JeepcoMJ

that is in fact a glorified drop bracket kit. neat, but too expensive.

oh God! is that why the gosh damn mack i'm in the middle of working on @ work is so effing rusty!?!?!?

maybe make those thicker next time.

gjeep is 100% correct. no diagrams on my end, but they're fairly self-explanitory. and you don't need any of them to drive it, they will not effect your driving at all (if you remove white switch, plug hose)

thanks david! even that will eliminate all but a small handful of wires. saving me tons of time...and conveniently, C3 is the one that still had most of it's wires connected to the connector! Thanks, -Pat

What about the shiny red paint job? In my opinion they deserve a big bonus, because my Lincoln is amazing. You get what you pay for. is that like what you get when you buy a john deer? cause i've never owned a good one, and those things are expensive.... and like an expensive hooker, too? it doesn't matter how good she was when you still get aids...

buddy of mine got ran off the road a few weeks ago (or longer) on super bowl sunday by a drunk driver, and plowed into a huge snow bank, packing his engine bay full of snow. when I went to recover him, we hooked up to what seemed like a sway bar, but turned out to be a frozen engine computer harness. we can not find a complete 5 speed engine wiring harness, or I'd just replace the whole thing. he did find a stub of the harness that connects into the engine computer, though. I've got that mostly wired in, realized I didn't have enough to go off of since his pins literally pulled out of the ecu connectors. I even attempted to convert a complete automatic harness to work...but there are just too many extra wires from the auto trans to make it work. I've got it running, but not driving. so, back to the drawing board. is there anyone with alldatapro out there who can save me connector views of the 3 ecu harness connectors? this is all I need to make the 5 speed harness work...the connector views for all 3 connectors, and the associated wiring-to-pin color chart. I'd appreciate any help...I can do proper wiring no problem, but I'm not prepared to take the time to redesign what's already been designed. that is just too much. -Pat

Now yep only a hand full of MJ-20s out there, other 20s interchange ya know . . . Don't like it don't read it seem fairly simple, I've into plenty of threads I didn't care for so I simply quit reading them ;) Grin n bear it or unsub and get over it Mike or you can stop being a retard. "oh, i can't get the fill plug out...@#$% it, it can just run until it dies". seriously man. get a game plan, follow through on it, and have yourself a nice truck. otherwise, you'd do well to bail on the hobby, you'll drive yourself nuts.

the roll pan would look better with a positive flat, for one...for two... i work on semi trucks. fiberglass doesn't hold up to much of anything when it comes to collisions. and what do you mean "long side" and "short side" do you mean long bed and short bed? there is no side which is longer than the other, the only difference would be long bed and short bed...and that's only if you're going all the way from the front wheel well to the rear wheel well.

mike, you're dragging this out and embarassing yourself. you keep asking dumb questions, and you change your mind more than I do. you're looking for the rarest axle out of an mj, and bailing on the project just because you can't find it. woop-dee-doo. get a dana 44 with the gears you want, and do your swap, and stop being wishy-washy. this was a good idea on the first page...followed by 11 pages of nonsensical crap. no offense, but this is getting old.

there are two reason's you would need one. both involve keeping the drag link parallel to the track bar. both are associated with lifts 5" or bigger, and are not really necessary until you reach 6.5" A.) drop upper track bar bracket down. 2.) Over The Knuckle steering

bad idea. flux core will burn up sheet metal pretty quick, and leaves alot of slag. terrible on sheet metal, fine for thicker steel, but a 110v welder can only do so thick either way.

guys, I have a 110 mig at my house, and my brother will let us use his millermatic 220 that he picked up last fall. have an auto shield as well, so we could do it pretty quick. you pay for gas and wire, and any tips that get wrecked. rob, I can install a 220 outlet next to your electrical box, and we can make a 220 capable "extension cord" that you just roll out when you've got to weld.

nifty, but he can't weld worth a $#!&...

Rob and I bought that truck for $125. well over 200k miles, base model '91 high output. ran, but trans was blown. long story short, I saved the wiring harness, light tan mj specific interior, and mj specific parts. otherwise, it got scrapped. only '91 i've ever owned. and by far not the rustiest one i've bought.

removing the dash is a 2 hour job for a first timer. search "dash removal" in the search feature.

YES! this is bad, but it did end up making my day!

i know a bit about guns. same gun...

....ball muzzle loading black powder... sort of self explanitory there...

know how i know you're ghey? :D

seriously...anyone who likes that crap on their front end is a homo. a big fat homo. even worse are people who think it looks good.

@#$% you Sir Sam, @#$% you.

another note. I ran a 2wd ax5 in a 1986 comanche custom that originally had a 2.8l v6 in it....I swapped a '96 camaro buick 3800 that was mildly built with a .030 bore and a competition cam into it, because I wanted to keep the stock jeep bell housing. end result....5 blown ax5 transmissions and 5 dana 35 rear ends later, I finally ran out of parts in my parts pile to fix it. the transmissions lasted me 1000 miles, same as rear ends...now I've got a 2wd '96 camaro 3800 world class T5, and a '93 chevy s10 4x4 t5 that I need to combine to get a bolt-in world class 4x4 T5 trans. then it won't break. but basically I'm saying...that 3800 has less power and torque than a 302...and ate these transmissions for a light snack.

my trucks eat dana 35's for dinner. I used to have a pile of good dana 35's. one truck destroyed all 5 of them. they lasted me around 1000 miles, if that. just like ax5 manual transmissions...

put a ford transmission of your choice, designed to work with a 302 in it. no sense spending money on an adapter when you already need to look for a transmission now, and something is out there that will work with the motor you're going to put in. the proper transmission will cost you less than the wrong transmission+adapter...and either way, your driveshaft will have to be modified. I think I caught that it is a 2wd....you already need a new trans to convert to 4wd as well. so, just get what you want, that will work, with no adapters...and make it fit. oh, that's a factory roll bar btw. lots of snow on it, but those welds and the angle of the rear bars tell me it's factory. it's not actually a roll bar, either...it's thin, and won't help you much if you roll it. just there for looks.