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Everything posted by JeepcoMJ
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what, with a wrecked windshield? haha, hope the cops don't pull him over...
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those are some good battle wounds to show off...hope he keeps it and uses it!
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lol, thanks man. I want to keep it and make it stepside like i was sayin (I even have it drawn out on the box in permanent marker how i was gonna do it...) but I just can't justify having 5 comanches on the property...I have 3 now and my bro has one and dad has one. my mom would FLIP if she thought i was keeping the white one now :P I may want some of them fenders...you got a link on where to get them?
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man, I'd like that for a truggy too...
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Hey, if you're going flatbed, PM grismj86 because he could use your bed...his bedsides are good but the inside is shot. hopefully that's a good bump for ya alex!
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more photos before the fender flair, ZJ rims and better tires in the back, and a toolbox there too... zj rims with the ZJ rims on it need to paint the toolbox. and fix the rust on the truck...which isn't too terrible. oh, ALEX, that's a stock rear bumper :P. I put the aluminum cap on the tailgate too...i like that. passenger side took the fender flair off the beater jeep, and had to drill out the mounts for it...thank god for the drill press! it's mounted now, just gotta finish mounting the lower valence thing. 10-slot chrome grille happy it's a shortbed brand new tailpipe, and it still has the prop. valve new catalytic converter and glass pack too new downpipe look, a hole. lol, that's the only hole in the floor. Keep in mind that I payed $200 for the truck, and have not installed anything but the front fender flair and lower valance. everything else was already there :D it has probably 600 bucks worth of new parts between the new grill, headlight doors, front bumper, front right fender, and exhaust. Also it had a "engine knock" which is why i got it so cheap. there was NOTHING wrong with the engine, except that the spark plugs weren't long enough for the head, and they were all only finger tight. the torque converter was loose, that was most of the clanking. but the transmission was only being held onto the engine by 1 bolt! the top 2 walked out but were there, and the right side one was gone. the ones that hold the dust shield were lose, and the one that holds the tranny dipstick was missing. tightened that all up, and she runs GREAT! drives real well too. needs a tune-up but no need for an oil change or tranny fluid change, they're both fresh. and i need front u-joints. the front right brake pads are worn, so I'll throw on new pads. rotors are good, and rear brakes are new too. also the gas tank looks to be brand new.
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Long beds have a longer tank. the skid probably will fit though, you'll just have to cut it down and rework the mounts
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why are manual regulators so expensive? man, i've junked 3 jeeps (2 manches, 1 cherokee), and a set of doors that ALL had GREAT manual regulators in them. I don't see how they could possibly be that expensive??? I'll have a pair up for sale as soon as grismj86 and I finish our deal for his power window stuff.
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I compare ebay vs. junkyard. :P i've not once gone to a dealer for parts on my trucks...and I've only once gotten screwed on a deal with my nice mj...that was the paintjob. I personally wouldn't pay $5 for a tailgate handle..if I wanted a shiny one, I'd go get a rusted handle (got one!) and some stainless (got that too!) and make a nice panel to fit it out of stainless, and there ya have it, nice and shiny.
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first you should have some sort of sealant on it John, then you should tighten it FARTHER than hand tight...put a wrench on the base of it (best not to wrench the nut part on the top) and tighten it. it's tapered IIRC so just tighten it til you feel comfortable. probably half the threads or so will be in it... John, I have a ??? for you...I now have an 87 sport truck with a column shifter and dummy lights...first, how do I adjust the shift indicator, and second, does the shift indicator fit right into a different gauge cluster (if I cut a hole in the face of the tach gauge?) i mean, does it just bolt in or how does it work?...I would like full gauges in the thing, so my options are to adapt a normal cluster to fit the indicator in it, or to simply put a normal column in it, toss (sell) that and the gauges with indicator, and go to a floor-shifter. it's an easy enough conversion, but I'm debating whetyer or not i wanna do it...my column isn't tilt and isn't intermittent wipers anyways, and i would want to upgrade that as well...
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project tatersalad -- decision is...SCRAP IT!
JeepcoMJ replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
lol, Jared where are you located? I think that Fiscus may end up with it in a deal we have going, but we have to finalise it. -
yup, you have the correct one John, that's it. the old one was just to turn a light on if it was too low or hi...the new one sends a real-time reading of the pressure...so it stands to make sense that it would be bigger. did you change your temperature sending unit as well? if not you're gauge is NOT correct.
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so i tightened down the tcase and no more clank. clank :D haha, now i need to replace an idler pulley, new tranny filter and seal, oil change, and put on the front right fender flair :D yay daily driver!
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project tatersalad -- decision is...SCRAP IT!
