JeepcoMJ

don't forget, that pic of the mag photo was claimed by him as his rig. hahaha he shouldn't be behind a angle grinder or a welder. matter of fact, I'm pretty sure he's not qualified to do oil changes at jiffy lube.

I'm SURE he didn't do that in school. so I'm thinking he wasn't concerned too much with addition.

What he means is, you might NOT want to sit on the tan bench. And also welcome to the addiction, and our lil corner of the institution, I mean internet. I'll drink my meds...er beer to that!. mmmmmm cherry flavoured today. can't wait til next round...

too bad we don't ALL have access to a tubing bender... dayum nice! I like the incorporated jeep OHC into the cage. whole rig is SWEET!@!

rockhard, please forward your pics to Jeep corporation. I think they may want to have a look at it, and that it's high time for a new comanche. I feel that now with them being a seperate company, they may wish to have a truck produced.

good luck....take lotsa pics!

new door handle plus adjustable mirror Joe and his new grille on the 88 racerback installed new rims plus tires Joe is 6'1". the 89 is higher than him almost. compare that, the 88, and my 89 cleaned the inside, put in floormats, matching center console, and the seat bra that was in the 89 I like it. it covers tears added radio and black bezel. done but needs new rear bumper that pic also gives you a good idea on height of my 89. all in all, I think Joe's project turned out very well.

do it!

end result, we didn't have to do anything with the front end but bolt the trackbar mount down. we put on a set of tires that came with one of my trucks...all matching and with half tread left which were better than his "slicks". painted the rims black and added chrome center caps. and a matching spare tire. his heater/ac system wiring has been hacked up. really bad. so I went over what he had and decided the dash needs to come out to fix it, so I simply wired a relay to a switch for an on/off for defrost and heat and he can control hot/cold it works as good as can be with the wiring that was in there. wired in a stock radio and "retrieved" his antenna from the inner fender well. solid mounted his bedliner, added the racerback, replaced the driver's side door handle. vacuumed and cleaned the interior. put on a good grille strapped exhaust to tranny crossmember.

ugly

what gap everything is the same.

yay! I'm convinced now that I need a 2wd manche as a summer rig, the 89 as my offroad/winter rig, and the 3800 as my show/sunday drive rig. working on Joe (beaterjeep)'s 88 2wd longbox today made me realize that they really are great for gas mileage.

some early 86 firewalls were the same ad the 85's and would not work. but a hammer solves that [rpb;e, easo;u/

axle was fine but the trackbar bolts were loose as heck. doing more stuff...

Today is the day that Joe comes down, and we do this project up! I have the axle here needing a bit of cleaning. there's a couple choices for springs...one being the heavy duty ones that came off of the 89 gotta drop his front end then simply bolt this one in and then all that is left is to put on the racerback, fix one door lock, and a few little things like that.

no need to pay for brake lines...extensions work perfectly well. disconnects don't take a genious to make... and a trackbar is between $120 and $250. any way you do it, you're high in price. at least this way you get the components you want to incorporate andyour own choices in places you get them from. ...just an example, If I did the TNT longarm with the rough country springs and trackbar I got, and the rear SOA, It would cost; $280 for trackbar AND coils. granted trackbar isn't as HD as I'd like. $26 for SOA perch $24 for u-bolts $10< for brake line extensions $899 for TNT longarm. so it would be $1239 and then you'd be left with shocks, rims, tires, and either lengthening your d-shaft or an SYE kit or both. now, that's a bit more than some kits, but you get what you want and not what they tell you to want. plus I like to machine at least part of my projects, so the swaybar discos would be part of that along with a few other things.

I put the stock steering wheel in at the request of many people (friends/family didn't like it, come to think of it it was out of place), and I fixed the driver's side vent wing window as it had broken off the spindle. welding next to glass isn't fun but I succeeded. also stuck a bottle of recharge in the a/c just 134 and it's holding with the dye that I was given. and it's FWD right now. I'm making spacers for it at my dad's friend Bruce's machine shop here sometime soon for the transmission...1" thick, 3" round spacers...8 for the crossmember, and 2 for the t-case skid plate. then I can use my pinion angle tool to set the pinion angle within 2 degrees of the transmission yoke output angle. then build the driveshaft based off of that I'll also build a 3" drop kit for the e-brake assembly so that it will work with enough slack for flex. after that, all that is left is to lengthen the brake lines out on the front and rear, make the brackets for the front, and then finish the cab corners. and yes, I am sick of working on this thing as it's now become a disapointment for the week, so working on smaller things is what I'm interested in at the moment

let pete have the say in it, it's his site.

I understand your reasons, but I don't like all the extra hassle...simple is better. that's just me. oh, and we are plenty appealing already...look how many new faces we keep seeing.

no, thanks. I don't need to be clicking 3 different things to get to the forums. and my news is contained in everyones posts. it looks good, but I don't support the idea of making things more difficult to navigate.

a set of injector o-rings is about $6 from any parts store. that's for all of them, top and bottom. I highly advise new on that.

I blew up a dana 35 with a 2.8, then blew it up again with a 3800 in the truck. second time was easier :D

buy the TNT y-links at $899. then SOA the rear, and match the front with a set of acos and adjustable control arms. in my opinion, tha'ts all you need.

I'm gonna say that by how bent up the front of the frame is (as pictured in your pic), that it's not MORE's fault either. maybe your rig was in an accident and it's tweeked just a little bit. also, I'd slide the end of the brace between the two clamps rather than bolted onto the side. it would offer more supporet I think.

sometimes the flasher goes bad and only one side will work fine. the way a flasher works is it's a metal filiment that flaps open and close....it when it heats up after contact, it opens and shuts the blinker off. due to the heat, they can sometimes fuse together and that would cause a "no-blink" on one light, but the other side could still work. so replace it. it's a $3 part.