mfpdm

Nice looking however after all that time and energy put into it, he still can't spell COMANCHE right. :nuts:

Well that eliminates the 4wd light. Mine has AC so I don't think it's that. I saw the EGR solenoid but couldn't narrow down the wire colors. So I think it's Californa emission stuff. Either way, it's not needed as several now have said that it's just hanging there. :cheers:

The 3M stuff I have pictured is heavy duty. It's for putting hedliners on so with as light weight as the foil is, I'm thinking you'll have to scrape it off before it falls off. Far as installing it in the door, I used two pieces. The first one covers from 1 inch below the upper body line to about an inch and a half before the bottom. The second piece covered about an inch below the window opening and butted up to the first piece. Then used the tape on the seams. Even with everything out of the door, its a bit tricky. Make sure you do a dry run fitting it in before you put the adhesive on. It will show where you may need to trim to get it to slide in without getting stuck. :brows: :cheers:

Check out the dark gray that VW has. That was our second choice and I think it was a little darker. Well back to the show. These doors are really starting to piss me off. Decided to pull the door checks and put the newer ones in and found more problems. This came out. No big deal, was replacing it anyway. But this sucks. What a design flaw. I've seen a lot like this but was hoping I would be spared. At least the passenger side was good. Will also have to replace the body side piece as well as you can see from the pic, the hole is wallowed out. So to fix the door, I took two pieces of flat stock, drilled some holes in it, and with bolts, sandwiched the door area in between to get it close to flat again. Was going to use the same pieces of flat stock to reinforce the hinge side however it's to thick to allow enough thread for the bolts. Well stopped again. I'll go to lowes and find something better. :roll:

Well I always love a challenge. Just spent about 40 minutes looking for this. Found it on my 86 2wd 2.5 but not on the harness for the 88 2wd 2.5. Looked in the many resources that I have and think I came up with it. It may be the 4wd indicator light switch connector. Which would explain why it is not connected. Or it may be one of the Californa emission things. I'm thinking the 4wd indicator. If someone with a 86 4wd 2.5 can look at theirs, they might be able to confirm or dis-spell this. :cheers:

Yeah, that's the ticket. Even though I like it, I think on an all black rig it may be pushing it a little. However it would totally rock on a white rig. :cheers:

Well it will be right at home on the stang. It's a Ford color. Dark Shadow Gray Metallic. It's a tad darker than the Chyco dark gray and looks better at night under the street lights. :D

I like it. :D Wanted to go that route but got over ruled. On a side note, I think it would look good if you could somehow attach some black mesh behind the grille to keep from seeing all the stuff behind it. And another side note, did the waggy's only have chrome? Would like to see what an all black one would look like. Anyway, keep going. Your doing great.

Well after looking at different products on the market, it just made since that all the sound deading material is basically a form of insulation. True it is constructed differently and more science is involved. I had read on a couple of other forums where some people have used a product called fire and ice, which is a type of underlayment used in roofing. That's how I ended up at Lowes to check it out. At about $60 a roll and the fact that it is a petroleum base product, I steered away from it. It smells like tarpaper as well. I then wondered the store the way most men do when shopping for something and came across what I used. Here's a link. At $26 for all I would need and the fact I can use it around the house, sold me on it. Far as moisture. I had the same concerns. The 3M adhesive I used is great stuff. I made sure I had as close to 100% coverage on the foil and as much as I could reach on the inside of the door before sticking it on and pressed the crap out of it to hopefully make it gap/air pocket free. The tape on the seams is added protection and seeing how it is meant for heating and ac ducts, it should hold up to heat and moisture. I will check it from time to time to see how it is holding up and post the results. Keeping the drain holes clear and the mod I did on the inner fender as well as newer gaskets/wipes on the window should help keep the moisture low too. Now I wouldn't use this on the floor, but on vertical surfaces and the roof above the headliner, it should hold up. Only time will tell. Also, even the professional stuff uses either a self adhesive tape or spray on stuff like I used so I guess they have the same chance as I do with the moisture getting behind it. :cheers:

Yep, just yank it. :D For best results, put on foot on the passenger side and one in the drivers side, stand straight up over the shifter, and yank as hard as you can. Once you regain consciousness, go get some ice for your nads. :eek: J/K :D I found it best to put the shifter in 1 and then pull it. Works really well in an XJ because you can get in the back seat, but does work just as good in the MJ. :cheers:

Don't know about the poop, but isn't that a long black console. If it wasn't all smashed it would be worth pulling. :cheers:

Nice. Might be worth it but trying to cut expenses on this build. Thanks for the link. Will consider if all else fails. :cheers:

I thought in my search I ran across a thread saying the "snake" (I like that term better than coil :D ) was an availible part but I thought it was for the manual ones. I may have mis-read it. Would be good to know if it is and what kind of price. How bout it TAZ, oh parts Guru. :bowdown: :popcorn:

