JeepcoMJ

Was the dent there before this? If so, leave it be. The rest of the truck can't be a gem anyways, so why fix that if you could put more dents in working or wheeling. If the truck is clean otherwise, fix it. And trust me, the cops want to help you with this one. There is nothing more that liberal union members like than pointing out why guns are bad

Not tackling anything. Late 86 pd so it's got the 4.0 firewall. Replacing doors, fenders, grille, hood. To put in 4.0, swap front inner fenders, front crossmember, and use 4.0 hood. Problem solved. Swapping a complete harness and the fuel lines plus fuel tank requires 5 hours. Swapping the engine/trans is more or less 5 hours, plus whatever is in there for cleanup on floors and interior, and the 7 hours needed for body panel swap. Axles aren't hard either. Should be a straightforward swap, this is not my first 86. Jeep driver, if you want the amc20, see what Rob says. I'm not going to give it away, though.

Police or point the gun right back at him, ask if he wants a few holes in his body. Tell me the piece of crap is in jail over the illegal and unwarranted discharge of a firearm

Empty Post

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-set-driveline-pinion-angles-1214507/ Using a dial indicator, make the axle pinion match the transfercase output angle. Remember that if you reposition the dial indicator by 180 degrees, you will have to invert the measurement of the opposing end by 180 degrees. So, if you measure the trans output at positive 7 degrees, then use the same side of the indicator on the axle pinion, do not set it at positive 7. Doing so will nose dive it down by 14 degrees from where you need to be. Positive 7 then flipping the indicator 180 degrees to use the same side means you need to set it at negative 7 degrees. Please tell me you have a 220v wire feed welder running 25/75. 110v welders have zero chance of achieving proper penetration on the axle tube unless you preheat the tube to 400 degrees before welding. Btw, 400 degrees is easy to get to and know you have gotten to. Grind the area where the welds will be. Then turn on the acetaline on the torch, with the acetaline only opened a smidge. You want it puffing black smoke. The score the ground-off area with the smoke to blacken it. Then turn on oxygen and set torch at proper mix, and proceed to heat. The blackened film will disappear at exactly 400 degrees. That will give you max penetration with a 110v welder.

Spring wrap has to do with length of perches. Buy the 7" long perches and use those. Rotational (driveshaft) torque can turn the pinion, but when you set pinion angle, on a simple two ujoint driveshaft, there is very simple criteria to follow: Pinion angle is to match the angle of the output shaft (obviously measuring with the gauge facing one side of the vehicle throughout the process). Our driveshafts are plenty long to safely do this without making contact with anything.

I had the header for one. No thanks.

Clear is tacky. Black I think might look good

Nvm, found. It http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-97-01-Projector-Halo-Angel-Eyes-LED-Headlights-Bumper-Lights-Black-/371052146387?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56646e6ed3&vxp=mtr

Have a link for those 97+ xj projector bezels? I actually like those...

Round headlights on a hard lined square body? Yuck. The plasti dip looks ok.

Call it dizz

I meant the 3800 is the best ever. 4.3 are decent, but why have that over a 350, and why bother with vortec as there is nothing good about gm intakes or fuel delivery in the vortec years.

No, they are the best v6 ever. I'm just not willing to do the work, because I won't ever buy an 86 for that purpose, and there is absolutely zero reason to do anything but a 4.0 swap. For the cost of a 4.3 bolt in, you can stroke and maybe even supercharge a 4.0

Only reason a convertible dakota is possible is full frame. That mj has no visible functional reinforcement

Sc3800 won't fit. I'm also not willing to help anyone with that swap. I would not put another 3800 in an mj

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/sno/4405504124.html

It's not too often that I see a topic such as this that doesn't turn out to be a redneck pile of junk. That's a nice rig, good work

Sell the motor, and go buy a parts Cherokee. Then bolt it all in. a 4.0 is LITERALLY bolt in to any 87+ xj or MJ. I'm sorry, but using what you have because you have it in no way, shape, or form, is the smartest choice. If you look at hp and torque, for the money you will spend, you get no benefit of going with something that doesn't belong in it. above and beyond that, EVERYONE does a chevy swap. and a common one at that. the 4.3 is dirt. put a 350 in it or pick something that's actually a decent motor. 350, mustang 5.0, etc. are the only worthy swaps for these trucks if you want to go beyond factory available parts. I'm not kidding when I say that there is at least $1500 in swap parts in this. There's a member who did this swap, regrets it, could never get it to run right with all bolt-on kit parts made by the pro's, and wishes he could afford to go back.

No, you don't. New trans will be necessary, so a chevy trans would be best. If your 2.5 is an 86, you would need to do a lot of custom work to the radiator support and convert it to 87+ 4.0 header support so you can use a 4.0 radiator. 87+ 4 cylinder already have the 4.0 core support with adapters to mount the 2.5 radiator. then either custom or expensive ready made motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, and painless wiring harness. And in the end, you end up with ZERO benefit over the 4.0. The 4.3 is literally a chevy 350 with two less cylinders. it costs the same to convert to a 350 as it does to a 4.3, which is about $1500 in parts before motor and trans.

Look at those big, strong arms :brows: Lol JK. Rob, we should both be ashamed that neither of us thought of the FSM

97+ xj light wiring. no pins from the xj side harness, but hey...it's a start. from the driver's kick panel WT/TN = brake (to be wired to turn signal multi switch) DG/RD = Left turn signal BR/RD = right turn signal BR/LG = reverse light from driver's kick panel, needs to be wired back to passenger. BR/YL = running lights I cannot recall which pin it was, but a test light will tell you. doing this will stop the interruption of the turn signal circuit.

You need a left and right brake wire. So pick one for left, splice it to it. One for right needs wire added to multiswitch. I do not remember the pin, you will need to use a test light to figure it out.

you don't run an extra wire. pick up the brake light wire in the driver footwell from the MJ, and run a wire from it to the multiswitch. I used a test light and individually tested the pins on the multiswitch while pressing the brakes to see which one lit up when braking. It's near the center of the switch. Very easy to do, and everything worked accordingly.

Been there done that. I used to have something to do for someone every single weekend. Whether it was for me, or (99% of the time) someone else, I never had "Me" time. Between owning 29 MJ's, roughly the same amount of XJs, and several other odd jeeps, plus a few other brand vehicles.... Well, let's just say my pole barn was full of parts. What this meant was people were always calling me for something or another, which was great...to a point. I kept getting bad apples. People would come for something at an agreed upon price (I priced out roughly 30% of what something was worth, which is why I sold a lot), and then when they got there they would see other things and try and do a "grouping purchase" of 5 more items on me for a measly $10 over what the first item was. Usually they were worth more than what they came for. The very last time that happened, a guy came for a 4.0/aw4/d30f/c8.25r4x4 front and rear driveshaft, both with brand new ujoints in them. $80 for the pair. Gets there, needs a couple pieces for interior, a door matching color to his mj in nice shape no rust no dents, etc. Offers me $100 for the pile, then he sees the pristine MJ tail lights that I had in the front of the rest of them. Has to have them. I sell them for $350/set to a guy in the UK at this point in time (when prices skyrocketed) and said he was there now, $250 so I don't have to deal with the hassle. After a bunch of back and forth and me saying there is no room to budge, and why, he gets agitated and calls me a cheapskate and inconsiderate (using pg terms here). That was it. I grabbed the lights, chucked them on the floor, stomped on them, told him get the eff out. Next day I called a buddy who lives 4 hours away. Told him "Do not make me any offers, do not offer me any money, I have separated the parts I NEED from my inventory, you can have the rest. You must take it all to get any of it". It was all gone within a week. He asked why I didn't want anything for them. Simple answer. I was sick of being offered nothing when I was asking for dirt, and a low offer was more offensive to me than giving it all away. I guess my point is, I understand your pain. You are not the only one, albeit for different reasons, who has ever felt that way. I haven't driven an MJ in 2 years. The ones we kept need work, one is my baby, one is my brothers. We looked at his this week and decided it is irreparable, so are stripping the MT axles, split rear window, and ax15 from it, scrapping the rest. Bought back my 87 (half through 99 conversion) last week, and will be fixing it, fixing my baby, and then I am done. I love being on this site, I like helping people. I don't like getting overwhelmed or disrespected to my face.