JeepcoMJ

agreed. plus the interior is way badass so you don't have to worry, i don't think it's a problem...just keep the mud off the dash lol. how involved was the interior swap? i mean, did the wiring just lay in how it should etc...? i know you had to swap some tabs to make it mount up. reason i ask is i have a line on a burnt out 98 xj that has a good interior harness and all the interior pieces i could need for cheap. oh, and the real kicker, is the a/c+heater box the same as the comanche's, and do the controls work with it? or did you swap those out too?

i think they're the perfect size...still have room for flex and travel, while gettin awesome grip!

yea i was thinkin that too...i have 31's on my truck with either 3:73 or 3:54 gearing (not sure) and even with my 2.8 i was under 20. with the 3.8 i break 15 easily...that guy's truck is one slow truck.

alot of the stuff in this xj i found is trash...but what's good i will probably end up using, sorry.

you have any side-view pictures? or pictures of the finished interior? i'd sure like to see those... and pics from front and behind of those axles. that thing sure is impressive...

man we gotta see more pics of that truck!

i think what 86fubar was trying to say is it's a street truck that's wheel-able? it's sure damned nice...not a fan of the bobbed tail at all but it looks good enough in that respect. the updated interior and newer front end takes it away from it's off-roading roots in my opinion. not to say that's a problem...my mj is a street truck only/mild fun offroad truck. and i want the updated interior in it and newer front end. but i KNOW that's all i will use it for. that's why i'm building a second one...i'm getting RHD like i want but that one is gonna still be an offroad truck only basically.

the one i'm talkin about is a hack...but it isn't going to be. with regards to your slotted rims Kassidy, those shouldn't be a problem at all to install...once on the studs they shouldn't move at all in any direction. i had a set like that on my sandrail at one point. they were great actually, because i could swap them out between my street rail and the one i took out in the dirt (type 1 vs. type 3 bug rear ends on them). [/i]

ok. that makes a project like that okay to me...but then the next thing i'll say is that if you are just trying to get your 4wd to work, going stock makes the most sense...all the parts are ready made and readily available (except perhaps the rear driveshaft). the divorced tcase doesn't offer any extra structural integrity or any advantages in my belief. to put one in you'd have to have custom driveshafts front and rear, a custom intermediate shaft, custom crossmember for the divorced tcase, with a custom rubber mount for the t case, followed by custom linkages to work. and if you removed the tailshaft of the 2wd tranny to make it work, then you'd need a custom speedo drive. all in all, i think the best bet is to ALWAYS go stock, make your improvements from there.

yea but then you have a ford part...i hate ford.

yea get some pics. being worth it depends, but i say if it don't rattle and vibrate down the road, and if the lug nuts stay on, it's good in my book!

10-4 on that one. i'd kill the guy if i could find him...at least i only payed 250 for the truck and got a topper, perfect rear slider, brand new CB and the (now i find to be stolen) claws the best had. it's wonderful... but like i said i enjoy wiring anyways so that's not the problem...

could ya use the stock front trim piece and then make your own vin mount to put it in on the left side? that would work i think...with some enginuity.

you could actually probably get away with getting the transfer case and rear housing from an aw4 and then you wouldn't have to remove your tranny from the truck. it would have to be the same spline though, so idk if that would work or not...i may be completely wrong. but just swap in a 4wd aw4 it's all the same. so do you have any images of your truck online here? i see it looks like it's got some monster claws on it and rims... p.s. i'm swapping an aw4 into my 95 xj because the tranny and torque converter took a sh*t. so i'll have tcase and the parts from it if you're interested.

are 9" rears a 5 on 5.5 pattern? jw cause i have 2 american racing polished alloy rims that match the 5 on 5.5 ones that are on my DD. those rims will be going on the offroad one once i buy some better ones for my dd so i guess if fords are 5 on 5.5 then i get to keep them when i go with an 8.8 or 9" :D

fiscus is right..just get a complete motor and it's computer. you will still need to change your fuel lines to run to the fuel rail, and you'll need to put the HO downpipe on as they are different. make sure while you're doing it you check your exhaust manifold for cracks.

