JeepcoMJ

sorry...just read the LA sticker and assumed wrong... that said, still interested :D

if you part out, i'm interested in the COMPLETE drivetrain. I'd probably find you a 4.0 mj in trade as well if you'd be interested.

you can replace the hinge pins easily enough with a hammer and a punch.

and those people couldnt get flood insurance because they were on a dam controlled lake. so they lost everything. fortunately for them, the failure of the damn is actually a state problem and if taken to court, either A. the county will have to pay, or B the state's taxpayers will pay and we'll pull budget from somewhere else statewide. the government should have flood insurance, they're just not gonna want to own up to the problem.

Agreed. to answer this riddle though, we need you to open the diff covers and take a few pictures of the center of the carrier...you will know when you see the welds that that is what we need pictures of. reason we need pictures is so we can look and tell if the gent' welded them to the carrier, or just to themselves. no. the carriers are the same between years, but there is a break for gearing (I don't recall what it is) and the spiders did change at the break (I believe). another thing is that if you have a plain open carrier, you need spiders for that. if the carrier was limited slip (not even remotely likely/possible with welded spiders), then you will need spiders for that, IIRC. I've probably got a set or two for each axle.

lol, thanks man. tool-wise i've actually only used my 4-way red handle screwdriver, a torx set, and my stanley 112 piece toolset. oh, floorjack, a bit of air compressor for removing wheels, and 4 jackstands. as for land...well, it's nice to have but i could do just as well with 2 acres. :D anyways. still not running right...i'm putting the front end back together right now and gotta toss the seat back in so i can ove it out of the shop. after the rain, i've gotta get the tractor out from in front of it and grade the driveway again.. :roll:

the water in the shop was actually from condensation as a result of rapid heating/cooling, and a few areas from roof leaks (30 year old tin roof= leak) all's well here. had the 3800 halfway up the doors though driving to work yesterday morning. i've got a hole in the floor on the front right, and need to tear the carpet out again and redo the floor apparently... :roll:

:eek: you sure you're his father??? :roll: ok, in all seriousness, CONGRATULATIONS man. it must be a very proud moment. :cheers: 8) i'll have a beer for ya since i know you won't get one for awhile...at least not around the kid :P

nice! 8)

you can even get away with using your old fenders, but will need to smooth/match the corners of the header panel.

About $300, and I got everything, thinking I would be installing this on an XJ. The rear flares and bumper end caps won't be used for example. But thats $300 into the country in washington, I still need to pay the guy for domestic shipping. the parts alone were about $165 for everything. sheesh! that's cheap as hell...did you get the wiring for the lights too or no? can you post up or pm me details on how to get the parts? I REALLY want this front end. $500 or less is worth it IMHO.

89eliminator came over today and helped me remove the dash...i wanted to show him what holds the dash in and how easy it is, and he jumped right in to help. so, thanks wade! :D so, the interior is now gutted. found a bird's wing on top of the a/c box :roll: then vacuumed it Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found need to pull the a/c box when i do the coolant flush (looks like i may need to do the head gasket too...) cleaned a bit of the motor off while i was at it... Image Not Found and we removed the rear diff cover to see if it was a locker or LSD...it's got LSD in it. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found all-in-all good day. i've removed all of the sensors on top of the motor as likely problems for it's poor running, including the TPS, MAP, IAC, and ICM. all's left to check is 02, knock sensors, CPS (most likely candidate), and the fuel pump and fuel rail.

SWEET! how much did everything set you back?

no, you'd be doing the same amount of work that you'd need to do to put a 4.0 in. the transmission from your 2.8 won't bolt up to the 4.2 much less hold the power. motor mounts won't work, and the header needs swapped out to 4.0 rad support plus altering firewall to fit and building exhaust. get a 4.0. they're cheap.

remember, 10am sharp means that we are not waiting around 3 hours for you to get there...5 hours drive time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on gas means no wasted time and as much fun as possible crammed into one weekend :D meet 10am sharp at that location on saturday the 19th, we don't want to wait too long.

alright. in light of this, can everyone start PM-ing me your phone numbers and such? I'll make a list and send it to all of you...i'd like to get all of the Maybes in the list as well. 89eliminator will come up with a meetup point and time since he's been there before and I haven't. CB channel 16.

not very beneficial. i'm sure you could install one, but it wouldn't be worth the time.

yep. i've pretty much got two blue interiors. i don't have a headliner, nor do I have a carpet (this one smelled like mice so it will go to the trash)

got sick of looking at the crap rims on it too, and didn't have the motivation to start chopping out the damaged sections, so i put it back together (mostly), and tossed on my spare set of canyons with 29" bfg m/t's. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

found 5 mice in a mouse nest in the driver's door... :eek: :roll: and tossed them in the chicken coop...chickens love mice. finished gutting the interior...just have to take the main dash out and re-remove the seat. it's getting a tan interior (light tan not the ugly butterscotch crap). also took the front clip off, and i picked up the title for it from the friend i got it from. it's a salvage title :cry: :headpop: not that i can't drive it that way, but the front left corner has been "repaired" :mad: person who did the work, doesn't know how to do body work. so, the left header support/radiator support needs to be completely removed and replaced. the header panel itself is junk as far as i'm concerned. more work. still doesn't even run right as i haven't been able to remove the damned CPS yet :headpop: still a decent buy though but kinda sucks. oh, installed the black window trim and the chrome mirrors. this truck gets a mild dose of chrome.

shame of it is his are rusted completely away...

sorry to hear this. fried starter.

"i am...very sneaky sir" "i like feet...i do not know why" sorry, adam sandler stuff...

upping a fuse is NEVER the solution. NEVER EVER the factory has figured out what that part of the wiring needs for a fuse. whatever electronics it's powering may only be able to take so much, the wires may be very small, higher gauge wires. any way you go about it, putting higher amp fuses in place of lower ones as a "fix" is a very bad idea. just my $.02

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