JeepcoMJ

hey alex, I actually have a driver's side cab corner...I plasma cut it off at the pinch welds and the top one second line up from the bottom...got a passenger side too...

the maroon one is my brother's 88 4.0 Pioneer 2wd>4wd conversion, ax15 3" RC lift, 1200 watt custom sub/amp system power mirrors, adding power windows and locks. 31x10.50's mine is the white one '86 custom 2.8v6>(1996)camaro 3800v6, 2wd>42d conversion, 3" RC lift, 4.0 header panel fully restored and 31x10.50 timberline a/t's the blue one is my dad's turbo diesel '86 Renault 2.1 TD, stock everything, dana 44 rear end with 4.10's.

...he already did the SOA in the rear now is thinking of going back SUA

well, despite the cracked head in one of the precups, it runs great. hopefully we'll have another TD addition to the family soon, we just need to finalize the details. we have a brand new 0 mile motor for the TD and we're looking for a new bed, so that we can restore it and slightly modify it. But it's a hell of alot better than the 2.5 or even the 2.8. I love it!

hmm sorry if I seemed agressive. but I bet that switch is bad. As I said my experience with fans is in the GM department, and that's computer controlled. and my bro's 4.0 (88 pioneer) kicks in @ 210. maybe something is changed on his or they varied by year

for a first vehicle...unless he has some offroad driving etc. i wouldn't DARE give him that lift. learning on that will be strange....not to mention the insurance cost of it. I'd take it back SUA cause the lift on the front end will be hell. FYI the lift is higher than anticipated because the 5.5" estimated lift from SOA is with the dana 35 rear end, which is considerably smaller in diameter than the 8.8. take it SUA and build a spring pack, or order a set of 4.5" rusty's leafs.

check this out...make half doors for your manche! ...or cherokee http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=912901

air bleeds from the reservoir. make sure it's full, start the truck up with the cap off (while it's on jack stands) and turn the heck out of it for awhile. that's DEFINITELY symptoms of air in the system...in my experience

first, it should run at 210 degrees. second, I thought that they run based on the computer? I'm used to working with gm computers in camaros though...

hey beaterjeep...i didn't realize you're in wisconsin. we should wheel sometime...

it's a 91 or earlier. Eagle, isn't a missing/disconnected trackbar something that gives symptoms of hard steering (rather, no-steer)

thats what i thought. the guy who owns the JY i go to is thinking of retiring...he was talking to me about it over the phone today and said he'd consider selling the whole JY to someone in payments or something...but didn't kno how much. I was just thinking everything else in the yard could be crushed and start a jeep JY real easy...5 acres of jeeps sounds nice to me!

haha, happy belated birthday mjeff

sounds fishy packrat...just hope it wasn't stolen before you got it...

hehe, the JY I go to has 3 full sets of good manche taillights...i'm takin those. was gonna go today but crappy weather...they have my black interior!!!!!!!!!! and possibly a cargo light? i'm gonna keep hoping! oh, hey, anyone think there would be a demand in the wisconsin region for a comanche and cherokee only junkyard?

mjeff that would look pretty BA on your mj. warf, how much did it cost in materials, and how long did it take? i'd like to see the framerails pics too if you have them... Pat

perhaps you didn't take out the factory spacers when you installed the new ones? or perhaps one of your coils is cracked? or perhaps the coil bucket on the axle has collapsed/cracked/broke and you don't know it...i had that happen to me. or maybe one of the springs was just softer metal than the other. that would also do it. inspect your front end very thoroughly.

haha, yes document it and take pictures...not a necessary mod but I am always looking to add more things to my jeep :D

nice :D

hmm...now may be my chance to convert mine to the hand brake...i like it better anyways. I'll see if I have the correct cable for me to do that, and if so, I'd be willing to part with my stock parking brake :D

most weren't painted

well, so is swapping out the gauge cluster at all... so it's better to be accurate than not. hey john, take a look at your old speedo gauge...maybe it's the same style and can be swapped right into this cluster? might be a sacrafice though if your old one didn't have the trip meter....

it's a new radiator? or a factory rear (or split rear) window

sure Pete, i'll take one or two. how much? I'd actually like one in white too if you have one that's 12" white... get back to me on that and I will PM my address to ya :D

redoing the mileage on that style is fairly straitforward...i just realized you can do it without removing the face. once you have the gauge out (via 2 phillips head screws on the back and 1 on the front) you will see that the wheels are very much in the open. on the odometer side, you will see that there is a gear on one side, and if you look closely at the other side you will notice a little C clip holding the numbered wheels together. remove that BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT and you can get just enough room between each wheel to reset it to your exact mileage. be careful when doing this too as you can break the small clips that are in-between each numbered wheel. when it comes to putting it back together, simply make sure everything is ligned up where you want it (via looking at the front of the gauge and checking that it's what you want) and reinstall the little clip. NOW HERE'S THE KICKER. that c-clip bounces like a mofo if you don't get it on right, so be careful, and don't, i repeat DON'T do it in a carpeted area. i lost my clip doing that...and couldn't find it so i just used a different gauge. take your time, don't force anything, and do it right. think while you do it and you won't screw it up. hope that helps.