JeepcoMJ

lol, i've got $1000 into my new engine and the parts for that, $1800 into paint, payed 300 for the truck, 500 for the lift, 300 for the front end rebuild, 150 on brakes (i think), 600 for the tires, 500 on the stereo, 50 for the toolbox, 250 for the interior, and 100 for the bedliner, a truck cap, and the split rear that's going in it. not to mention probably another 500 or so into little things. so between 6 and 7 grand i've invested into it...but there's not an ounce of rust on her, and she's everything i wanted. even at 7k i'm still doing better than buying a new truck, plus it's got the benefit of being a jeep :D bro has about 4 grand into his...soon to be another 4 or so with paint and the new RE lift and 34" tires he wants. and a new rear end etc. and dad's has about...oh i'd say 1000 into it :D my wheeling one about 200 lol.

not even the sub...you could use the back seat. AND YOU COULD RECLINE!!!! plus your view would be better with the longer windows on the side. the frame rails are different widths on the 2door from mid drive-hump on back. already been looking into it.

wow...and i thought i had reason to be mad. ifixit, what kind of hernia did you have? i have one on either side of my groin, with one being bigger than the other. been thinkin bout gettin them fixed, and now seems as good a time as ever.

i eat my own words...after looking closer, it appears that that may be the stock front axle...it's beefier on some parts than the newer cv cherokees. i just made an @$$ of myself.

3.4 camaro engine. i tell that to everyone with the v6. as stated, selec-trac was an option, but only with that t-case. get rid of the cv front end and put a non-disco uni-front end from an xj with matching ratio. unfortunately regarding ratios, we can only go by guidelines...a original owner could have ordered something specific, so you will have to check that yourself. it should have tags (maybe on the rear...but if it has cv's on the front end then the front axle isn't original so maybe not) and if not, you can remove the cover and count the teeth. MORE PICS!!!!

i will get the specs from my friend bill, he's the one who did it. but i must correct myself, it was not off of a trailer. he used a hydraulic brake controller in both trucks and rigged it to be a slave on the trailered truck. i usually get these things, but now i don't even get it :nuts: i still think with inginuity i could manage to do it. maybe

mj bodies were an option for some rc trucks. but not as detailed as these...they were cheap plastic.

answer; you place the the trailer controller (from a trailer with hydro brakes) in the brake system on the comanche to be trailered. by trailer controller i mean the part that's ON the trailer which controls the brakes by recieving the signal from the tow vehicle. i've seen this done on a pos chevy 1/2 ton that was being pulled by a duramax. worked flawlessly, the brakes didn't heat/warp and they experienced only normal wear on both vehicles.

only half of the front fender is the same. the back half. it won't bolt to the comanche rear flares. i did that on my manche but it didn't work

if you set up the rig correctly...meaning, with electronically controlled brakes on it and an electric controller on your towing truck, and tap into the brake light wiring on the trail rig with trailer harness. you'd need to tap into the trail rig's brakes as well with a trailer controller that has the capacity to operate the truck's brakes. it can be done. that's the goal with my mj...the only thing i don't like about it is that it will seriously take it's toll on the wheel bearings.

i've done alot of searches on them...if i could find them believe me i'd buy them out. do the door panels actually work? i mean, has anyone ever used door skins to do it? and how did it work?

with rim i believe kassidy.

i'd just wait until you have all the parts to put the coils in. that way you can make a day of it and be done, with no worries.

4 dr mj would be easier.

yeah those look like street tires though...how are those gonna be offroad?

i was admiring it on naxja. pretty cool i was wondering how tuff it would be to make into a manche as well.

it's a blast...check the project forum the thread is there (Project MJ 3800) and your best bet is gonna be the doorskins. but they may not have the same contour as the bed...i'm not sure. as for the rear quarter panels, i'm fairly certain that's a no.

no one makes bedsides. you could have them bent though, but i'm not sure how cheap that would be.

yea...umm...the nut ripped the threads up and now i can't figure out how to get it off? :???: :hmm: and i'm NOT paying the $230 bumper to bumper wants for them. i just need to get this one off...in 1 piece. i know i can make a good one, but idk how to get it off now? i may just bypass the system for now and then fix it later. idk if that's a good idea tho...

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm that's the link in case anyone else has the problem

nvm i went to naxja and figured it out.

small rear window more common with the stepside gladiator

alright, so how do i get it off? on the old one, i took off the 13mm bolt, and the nut that's on the shift selector shaft. then i pried on it a little bit and it brokethe plastic back right off. is there some way to remove it without breaking it or taking the whole damned tranny apart? i really don't want to drop the pan because it's got a new gasket and is already full of trans fluid. help?

nope

another 4 weeks i fractured the talus bone and bruiesed the lower extreme of my tibia apparently. soooo i'm not happy