he means he left the 2wd 4.0 trans on the 4.0 motor. he put it in the truck it appears. that 4.0 swap is fairly easy to do and offers much more power than the 2.8 or the 2.5. minnydigger, if you want to stay auto, get an aw4 out of a cherokee that is near the same year as the engine and harness. they don't vary much, and any variations are purely computer-related.

yea, well, that truck is no picnic anyways...the guy purchased 6" lift springs or something like that, then shackled the rear. made his own front lift for it outta some plated steel/tube lifts (like the block lifts basically), but didn't replace EITHER control arm. it's at 8" of lift AT LEAST with stock arms. the shocks were just cut and welded to be longer, and the front brakes were just repositioned to work. there aren't any rear brakes (weren't long enough???). it has all this lift with stock springs in front, no shocks now cause none are better than $#!&ty ones that don't do anything, and NO tranny drop with stock driveshafts (rear tcase seal is SHOT) oh, and when i step on the brakes, all the gauges go up. otherwise they don't work (except the speedo which is 17 mph off). rear lights don't work either. and it's really rusty with no floors and about half the tranny hump. i acquired the title for it though. *deep breath* and it's a 2.8 :mad: i'm putting a 3.4 camaro engine in it for now, unless i find a donor 4.0 cherokee and swap the wiring harness. i don't care about the faulty wiring i'm redoing all of it anyways because i'm removing all non-essentials. bought a RHD dash for it to convert it that should be fun. haha, sorry i jacked the thread my bad. back to topic: Rusty's still sucks, but it may have been more the creator of the truck's fault than the lift manufacture...

i'm with rokhound and dakal. the white comanche here is my next project it's my offroad truck it has something like 8 inches of lift and the rear springs were rusty's. they shattered first time out when i got the truck. that's why the right side sits lower than the left right now. oh by the way, those are NOT my wheeling tires...those seem to be missing??? cause i know i sure as heck didn't take them off and i didn't put these on it so i'm thinking someone paid me a visit... this is my brother's mj (currently parked due to medical issues and a busted front left u-joint and axle shaft) it's lifted 3 inches, with 31x10.50's on it. the plow is NOT putting weight on the truck in this pic, that is the 3 inch lift. just to give you an idea of how high the white truck is. anyways i hate rusty's they are absolute crap.

yes i think that it has a hole or crack in the bottom sill of the metal frame that the window fits into on the cab. caulk it from the inside of the cab...easiest fix i say.

and your fuel lines if you put the HO intake on. they hook to the fuel rail in a different location.

yea someone does for the aw-4 to make it like a manual-auto trans. or do you mean the handle? ask Eagle i *think* he had mentioned something along those lines...don't quote that though... i'm not sure WHO but i know SOMEONE does...

well i've never had problems with MJ's leaking from the rear window, but i have had my fair share of windows out. the cab rear window frame (to which the rear window frame mounts) has a recess so that the window will be..well, recessed. just about 1". now the way I understand it is thatif water were to get behind the "weather stripping" (window gasket) for the window, it could sit on the bottom of that recessed sill and cause the metal to oxydize (rust). I'm not sure how common the pinholes (caused by rust not from factory) would be, but I'd assume that it HAS happened. now, do you have a split rear window or a 1 piece? i ask because it could be leaking from the frame for the split rear, or the window frame that the whole thing sits into. either way I would not fret too much over it unless you are EXTREMELY worried about it rusting...simple check is to look at where it's leaking and see if it looks rusty. if not, just caulk it. that's the best fix..i wouldn't spend too much time on it.

oh, and you'll notice that the connector view shows that there are multiple grounds...if one of those isn't grounding correctly then it wouldn't ground the fuel injector along with other sensors (possibly). so check that out while you're at it...

this should be all of the wires running from your ECM i think i posted this already but i forget lol this is the connector view this shows the system and how it's wired...the ECM is on the right in the middle basically this is a continuation of that different view continuation of that different view. look closely at these the info i put here includes the connector numbering/diagram, and if you look at the wiring system diagram it tells you what wires are which colors. hope this helps!