JeepcoMJ

Why do the mt springs have two overload leaves on them? Correct mt springs have a single overload with the pack actually making up the difference for load capacity. Just curious. Where did you get them?

Task has to come out. Long bed has 8 15mm bolts holding it to the frame. Spare tire winch tube needs to be removed, writing harness needs to be unclipped from holders, unplug y'all light harness from frame harnesses as well as license plate lights. Unbolt ebrake bracket from bed with 3 15mm bolts Disconnect exhaust from forward bed hangar, or Unbolt it from bed with 13mm socket and wrench If your tank has never been dropped, I suggest removing all bed to frame bolts, remove filler neck hoses with two clamps. From there, place a door Jack under the gas tank, and lift the front driver side corner of the bed. Doing this removes tension from the gas tank straps. That will let you pull the straps without ever turning a wrench in the bolts....meaning you can use a bench vice, ratchet wrench, and touch to get the nuts off the tank strap bolts, allowing you to save the stock hardware. One you do this, you can remove the bed with two people, and disconnect or strap up the gas tank after the fact. This process makes it 10x easier

Plastidip is for ricers. Do a good job, not a lazy one

Problem solved

Drill and tap the round spot below the right housing bolt for the small sensor. It will work

Did it come with calipers? If not, you need to buy 98 TJ calipers, rotors, drums

The lower gears are numerically higher. That negates your statement, as the lower the gear, the more torque transferred to the tires, the better the pulling powerYou make it sound like we are telling him to run 2.72 gears on a stock set of tires. That would put him at 4th gear being his last useful gear somewhere cerca 90mph, and his starting gear seeming like starting in 3rd gear with stock tires and gears. Rethink your understanding of gear ratios Suppose you were alone and you had to move a 1000lbs safe. You had a 2' bar and a 6' bar to use as levers. The 2' bar would require more strength, more energy, more EFFORT, the 6' bar would require less effort than the 2' bar to do the same amount of work. Same with gearing. The 2.72 gear would require more work from the engine to move the truck the same distance as a 4.11 gear would, the consequence is that you run out of RPMs earlier, as is his complaint. He has a 2.5 which has less energy or available effort to begin with, the 4.56 gear allows his engine to work less, if he were pulling a 3000lbs trailer up a hill he'd have more torque available to do the work.......ie.........longer lever. I have been standing here re reading this. Go back and read all my posts. We. Are. Saying. The. Same. Thing. The only thing we are not agreeing on is rpm, and tire size. The 2.5 is made to run over 3000. 70mph is about the best you could expect from one. The gears are perfect. 225 or 235 are perfect.

The lower gears are numerically higher. That negates your statement, as the lower the gear, the more torque transferred to the tires, the better the pulling power You make it sound like we are telling him to run 2.72 gears on a stock set of tires. That would put him at 4th gear being his last useful gear somewhere cerca 90mph, and his starting gear seeming like starting in 3rd gear with stock tires and gears. Rethink your understanding of gear ratios

Putting 31" tires with 4.56 is the same as swapping down to 3.73 gears on 225/70/16 It will not have a useful 5th gear, and will run at 1000 rpm outside of it's power band.

Power and of the 4cyl (optimum fuel mileage range) is 3200-3400 rpm or so. You are fine running 4.56, and should leave it alone. You honestly should go with 235, though. It will give you 80mph with no issues. Don't be afraid to run it in the higher rpm range. It is what it was built for.

Only thing swappable are knuckles brakes and shafts. Remember that the d30 had several different wheel bearings with spacing different on the knuckles throughout the years, so calipers, rotors, pads, and bearings are specific to the year of vehicle the axle came from. The gears cannot be swapped between low pinion and high pinion. 3" may be ok, but expect to need a custom driveshaft...you will be running the 4 cyl ax5 at full extension

Ax5 and 4 cylinder means it *might* have 4.10 gears. I have owned 4 of 7 different XJ's or MJ's with ax5 4 cyl that have had 3.55 and came from factory that way. That puts it at less than 50% of them I have seen or owned coming with 4.10s. You could order however you wanted them.

Ax5 manual, np207 tcase, amc20 rear, 4.11 gears. This is NOT something you donate axles from. That is a fixer vehicle. A good used motor shipped from France is under $3000, it is a $5500+ vehicle.

http://www.craigslist.org/about/best/wdc/4127662112.html Selling Heavily used, Antique, Non Functioning Government. Government quit working a while back, no one has been able to fix it. Currently requires obscene operating costs and multiple pointless individuals to manage it. Comes with own judicial system, executive branch and legislative branch, also comes with multiple pointless redundancies and non functioning programs. Commonly disrespects own laws and rarely accomplishes anything with a point. Contact Chinese Government for payment plan, asking price 17.2 trillion to cover previous operating expenses and debts. May need new parts including, President, Vice President, Congress, Senate, House of Representatives and multiple other replacements. Parts are easy to find and cheap to apply, must offer salaried position to each part and promise them they are safe and more important than other employes of governments. If shutdown occurs again please make sure to feed congress and president or else they will get pissy and throw a fit. Please do not feed after midnight and keep away from water, may cause gremlin like destruction of country.

Tj axle is low pinion...hope u r not lifting it

There is no viable "feel" of difference between h.o. And renix. There is certainly. Ugh to be said about the renix cam shafts and their lift duration increasing low end torque, at lower rpm than the hp to torque curve on an h.o.....but that is as simple as a cam swap. Really, it's just remedial mechanics. I will take an h.o. And it's simplicity as well as parts availability and interchangeability over renix any day. The Renault/bendix system was used for a wopping 3 years before the h.o. Came in...and much of the h.o. Did not change for the better part of a decade, as far as function and required voltages of the sensors. Frankly, the h.o. Opens you to an obd2 swap, which is one hell of a step up for ease of maintenance to the lay mechanic.

Benjy, the 5th gear is more or less bolt in if you find a junk trans to strip the shift rails from

Basically the ax5 is fine behind less than 150hp. Over that, you can't tow or use a heavy foot.

100% true

That truck belongs stripped and in a salvage yard. Save the parts, scrap the rest. $600 is generous. There is not one good thing about any single body panel, axles, engine, or trans. There is literally $300 in parts there. Max.

I have experienced slip after as little as 3000 miles on resurfaced 4.0 flywheels. Swapped flywheel with used, clutch still looked new, solved issue

Only the bed is nicer than mine. My tailgates are all rust free, or OEM never had paint. And I haven't owned an MJ without metric ton rear end for a loooong time.

Nope. Just figured knowing it's there would be good for price point comparison on the guys who have built there own here on the club.

The flywheels are concave, so a straight machine job could give you a problematic clutch when you put miles on it.

I like that full aluminum. Any feedback on it?