Yeah, they stop making them, however I have a glass guy searching the country for one on a dusty shelf. :brows: Too late. I sold it to a CC member. ;) You can count on it and thanks. Hoorah :thumbsup: Well have been laid up recovering from surgery and can't do any real wrenching. Thought I'd put the doors back together and do a little part painting. Got the handles and vent cover done. Went to work on the doors. Pulled the regulators back out and figured I'd do a little sound deading. Looked at all the professional alternatives and didn't like the price, sooo, off to Lowes. Pick up some foil type insulation. It's about a 1/4 inch thick. Basically two pieces of foil with a piece of bubble wrap sandwiched in between. It provides a R4-6 rating, is fire retardant, is light weight and flexible, and a lot cheaper than the professional stuff. Should prevent some road noise and help with the speakers acoustics. Plus heating and cooling benefits. Used adhesive spray to install and aluminum duct tape for any joints. And here's the results. Since I had the regulators out, I figured I'd check the coils for the infamous rust. Yep, it's there. :headpop: Well that pretty much stopped the progress. It's off to the JY to find some better ones. I did manage to finally get the window trim painted from the 97+ mirror mod. It only took 3 different kinds of paint and 6 coats to get a finish I could live with however I won't put them on until the new regulators are in.

Well in the efforts of trying to get something done to the Wild build, I ran into another road block. The ever so common rusted out window regulator coil. So with all the searching on this subject, my options are, new to the tune of $150 a piece or JY XJ's. I probably hit the JY's but once I get some decent one's, what can be done to prevent this from happening again? I've thought of a couple of ideas like a water inhibitor grease or something of the kind. Also I think I'll replace the tube at the end with a larger one to allow better drainage and route the tube to a fixed hole. Anyone tried anything different that could help? :cheers:

I thought I sent you rear flares. Darn Vicodin has me all messed up. :chillin: Looking good though. :cheers:

24+ but fixing to retire. I am a Sonar Tech believe it or not, however it's not as fun as it was when the Russians were still playing. You'll get some good schools, but I'd look into the SeaBees as someone else mentioned earlier. If I had to do it over that's what I would have done. They get great training. Most of it out at Port Huneme, CA. Good luck to you and thank you for your service. :cheers:

PM me an email address and I'll send you about 16 megs of pics that I took before pulling the donor's 4.0 so I would know what is what. Should help ya some. I'd post them but if I cut them down from original size, they lose some of there usefulness. :cheers:

Doh. I forgot about those. That was the other difference in the 86, which I still need to address on mine. Darn getting old thing and forgetting stuff. :headpop: :cheers:

Just so were on the same sheet of music here, maybe I should have posted this link. Click here In pic two is the brackets that I think are in question. If you do not use these, the alignment of the front clip with the fenders will be left with just the four bolts that attaches the front clip. Not wise. This would allow the whole front to shift which could cause problems down the road. Those brackets set the fender to header alignment, not just hold the fender on. As for his being a 92 vs the 86, they have the same bolt count for the fenders. The only difference is the firewall/rad support. Thats the only reason I had to mod anything or else it would have been a direct swap. Not trying to mix apples and oranges or step on any toes, its just if your going to do the swap, might as well do it all. :cheers:

Yes you do. That is if you are reffering to the bracket that bolts the front of the fender to the firewall in front. I found this out after the fact and had to go back to the jy to get it. Here's a link that may help you out a little. Just remember that you shouldn't have to mod the header unless you putting it on an 86. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... hp?t=11270 :cheers:

Not to call you wrong on this, but wouldn't that be for a cv shaft and sye? The stock setup would need the tcase pinion to be parallel to the axle pinion. IE if the tcase had a 90 degree output, the axle would have a -90 degree input or if you use the whole 360 degrees, it would be at 270. Here's a link that explains it way better than I can. http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html :cheers:

Hhmmm, it has a V8 most likely and seeing a side saddle gas tank, I'm think something in the General Motors category. But hey I'm just guessing. I bet that scared the hell out of you when it went. :eek: :cheers:

Yeah, I watched the whole thing and was not to impressed with the empty words from Obama. I think the thing that was most irritating was the fact he showed no respect towards McCain as he constantly referred to him as John and one time called him Jim. McCain not once called him Barack or Obama, but always Senator Obama. Obama was definitely on the defense and would interrupt McCain trying to defend his position. Hearing Obama stammer and stutter proved what many have said, that without his teleprompter, he can't speak let alone express his plans or policies for leading the country. I'm not saying McCain is a lot better, but as many have said, it's the choice of the lesser of two evils. I'd rather have the one with more experience and is in touch with this nations military veterans. Plus, McCain owns two Jeeps. :cheers:

:agree: x2 You have some great skills. The inset light is awsome. Was considering doing that to the stock bumper with a set of fogs from a grand cherokee that I picked up. Keep the pic's coming. :cheers: