a 12.95 in the quarter mile last year. He still gets about 18mpg yet too.

Both of my XJ's have 20 gallon tanks. I plan on mounting it behind the cab when I swap in my 4.0HO motor. I plan on using my XJ skid plate as the mount and to protect it from the driveshaft. So I'll be selling my MJ skid plate. I thought my MJ had a 18 gallon tank so I would be gainning a couple of gallons of fuel. I did get 21 gallons in my 95 XJ once after cleaning the suger out of the tank... :roll: That was a prank played by some tenants at an apartment I used to manage. :nuts: Payback was quite enjoyable. Don't mess with a techs ride, we know all the tricks. :D

Accuracy. It's the differance between an idiot light and a quality gauge. A narrow band is just good for a pretty light show. A wideband tells you what you need to know. A dyno uses a wideband to tune with, so could you.

Winters not that close. We could lift it and have bumpers on it before snow comes.

Be sure you buy a wideband one.

I very much want that..problem is idk how much $$$ I can spend, nor do I know if this thing will end up as a serious offroader yet...? When you stop by we can figure out a package deal. You're not wheeling your 3800, so the XJ is the next best thing. :brows: