JeepcoMJ

literally everthing from the front seats forward is the same between a cherokee and comanche. from there back, nothing is interchangeable.

I've heard of 4 people doing the swap, who have had to redo the entire interior AFTER wasting time trying to figure out why it don't work. ...have I myself done it? no. but, I did yank a 2.5 harness and a 4.0 connector and looked at the wiring, and it appears different. also, alldata shows that it's different diagrams...i can't direct link to those pics though.

I effin hope he stays retired. he's been ready for that for years. sure, he had a good year, but us wisconsinites really don't need to see a repeat of the previous two seasons. he's hurt, he's old, and while he's still better than most...his recievers don't work well enough with him (or maybe it's the other way around...) to avoid all the stupid mistakes they make. he's done and i hope it stays that way.

aaand the interior wiring harness is necessary BECAUSE the pin connector (bulkhead connector, the piece that the engine harness plugs into) is completely different pinouts. it will not start with the 2.5 harness in place, and it sure as hell won't run

i flat refuse to do any lift over 2" without control arms. you increase the chance of wrecking stuff, even control arm mounts etc. just, not worth the risk, and I've had a truck with more lift than stock control arms could handle...it wasn't pretty and i destroyed those control arms

my 89 (tnt has it now) had metric tonne springs...3 or 3.5" of rear lift. rode nice. I'd probably do those first. I'd also probably buy a set of LCA's

one thing though...it does ride a bit stiff. just the way i want it set up so it doesn't bother me. i like to actually feel the vehicle move...not ride in something with the feel of a pontoon boat

yes, it's been just fine. not sure if I'll remove it or not with the SOA and 6.5" front lift...we'll see. still stock shackles. will build boomerangs though for the future.

AAL and as you can see, it still sits a bit up in the back...3" rough country lift (from a few years ago when lower control arms were standard with the kit)

axle in. everything works again, now i just need to NOT step on the skinny pedal so much. dana 44 to go in with lift in a month or so. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I've got a new pair of OEM lower e-brake lines, and won't sell them because I CANNOT find them anywhere. not even at napa... if you find this to be the case, xj ones will work but they are longer...you'd have to coil them around once to fit correctly. BUT they work great with a lift :D

no, they're original flares, sanded down to look like 97-01 flares. you'd have to do some plastic welding to make 97-01's fit the rear. fronts are 97-01 though.

jackstands plus mocked the 33's.

this is from a person backing out of their stall into my truck...while i was at a stop sign Image Not Found only got $1300 for it. estimated at 2300 damage and it's a hardnose (single-step) paint job so it can't be blended. have to strip the entire bedside, and it was recommended I replace the bedside if I'm concerned about having it perfect again. i didn't pursue because while i would've won, it would have been more time and hassle than what it's worth. it sucks. I'd rather have a cab hit than a box hit. I can find a frame/cab almost any day of the week...good beds are hard to come by.

yeah...not a chance of him doing it. you know this company will take anything...because at around $8 a tire to dispose of them...thats 4k to get rid of them. sell 100 sets of 5 at $100 even...you'd still make quite a good investment at the current price. oh well

music

you're :nuts: cause the bulkhead pin connector is different. the pins don't go to the same locations between a 2.5 and a 4.0

1. the reason they're so cheap is the bulk quantity (who has room for 500 of them...? 2. who's gonna be able to accept delivery of 500 of them?

this is going to be sold in the next few weeks. will have factory chrome front bumper. new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor. aluminum valve cover, new cooling system (t-stat, water pump, hoses replaced). cd player also. factory turbine rims...canyons stay here. will put apache all terrains back on them. $1500 negotiable.

the 242 is selectable 2wd, part time, full time, neutral, 4 locked, and 4 low locked it has a differential in it kind of like a axle...in otherwords, in it's unlocked version, it can't bind between front and rear tires, and hence can be street driven in unlocked 4wd on dry pavement. this makes it great for snowy/drifty roads that are dry/sno/dry/snow. you get the pattern. an np231 is only usable on the road in slippery conditions. there must be some slip at the tires, or the t-case will bind and cause detonation

dexron mercron 3, and only that. with synthetics, you stand a chance of transmission detonation. now, some guys use it, but synthetic can wear out the brass plates between the clutch packs...causing no-shift and no-go.

mjeff, i hope you don't start the project without the interior harness. the pins on the bulkhead connector are waaay different

it looks like what golf carts eat what, balls?

filter off on a HO and you'll have no problem getting it out. use a air ratchet to buzz it back (may need an open wrench slightly smaller than the head of the bolt to apply moving pressure in the direction you wish to go) and buzz it back. tim's rubbed the filter.

lol. now at level 57 of comanchemaster... :roll: