mfpdm

Yeah the 2.5 pump has a rubber spacer/bushing on the bottom bracket that has to come out for the 4.0 to fit. If ya come down send me a list of parts you want to get rid of or need and I'll do the same. :cheers:

Yep, the brackets are pretty much the same as far as just the pump goes. The 4.0 pump on the upper mount has a tab that fits into the XJ unit. I just flatten it out and made sure I torqued it down good on the MJ unit. I was just going to leave the old one but there is a big difference in pump pressures. 13 psi for 4cyl TBI and 23 psi for the fuel injected 4.0. (I think those numbers are right) :cheers:

:mad: Well here's the deal, I bought the drop brackets off their ebay listing which stated they have 84 availible. They also stated at the bottom that it could take up to 20 business days to ship. I figured that maybe that was just a cut and paste from their other auctions where they get the items right from the manufactors. Seeing how they make the drop brackets, and claimed 84 availible, I figured they would of shipped them in a couple of days. I emailed them to ask if it had been shipped and for a tracking number and the reply back was that the auction clearly stated 20 business days. :roll: How hard is it to take it off the shelf, put it in the box, put a shipping label on it and call for UPS pickup. I'm starting to think this is a one man operation working out of his parents garage. Don't understand this kind of business practice of not trying your best to satisfy the customers. Looking at their feedback, they are hit and miss and unfortunitly, I'm on the miss list. I'll step down now. Oh and Pat, why did you have to hit me soooo many times. J/K. I guess I get a little anal about doing things sometimes and expect too much of myself. :brows: Thanks again for the great comments. :cheers:

Well I'm still waiting on the drop brackets from Rocky Road Outfitters :headpop: I doubt I'll ever order from them again. I finally got around to finishing the gas tank. First I had to swap the 4 banger fuel pump with the 4.0's Here it is all back together with a new foot screen. Painted the tank semi-gloss black and put everything back in it. Cleaned up the plastic skid and painted the straps. Put it back where it belongs. also got the bed undercoated as you can tell from the tank pic's. A lot better than the earlier pic's. Stubbled across the blow outs in the box with some of the tank parts so I cleaned them up and put them in. I know it's not much, but I guess everything I get done gets me a little closer. :cheers:

You could just send it to me along with the steering wheel and I'll paint it for you. :brows: It would probably get lost in the mail on the return trip though. wink wink I think the syringe idea is the best. Next time I come across something I have to do like that, I'm going to try it. Thanks LEAD for the tip. :cheers:

That looks really Sweet! :cheers:

What a great find and welcome to the club. :cheers:

Welcome to the club. :cheers: Thanks for your service. :cheers:

Dang Pat, you just fixed that side. I think maybe the 3800 is trying to tell you something. Glad no one got hurt. Hopefully it will all work out. :cheers:

Well lets see if I remember everything seeing how I had mine off and on a half a dozen times. Drop fuel tank and disconnect fuel pump wiring harness from bed. Remove the e-brake cables. Either unbolt the bracket (easiest) or pull the cables from the bracket. Unbolt the spare tire carrier from the cross member or just remove it all together (best) Disconnect tail light wiring harness from the bed and tail lights. There's eight bolts/nuts to remove from the frame, one on each of the four perches in the front of the bed, two on the cross member and two at the rear. Lift bed straight up off frame. Two people can do it by grabbing it at the wheel well however three or four is better. I think I got everything. Remove tailgate too before you lift it up to reduce weight. :cheers:

5K is the starting price not the reserve. I'll bet his reserve is anywhere between 8-10k. Very nice but what pisses me off is this statement, I don't care what dealership you go to, they are not going to give you but a few hundred at best over book. So he's trying to make bank on maybe a $1500-$2000 investment. True I'd try to flip it for a good penny but I wouldn't say doubling or tripling my money is a SLIGHT MARGIN. Actually, I lied. I would never sell it. Especially if I got it at the bargin he did.

There are two different plugs for the vanity lights. One has a 4 pin connector and the other has a 2 pin connector. My MJ one has the 2 pin and the XJ one has the 4 pin. I believe this may depend on if both visors have the vanity lamps or not.

That is one Bad@ss MJ. Super work. :cheers:

After seeing a couple on ebay I gave it some thought. I finally decided that because of the flat front of the MJ, the curve of the JK bumper would not flow well. Would still like to be able to hold one up to it and see for sure. :cheers:

So after looking through the wiring diagrams for the interior, here is what I came up with. The big plug is indeed the courtesy lamp. Pink and black runs to all interior lighting. I have an 88 MJ harness and a 89 XJ harness and the plugs are the same with the same colors. Just the number of wires going into the back of the plug are different. The small plug which should be Violet (purple) with a orange stripe and a black wire, goes to the vanity mirror lights. If you had that option, it would plug into the wires that run up the passenger side a-pillar to the vanity lamps on the sun visor. :cheers:

:agree: I had the same problem with the one on the TJ. Just tell her to give herself extra distance when driving and parking. After a bit she will be able to judge the distance. Or, trade them for a set of low profile ones like on the rollbar of the Tomb Raider edition TJ. They set high enough to see but won't look like bug eyes. :cheers:

Nice find and welcome to the Club. :cheers: Really like the rollpan on the back.

Oh man do I miss those. Adalberto's in San Diego. Great for the mid night snack. :D Oh yea and lunch, half a bag of Blazin Buffalo Ranch Doritos and a cup of noodles. :cheers:

Not saying I believe everything on the old web, but this one on JP's site claims to be an 87. Couple more I've stumble across. :cheers:

Thanks for the pic. :cheers: I read the can and it didn't say anything about going over primer. Pretty limited info and looks just like the directions on all the other rustoleum that I have. :dunno: Think I'll just go with another color. Fire Engine RED. j/k :D :cheers:

I got that for the tank but at the last minute today change my mind. Do you have any pic's of the tank with it on? And will it go over primer? Seeing how I I've primed it already today. :cheers:

Thanks for the help. Just the answer I was looking for. I was thinking aluminum because the only rust mine has is at the weld and pump ring. Just finished wiring so with the general concensus. Primer and paint. :thumbsup: :cheers:

What is the gas tank made of? I thought it was aluminum but if so how does it rust? Also has anyone painted the tank and what did you use? :cheers:

It drains on both ends. Each side has a gap that allows water to drain into the fender. Drivers side Passenger side The pinch seam maybe leaking. You would have to pull out the wiper motor to get at it. A good amount of silicone should take car of it. Pinch seam :cheers:

It took a couple of days before the light finally came on. :fool: I understand what he is after now and your totally correct. :D I agree with the suggestion to just use the engines vac system with the switch. Just grab the vacuum lines for axle and what would have been used for a 231 and put your switch in its place.(not littorally) :cheers: