JeepcoMJ

ok

began the SOA today. I'll show pics and explain later everything disconnected handy heavy duty frame stands new u-bolts axle out wet spots are wd40 from me squirting the brake line ends to remove the brake line...it was a halfassed line so... removed axle truck view axle set to figure out stance, centering, and pinion angles let me say that metric tonne rear springs offer ALOT more lift than normal ones using the jack to set pinion angle...decided to put it on jackstands as this method wouldn't offer me turning ability on the driveshaft to find binding. new ubolts and perches, this is how it will be set up and I'll be welding in the shock mounts/perches seperately. it's NOT welded yet thats how far the yoke is out...less than an inch is in I think this is where it needs to be located, but the tranny has to drop or driveshaft lengthened or both. oh, a view of my REALLY REALLY clean and functional CAD, my nice control arms, and the shocks :D so I don't know what I am gonna do about the rear driveshaft...the yoke is too far out and an SYE is out of the question. I'm basically broke and I owe alot of $$$ towards school for the upcoming fall semester. long story short I did something dumb at school last fall (didn't hurt anyone else at all, it involved me basically just making a poor decision that set myself back a few paces) so I got suspended didn't know if I'd be going back but did get back in...well, now $$$ is for that and this is the back burner. SO right now the badlands is looking like a not-happening-this-year sort of thing. cause if I have to pay for a driveshaft to be built, I won't have $$$ to get there and back...and if I don't pay for one, I can't go cause I don't have a rig. damn, that affects me, and beaterjeep but at least we will still get his 88's new front axle in. anywho, badlands is up in the air unless I find a functional, cheap solution. please, offer me your opinions/suggestioins.

yeah, I'm just concerned that what I have won't work. I am doing a traditional SOA with welding and new spring perches...so I have to set pinion angle myself and it needs to be good. which means I really can't set it until the transmission is in the desired location... so in the morning I will be fabbing up my tranny drop brackets out of some 2" tubing for now...I don't really wanna drop it that far but it will help my front driveshaft too so.... problem will then become the t-case linkage. always something... anywho, let me know

it'll be a 20 if it's not a 35. I'm sure stuff is available for it, but I wouldn't even know where to look. I'll nab a pic of my dad's Renault 86's pumpkin as that is an AMC20 rear axle. not to be confused with the DANA20 which is a t-case

how far off are the measurements on it? did you center the doors perfectly? I only ask because my measurements show that it won't work as bolton with the striker, and everyone's door swap thread shows it won't work as well. please enlighten us, cause I'm thinkin of the swap so if it's so easy, I'm game!

hey, what did you do for your driveshaft. I've SOA'd mine today and the yoke is slipped pretty far out...I don't trust it to stay in at attica and now I'm leaning towards not going since having a new one fabbed at the moment is outta my price range.

the striker plate on the 98 style is in a different location and styled differently. it's only off by like 1" or so so it is probably so easy to adapt that your local jeeper just said "yeah, its direct swap". and he's right, it is. you have to modify only 1 thing to get it done. the rest is identical.

if it's an 86 it's either a 2.1 diesel (not likely), a 2.5 four cylinder, or a 2.8 six cylinder. unless the PO did some work to it, that's not a dana 44 rear as in 86 your options were the 35 or the amc 20. so I'll bet it's a half round basketball shape (not oval...35 is oval) diff cover. that's an AMC 20 which is just as strong as a dana 44 if not moreso, and it is most likely 4.10 gears already. THAT means it also probably has the tow package on it which means you would have a rear class 3 reciever. keyword being probably.

I'm just putting it in on sunday I think...the tracbar on the 3800 isn't safe for me to drive in speeds in excess of 45mph if I hit a bump...bumps make it death wobble side to side. I also think my UCA bushings are shot (still haven't replaced them...my engineering of the exhaust headers/manifolds means that I have to remove the driver's side one in order to remove the upper control arm bolts :( ) so I will be looking into that.