JeepcoMJ replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
it's for sale. comes with the gold rims and old tires that are on it, rear brakes not connected, 4wd works. needs floors and bedsides or cut off the junk rust. I have a title and vin (off another truck) that goes with it, as I don't have the title for this truck...it was originally a parts truck. 200 bucks. I'm keeping the front bumper, a stock one goes with it. -
So I tightened the torque converter and it toned down the clanking...but it's still clanking from the bellhousing region. looked over the flex plate, it's good. it's not moving on the crankshaft so that's not it. BUT the right side of the bellhousing is loose (bolts have walked out)...Sooooo I'm pretty certain that by tightening that up I should be good. then just gotta tighten up the down-pipe to exhaust manifold and she should be good to go. my beater white truck is up for sale now. any takers? a couple hundred or less is all i need, it's a 2.8 with a good ax5 and a sring-over rear. it's got everything you'd need to convert that 4-banger or 2.8 to a 4WD pickup. rear brakes need TLC (non-operational) but it runs and drives.
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Hey twisty, i wish you were closer...I'm turning my beater jeep over to anyone who wants it for a couple hundred or less...and it has EVERYTHING you need to convert your new 86 to 4wd, and a spare 70,000 mile motor too!
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my dad was down in the shop late tonight...later than me anyways. he removed the dust cover and sure enough, the torque converter is loose. so we'll take care of that 1st and then go from there. i don't even care if it's a cracked flex plate, i can just drop the tranny and put a new one in. oh yeah, this thing has BRAND NEW EXHAUST all the way back. if i didn't say that before. pictures in the mornin!
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Older 2.5L, 4spd; '97+ dash. Incompatibilities?
JeepcoMJ replied to countryjeep's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
well, you CAN put a np231 transfer case onto the ax4/ax5 i believe. and were it out of a newer cherokee with a speed sensor rather than a cable, you could then just put the newer speed sensor in it. the sensors in the 97 plus for the engine would have to be used (sorry, not sensors, sending units is what i meant). so temp. and oil pressure sending unit would be needed. but Yes! you could make it work. and you would have to use the newer engine harness as well then. so basically you're best off finding a complete 97+ xj with a bad motor (or good motor to swap into yours) and swap all the components. you'd need the newer heaterbox and it's ductwork as well. also, I believe that some of the mounts changed for the dash as well, no big deal though. also you would need the newer style doors if you intend to have nice newer style door panels... it's a big project, but well worth it in my opinion. -
Pics up tomorrow Eagle. i don't think it's a engine knock though...it seems like the noise is coming from the bellhousing area to me. sounds like a loose torque converter or bad flex plate (TC holes wobbled out or something...were it bad it wouldn't run cause of the sensor down there) any input? ever had or heard a loose torque converter?
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you guys are gonna HATE me more than you already do...I was lookin at it and listenin to it idle, throwin one back with the pops, and we decided it sounds like something's loose...too sporatic of a knock to be an engine knock. so we shut it off, checked all the pulleys...one bad idler pully bearing, but that's not the main problem. we put a breaker bar on the crankshaft and rotated it, and it seemed like it was comin from the back of the engine...so now we think the torque converter is simply loose :D or possibly a bad flex plate. but we're pretty darn sure that it's not a rod knock or anything...if it is it's a busted crank for sure, with how loud it is. on a sad note, i tried to shift into 4wd...felt loose...went under it, wasn't connected. sorta connected it, and it doesn't seem to shift... but on another up-side, i got ORIGINAL COMANCHE BUCKET SEATS AND CENTER CONSOLE TAKE THAT!!!!!!!! ok i'll just post pics tomorrow.
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Crossmember location with AW-4
JeepcoMJ replied to BRC 88MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
umm....check where you bolted the tranny to the crossmember, you may have it shifted over a set of holes? I'd re-drill the tranny mount holes before i'd mess with the frame mount. is the crossmember FOR the aw4? if not then get one FOR an aw4 and use that...should solve your problem. -
haha, true enough. i mean there's a huge difference between 19 and 13 mpg....which one will be more towards 19 or 20 when properly tuned?
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uh....well, i have my nice 86 with the 3.8 camaro motor, my beater 86 with the 2.8 motor, and this 87 with the 4.0. then my dad has his 86 with the renault diesel, and my bro has an 87 pioneer. so 5 :D i can't wait till my mom hears...she will GO OFF THE WALL!!!!!!!!! haha but i couldn't pass it for $200. I'm gonna fix it i think and then prolly sell it for like 1200 or something. maybe use it as my wheeling/DD vehicle so i can keep my other one nice...i needed a DD anyways. what's better for gas mileage? the earlier 4.0s or the HO 4.0's? I'm wondering which would be better....cause gas mileage is key.
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why would you make a skid plate out of something thin? isn't the point to NOT bend and offer protection?
