JeepcoMJ

Nonsense!! That is why we carry liability insurance. Both on each car, and an umbrella personal liability policy. Insurance as liability only works if the guy who hit you even has it. A lot of limp along car drivers don't have insurance, whether required or not

I don't think the threat of a lawsuit is the reason. I think that when they see something crappy and or junky they figure the guy driving it doesn't give a damn and would just as soon hit them as look at them. Also likely true. I see people in crap,cars as being trashy low life's. It's one thing to be rusty or old, but some cars just give you straight up insight as to what kind of scum are behind the wheel.

People do not notice nice or clean cars. Dirty nice cars or crap cars stick out, and they heed them because no one wants to get hit by a poor person who will take them for everything.

Re routing in the dash will cause binding. Route it straight through the hole from the firewall through the column bracket. Going around does not help.

The shaft should only allow one way figment, and the problem you have is that the alignment is off. The drag link gets adjusted to repair this problem, then the tie rod to repair toe in and out after you adjust drag link.

Didn't do it on the way to work, but does it on the way home? You didn't secure it very well, mine freund, I bet it got melted on the exhaust. Two ways it binds like that...improper routing, or melting. I have yet to see one that was moving fine one way fail due to a lack of lube.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/22030-another-one-bites-the-dustscrapping-fun/

Pose. This.

Send me a pm. I build meyer plows for a living. Can definitely set you up with the controls, wiring, and pump...and they will work with the western/fisher rams and blade

Let's see... Hydro locked a 4.0 in Attica, drove that jeep there. Had the sense to shut off the instant I felt the rpm shift, spent a half hour pulling out and 25 minutes pushing water out of the cylinders. Ran fine, but was deep enough to put water in most cavities...diff breathers were higher, but trans, tcase, engine were underwater. Same 4.0 two months later. I never bothered changing the oil, trans fluid, tcase fluid. Was my dd but had company van and didn't have much purpose in putting miles on the truck. Didn't care about the motor, had a stroker to install. Company van was down for repair, had the only snow of the winter, got cold. Drove to work, on the way home, locked up engine. Pulled plugs, boss brought breaker bar, 19mm socket, BFH, map torch, and kerosene. Filled and lit cylinders, beat on hb bolt with bar and BFH. Got it loose, p it plugs in, drove home, installed new motor and trans, rebuilt tcase. Lost most of each cylinder wall, a good amount of piston, burned the top off one piston. 3800. Made it 4 hours away on my way to beaterjeep's place, launched countershaft in ax5. Front bearing failed, only left with 4th gear. Had a family member come get me and tow home. Learned to rebuild a manual trans the next day. Launched 5 ax5 and as many Dana 35 in that one. Also lost a rod bearing in it.

The plates he did are spreader plates. They should have had 4 holes in them, one on each corner, with bolts put in and tied into pinch welds for vertical support. Plating the frame involves putting a sleeve or plate front to back with horizontal welds only, and many supplemental plug welds (drill holes in the plate before attaching to frame, fill the hole with weld) fisheye or fishtail on the ends to keep a curved weld so that you do not have any verticals. Vertical welds on frames create stress points as the frame twists under pretty much any scenario. This will tear away the welds from that section, and the metal they are welded to.

All mj have vents unless removed during body work, or someone forgetful/lazy was on the assembly line that day.

Manual trans? Assuming you have a leaking master cylinder, and that is why you were replacing the ip wire, u probably have the same issue now with that.

How about a torquer cam and new tires. Guaranteed mpg improvement if you can keep rpm down. Mustang 5.0 injectors, open up tb, etc. etc.

..... Vertical welds on frame sections create stress and tear points. Probably shouldn't have done that.

Not everyone has skill to weld perches. Actually, 90% of the forum has not got the tools or experience to get penetration. With a 110v welder, perches cannot be done well enough to pass a weld test unless preheated

Get one from a 4x4, buy 4wd stub shaft, have machinist turn it down. Much easier than looking everywhere for something hard to find. Should cost under $70 in machining. Make sure you know the year of the donor vehicle as there are several breaks in unit bearing dimensions and therefore brake rotor and calipers.

And let's make it abundantly clear. A unit bearing in a jeep is designed as such that it MUST have a stub shaft bolted through the center, because they will not hold together without it. People have died without those stub shafts in the unit bearing. 2wd stub shafts are basically 4wd outer without the ears. You could buy outers and have your local machinist put them on a lathe to turn the ears off and keep it round. And balanced. But it's easier to swap an axle than deal with ball joints.

No on the zj 44. Same mounts as d35

Use the finest steel wool you can find, dipping it in water on occasion, the. Hose off. Do this before paint so that you don't scratch the black areas. That is exactly what I did and why the grille that was on my 89 looked so good.

Eh, they're both too cheap though. Jim, keep them. They're worth more to your fleet. I'd smash a set before letting them go that cheap.

Retainer rings and lights off a chevy g van or 80s chevy pickup will fit.

The two you got are incorrect. The replacement will look. Identical to what you took out. You have idiots at your parts stores.

Agreed

Dash wiring has to be 87 to 90. Wiring is different in 91