Jasper motors are supposed to have higher output oil pumps in them, as they are supposed to have a higher performance and less tolerance for low oil pressure. they also should demand a slightly higher fuel pressure but will work just fine in a stock vehicle. on the note of problems with gauges, I have 7 or 8 gauge clusters here. 2 full ones for 2.8/2.5's (about half-complete now), 2 for 4.0's (one is perfect, one without fuel gauge), and a couple non-tach but full other gauges clusters, plus dummy clusters. anyways, the 3800 was showing less than 9 volts with everything turned on, and I just had the alternator built to higher specs (145 amp) so it should supply me with more than enough power to run dual 10" subs and a 1200 watt amplifier, much less 4 fogs and just one 10 inch and a 600 watt. so I played with the clusters and found one voltmeter that read at 16 when idle and nothing on, and 15 with everything turned on. that's right on the money with my diagnostic rack's voltmeter so I know it's correct. put it in and now I'm happy.

well, i am still in...I think. but as I just found out I am going back to college in the fall (as in, found out on tuesday), money is getting tight. tight enough that is, that I cannot afford to have the driveshaft for the 89 built (the lift made the yoke come too far for me to wish to risk operating like so) if I plan on going...and I plan on going only if the 89 is built as I won't wheel the 3800. doesn't help that my family is tight on money right now too. So bare with me here I will still comprise all the info I have into a document for everyone, but I am unsure as to whether or not I will be able to go. my last hope is a 1.5" tranny drop that I'm gonna fab. up. that might give me the ability to get a functional pinion angle without losing much clearance.

he's running a jasper so it should be higher anyways.

I think it's funny that everyone is treating her like she just got on the site...she's been here longer than me and I'm SURE she knows what she's doing.

I'm pretty sure you need to put the 8.8 rear axle under the comanche for the discs to work. and it's 96 or 97 on up explorers that have the right one.

anyone?

haha NO. I am comfortable with a high pressure tank in a low-gravity environment. but no way would I walk around with scuba gear on my back in a junkyard. baaaad idea. I was thinking more of a mount-to-truck and refill when needed system

I can't read. BUT my point does stand that it is very usable. on top of that, I can carry two 6 gallon scuba tanks on my back while walking with my fins on in my 7mm wetsuit, goggles, snorkel, hood, and gloves with the BCD deflated just fine. I weigh 160 and have a body fat percentage of 4.2% which means that the other 95.8% of my body is comprised of 70% water, leaving me with just about 25.8% of muscle and bone. that's all approximate, but it just points out I'm no big guy (6'1" but scrawny) and it isn't too much of a burden for me to carry, so I don't consider the weight of a scuba tank a factor.

he didn't say it was steel. scuba tanks are available in aluminum as well. BTW I think if you use a proper regulator, you could run PSI as high as scuba does...it's only about $10 for a refill on a scuba tank and that much pressure would be GREAT for working on things. especially since it has a ready-made disconnectable valve. I wanna say, use the regulator and primary valve and block off the secondary, but set the pressure as your readout.

hey, will a trackbar off of a 89 4.0 pioneer shortbed work on a 86 2.8 longbed? the one on the 3800 is shot, the one that came off the 89 was replaced less than 2000 miles ago along with all balljoints, ujoints, brake pads, and upper control arms. so I guess I'd just like to get away with putting this one in the 3800, but they look a bit different...I assume they're the same or similar length and the only difference would be because they sit lower as a result of heavier engine and are therefore different in length by a half inch at most...

Yea, that's what I thought too. But, I know I did the search on NADA right, as it's the same as I have. It is a lil :nuts: if ya ask me. so tatersalad is worth $1500, 89 is worth $7000, and the 3800 has GOT to be what, $14,000? :P

yep. I need contact info still so I can get that together for everyone

I like my stock exhaust... and I have enough of a traffic record at the moment that police contact is a bad thing...I think I want quieter exhaust. oh, testing stations here won't test your car unless it comes out behind the tire and when I say out, I mean OUT from underneath the vehicle...

I can't wait to see it with the grille I'm giving you!

I'm debating on 3.73 or 4.10 righ tnow as my 89 will be the commute truck from here to whitewater (45 min.) for school and will still regularly see highway travel. 3.73 sounds best to me...

a wedge shaped prybar would be the way to remove it