JeepcoMJ

the radiators will fit...they're the same rad... can you pm me a price on it? I'm interested...very interested.

nice. i find mine by looking in the weeds as i drive by places.

you can make it work that way. obviously you'll need to fit a wrench in there on either side...the plastic liner could get in the way, but if you fiddle around with it it will work, and last longer.

Any idea where to get the metal retainers? Mine are completed rusted to nothing. Thanks. I believe that someone still has them available, but the easier way to fix it would be to use stainless bolts. don't bother with the strip, washers work just fine.

it's on sunday wade :P

yea, wtf how'd you find that man! nice deals! looks like the dents will pop right out.

no wires connect to the steering wheel...just the "post" answer to Q2 is check fuse/relay (idk where it is...) then test horn...applying a 12v+ wire to it's connector will suffice. the first one will see if it's just a minor issue, second test will test the horn.

little more work today. still haven't messed with the CPS but 99% sure that's the problem. but, put in a full gauge cluster from a 90 cherokee and that works. need to hook up oil pressure and temp senders Image Not Found also went and picked up an 85 4 cyl 5 speed xj wagoneer today with my bro with 21 slot grille. took it straight to the scrap yard, had them yank the axles and drivetrain and gave the rest in trade towards this mj. Image Not Found so now it's got a 21 slot grille :D Image Not Found Image Not Found trim on this truck will be black windshield trim, chrome drip rail trim, black door handles, not decided on black or chrome mirrors yet but i have both, chrome 21 slot front end with chrome headlight bezels and bumper. the bottom 5" of the body will be rhino lined black.

90 and older horn is off when comanche is off unless they have the proper module. I've had 3 86's 4 1987's my 1988 my bro's 1988 dad's 1986 an 1989 a 1990 and on all of them the horn only works with the ignition on. (yes, all of those were MJ's and most of them are either sold off, or were parts and not worth fixing...stupid salt and rust) add on the two 86 xj's and 90 xj which all did it as well. the horn worked when key off on the 95 xj and the 94 xj but not sure about the 93.

I just put my full gauge cluster in my 87 mj today, but have yet to put the senders in...i'll do that tomorrow morning when I replace the CPS...

yes, but regardless they are side-specific.

they have that?

not true...he's got them right. the PIONEER is the one that's backwards. anyways, i offer you my opinion; lose the topper, keep it around for when needed but not DD. if you apply stripes, chrome wheels. if not, get rid of that matte black crap and spray the rims semigloss. the crap paint really takes away from the truck (no offense meant at all) also, if you apply the stripes then re-badge it. whether it be with vinyl badges or factory ones.

ok, a few problems with what you're getting. rear axle you'll need to switch spring perches in the rear. xj rear springs DON'T work. they're far shorter and your axle will not center in the wheel well xj rear driveshaft WON'T work and will need be retubed. everything up front is the same. switching from 3.07's to 3.55's is a marginal upgrade, but you need 4.10's for your tire size.

do you have a tilt column, and is it loose? it grounds through the first part of the center shaft...there's a universal in there and it doesn't travel through the joint. the first part of the shaft rides on metal surface (bearing???) and grounds out to the column itself. check your bolts to the firewall as well.

i agree with hornbrod on this...i've gone over MJ rear flares before, and can't get the right to fit the left or vice-versa.

yeah i didnt think so, i just didnt know if someone put some time into makin it work somehow. plus that truck was an 87 concept and the ZJ wasnt around until 93. so does that mean the idea for a ZJ came from the comanche? the ZJ was in it's mid to final design stages by the AMC/DCX interchange in late 87/early 88. the grand cherokee is a AMC design and cannot be attributed to chrysler inginuity (we all know they don't have any, and to say they do is nothing but a coverup for self-pity :P)

DON'T shoot them. you may hit theirscent glands and cause a worse stench than you can imagine... :eek: they need to die. either that, or you should make sure that you get to laugh at someone else while they retrieve them. but, I would find the cheapest easiest cleanest method of killing them, and do it.

self-tapping screw. install the short visors, put the clips on them, and screw 'em in where they belong. you'll have to cut off the little nub though. *shrug*

zj front ends don't fit the MJ...

my flowmaster 40 was $45

side-note with a comanche, a transfercase drop especially at a 4.5" lift is ridiculous to even consider. there is no need. also if you don't drop the t-case, you don't need to pitch the angle of the axle pinion up as the degree of function doesn't change. if you experience any vibes at that lift from your rear driveshaft, get a YJ slip-yoke, or do the next upgrade (best option) with a slip-yoke-eliminator. motion offroad. $$$ well spent.

hands down motion offroad.

the other thing is, these gauges are 20+ years old and aren't exactly the highest quality available. after so long, they can fail. my oil pressure gauge failed and just bounced erradically. I thought it was the wire at first, so I just replaced it (my wiring is all switched around as is with the motor swap) and the problem wasn't fixed. hooked up a manual gauge, checked. idles at 37PSI (buick 3800 so don't take my #'s as set point for a 4.0). I tried 3 different gauges before I found an accurate one...3000 RPM is 68PSI and it was spot on the whole time with the factory gauge. none of the jeep gauges are perfectly 100% accurate. they're a ballpark and more of a guideline. best bet is to check continuity on the wire first (eagle's method does just this as well), then check the gauge, then the gauge cluster.

i just splooged. :eek: :D