JeepcoMJ

I will take one of those senders but will need to talk to you about it. To put 97+ on, you have none of that bracketry that you tied into yours. Would be nice to have the tab you used go up a ways.

Best advice ever. This sums it up. If you don't know, don't answer. If everyone sticks to that, then the relevant responses will be searchable instead of having to muddle through the b.s. Now, rev, I will tell you a couple things. All factory bolt on conversions from jeep parts will require re drilling the bolt holes in the backing plates/ caliper brackets, and likely axle tube hole needing to be ground out. BUT. You need to shoot a p.m. To wade (89eliminator). He is currently on a wheeling trip so don't expect a fast response. He is running KJ liberty discs. All KJ liberties with discs for a 3.7 KJ use an 8.25 rear axle. This means that the center hole is large enough for the axle tube to slide in. Minimal work necessary. I do not recall if he had to re drill the mount bolts to match the d44. Those backing plates can be had new with complete parking brake assembly for $300ish from the dealer. Check with them. But enough KJ's are in the yards now that used may be the cats meow. Steel piston calipers are $80 each...huge upgrade over stock phosphoric ceramic pistons. Pads cerca $40, rotors about $28 each. The backing plates are nowhere near the thickness of the caliper brackets of all rear disc setups. You will need a spacer, the TJ rubicon retainers (need same re drill as plates to mount)... or do what Wade's dad did; Measure stock backing plate thickness at mounting flange. Measure caliper bracket thickness with dust shield. Subtract stock backing plate thickness from caliper bracket thickness Measure lip diameter of stock bearing retainer. Take those measurements to machine shop, have them make you two, and then have them slice the pair in half. That gave him drop in spacers that did NOT require yet more re drilling for bolt pattern, and did NOT require him to replace the wheel bearings and axle seals if he didn't wish to.

Going to get the title back for this thing tomorrow.

I will take the rust over your gun laws any day.

Your thinking is flawed. Flex on an independent suspension is dictated by the length of the a arms, and that their mounting location is as close to center of vehicle as possible so as to allow the arms maximum length and range of motion. The jag rear end wouldn't give you any of that. I dare say that it would flex more than 50% less than the stock leaf sprung rear. The jag was designed for handling...it is stiff sprung with low range of movement and appropriate valving to give a softer ride while maintaining maneuverability.

I will come get it, cash in hand

I am under thinking it. If his timing looked 180 off when it was done, the cam was timed at top dead center cylinder 6. The problem will come if the cam is set 180 degrees out from tdc1 and distributor is set at TDC 1. So, very simply, you cannot run the engine 180 degrees out' you would have to reverse the plug order. But his engine is NOT 180 degrees out. He simply rolled the crank to put the cam 180 degrees off. All this means is that the engine was not timed to cylinder one...but the entire engine was 180 degrees off at the time, and that puts it at correct timing as cylinder 6 compression is 180 degrees off from cylinder 1 He has no need to take it apart if it's running.

I loved the rc long arms. But not on an MJ. Choices are to cut cab supports to fit it, or modify crossmember.

If cam was out 180 when you did timing,, you were at TDC cylinder 6, not TDC 1. And no, it won't run if off between crank and cam. The flywheel windows for CPS will negate that possibility...unless you run plug wires to opposing cylinders as well as timing the distributor to match TDC 6. You were simply off when you set it.

Only pic I have of it. Just yakima bars for xj with kayak horizontal holders.

Thanks for this, don. This will be useful on the rebirth of my own beloved mj

Not sure I want deer guts on my tools, but thanks.

Use cherokee yakima roof rails. With kayak adapters.

The. Those are what you want.

Those are not the rockers, but simply the straights. Unfortunately, they are roughly worthless if you think they bolt in. The rails are all you need, the bracket from the rails to floor is different so entirely that compatibility isn't even close to possible. And the tilt mechanisms are IN the seat back, not the seat brackets. So unless they are the right color and in nice shape, they are junk to you

How do you like that thing? I have a handful of m12 tools, but no saws as of yet. The extended batteries make a huge difference, but I have 8 of the smaller red lithium batteries as well as 5 of the larger ones.

Remove the bumper from the bumper brackets first, then spray pb blaster in the rails from the rear. Let soak for as long as possible. Then with a 16" or so ratchet/ breaker bar /extension setup, work each 15mm bolt back and forth very slowly. Always tighten rusty bolts first just a tiny bit. Each bolt could take minutes, even an hour. But taking it off without breaking is always best.

Difference is one not only fits bolt on, but it is also the correct width. Spending half the money now will leave you pissed with how terrible it looks in the future.

More modification required than not. Build your own, cheaper. Especially one with a swingout...wouldn't be able to open the tailgate. The TJ is a lot narrower.

Probably a good idea, and peels right off when it gets bad and you need to do it again.

Noise isn't a problem, it's looks. Around here, people with stacks are....frowned upon. Typically because they fit a low class stereotype and usually are the people who end up getting ticketed for dumb, illegal things in their trucks.

Drill out the center 1/4", then use a torch to heat it from the center, let cool, and weld a nut to or, or use an easy out. The drill is to open space, the heat is to cause it to contract. If you have a tig welder, you can use the electrode, extended a bit, to score the I side. It gives you more control of the heat and allows you to heat further inside the bolt after the hole is drilled. This method works even better, but Long and short of it is you need to drill the hole centered for it to work,

It's on a chevy pickup frame. That's no longer than a real truck.

Cheap 3.55 axle to put in YJ. And all YJ are vacuum disco, so parts are actually desireable

I've tried the cable option, it doesn't work too well. Cables rust, even when insulated. I have yet to see the stock ones fall. and this is just disgusting.