JeepcoMJ

i have perfect cab corners and rockers that i cut off a parts shortbed truck i had. so that's not a problem. and the floor will either be replaced with some sheet metal. this is a wheeling truck so it don't have to be pretty :D

yea there are 4 more bolts you have to take out for easy access to the bolts. you CAN get at these ones with a wrench, it just takes time. but you take out 4 more bolts then you can lift the seat bottom off and get at these ones. not too difficult.

well bolt up the old u bolts then bring the new ones with. if there is any inkling of a problem, stop and swap them out?

don't even risk those u bolts. they're scrawny

haha, here's my 86 mj. 2.8 v6, ax5 tranny. tan interior with bench seat. the PO lifted it with 7 or 8" with stock springs and control arms, just homemade lower spacers. the rust is terrible. when I got it it had Rusty's 4.5" springs and rear shackles that added up to 8.5 inches of lift. the springs were shot, and there were no rear brakes (no lines) I replaced the rear end, springs, and shackles with one from another manche that was SOA i got from the junkyard. now i just gotta get a beefed up rear end and some brakes on the rear. i don't know the specs on the SOA but i think the perches are too short..i'm worried about axle wrap. this came with it too...for sale lemme know it's like new

haha, yea i should add "dial up beware" on the title...it's a crazy ton of pictures i've got posted. but thanks, I enjoyed doing the project, and can't wait til i make more progress on my next one.

in my experience, all body shops want money. and to cut time and cost. so I paint for myself now as I can't trust them.

what are the measurements of the battery, and what is the application. I STRONGLY advise against using anything that is used in a recreational vehicle. use something designed for a CAR. that limits you on size. also, smaller batterys don't hold as much juice and so you're sacraficing that by putting one in. when i get batteries, i usually go for the biggest one i can find, and the most heavy duty. especially when doing so for offroad vehicles.

srry, it's the one below the main leaf that I have to put in both, and the ones below that are broken on both sides. I'll maybe see about different springs...i'm not too particularly worried as this truck isn't even on the road.

they're broke on both sides. worst thing that can happen is lose an inch, but have a good ride again. we'll see.

that's most likely part of it, i'm not sure how common that is tho. also, check your tie rod ends and your ball joints. those, if they're bad, cause squirreliness

thanks Cole

so the performance of my jeep with the 3.8 camaro rivals that of a 4.0. power is at 200hp stock, with 225 torque. with the computer programmed, it puts out 211 horse and 246 torque. lil bit of an increase, i like it. I'm putting in bigger injectors when I put the new rear end in it. the next major drivetrain project will be to upgrade my ax5 to an ax15 out of a dakota. my tranny is junk...bad 2nd gear syncro and it grinds going into reverse, so as long as I have to replace that I may as well improve it. at the same time, i have to replace my rear main seal. I didn't do that when i had it apart. oh, 20 mpg when i drive decent, 18 when i just drive, and 15 mpg in 4wd. I can egg 22 mpg out of it if i want. with my timberline a/t's it will climb anything!

use the stock Radiator system, but buy a 92 or newer 3 row radiator from an open system. those are heavy duty, and eliminate the closed system. then just find a newere style open system reservoir. like $200 at most, and it's definitely worth it in the long run, considering you don't have to do any front end fabricating except for the electric fan mounts you would probably use.

question: the rear springs on one of my comanches is cracked..the 2nd one up from the bottom i think. I have a 3rd leaf (up from the bottom) from a comanche. what i want to do is replace that 2nd leaf with the 3rd leaf. can i do that? do i need to cut it? I'm looking to get some lift from it so i'm not too worried about cutting it, i just wanted to know if i can put it in?

put it in the bed, putting it in front of the blower motor...well, that would mean relocating the coolant reservoir which typically holds weight anyways. i understand the corner weight, but i don't like it. to each his own

those 4 bolts on top of the tracks are the bolts that you need to take off the seats to get the tracks off.

plexiglass would pe pretty awesome...especially w/ a drain in it so when you go muddin w/ windows open you can just hose that sh*t out!

Maaco is actually not that bad, as long as you do all the body work, remove all the trim, and don't let them paint your interior if you have them paint the inside of your door frame. and guys, I payed $1800 for the body work and paint on my truck, and I got "a deal". and i'm PISSED about the quality. he orange pealed the bottom edge to be "chip guard". the regular fricken paint withstands chips better than that...so i got mud flaps. then he was supposed to remove the bed, but didn't. and didn't paint the inside fo my bed because he thought i was "gonna just rhino line it". also, his body work guys just threw their old sandpaper into my cab corners from the inside, and didn't fill the seams between the cab corners and rocker panels. hence the fact that it's rusting like a mofo :headpop: so the only way to be happiest with your paintjob is to acquire the skills to do it yourself. a decent gravity feed spray gun is 70 bucks, paint and materials would run a couple to a few hundred, and the time in doing the work.

switch it to a 92 or higher HO style radiator...the full core ones had an open system with a Rad. cap and just a reservoir rather than the pressure system's reservoir and 4 ft hoses to the water pump. as for battery, i think it wise to leave it be...really, 10 lbs (less) is not gonna make much of a differense

lol, when i say low i mean 2k to 2500. i have a dif. engine than you too keep in mind. but mine performs best at around 2000 rpm when doing 65 mph.

either 4 or 6 bolts from the top of the tracks to the seat itself.

not too shabby for $150.

perfectly alright to vent here. I'd be pissed too. but at least it's from an mj. what was wrong with the original one again?

if not then just remove the front driveshaft and drive it as a 2wd if you need the wheels. that way there's no chance of accidently pullin in 4wd and f*king everything up. what does that gear ratio actually figure out to be?