JeepcoMJ

rear bumper stripped the plastics (except bumper caps) from the bumper so that I could paint it painted with new liscense plate lights

and the family of three with the tan MJ is pretty sweet, because it has bucket seats :eek:

completely untrue. if you buy it at $400 plus a towing fee, and just take the seats and such that you want, you will be able to likely resale the entire drivetrain with wiring for $300-$500 at the very least, and still have a few body panels, windows, etc. left to sell, OR just buy it, take what you want, and pass it on for $100 less to be done with it. either way, just please don't let it get scrapped. where are you located?

that looks like a fun time :D been awhile since we've seen you here...how have you been?

it is independant of the tank, though I think you could probably set it up to be the tank holder itself. it's held on by 7 bolts, 5 of which are 9/16" thread, two of which are 3/8" thread, all of which are grade 8. don't think the tank would go anywhere...but you'd have to build kind of a cradle for it.

87 has 3.55's or 3.73's, and the 91 probably has 3.07's no strict set-in-stone rules for jeeps, it was all buyer-option on what they preferred for parts.

mm. not really this isn't a process that you're going to be able to go over with a book. you will just need to remove everything from the 1991, and put it all in a different MJ just like it was in the 1991. it's kind of a go-as-you-will project, that you ask questions on as you go. I could tell you each and every detail right now, but it would take around two pages, and probably give me a huge headache... :roll:

welder's don't cut, they weld. yes, floors have to be cut out. I wouldn't bother. take what you want from the truck, and sell the rest for parts to another guy on the club. the H.O. motor, trans, wiring (engine bay and dash), all interior and exterior accessories will need to be removed to swap it to a H.O. including the computers and such

make sure everything is salvaged, even the floors. swap your truck over to the H.O. wiring while you're at it. sell the remainder of it because it's a good cab with a good title too, because a 91 eliminator truggy would be sweet!

pics truck done other than rear bumper and bleed brakes front skid front skid again this shows the angles transfercase skid...I painted it white t-case skid again rear view of the skid front of gas tank skid rear of skid front of skid again I mounted the t-case and gas tank skids with 9/16" coarse threaded grade 8 hardware and lock washers. tapped the frame rails and drilled out the holes on the skids to match. unfortunately though, I forgot to put the rear bumper on today...will do it tomorrow night

re-updated.

done except for fluid check. and re-bleed brakes again. got all factory skids installed (they cleaned up nicely :brows: ) pics later tonight

no it wasn't. I believe it was an add-on to the tow package or off-road package. dana 44 equip was found in swb too, and I know my swb had bigger springs in it.

pete, the "big ton" package (metric tonne) was offered on shortbeds at one point or another...there's a few members on here with the heavier duty leaf pack and shortbeds IIRC

I find the results interesting...so far the majority is to McCain. i voted for the old guy too

looks good so far pete as for the other three gallons, send them my way...my bro's MJ could use a spray, and the shop is kept at 70 degrees right now anyways because of some other things drying (yay restoring vintage sleds/building mods )

I forgot to do mine today, and am now on my way to work. :cry: :oops: the truck is aligned, skid plates up front and for the t-case are installed, and it's ready for the rear bumper tomorrow. I'm losing sleep today and tomorrow before working the night shifts...but I will be ready. after the rear bumper, it's just cleaning and installing the gas tank skid and bleeding the brakes, then going over the idler pulleys :D

what he said. easiest is to get a motor from 87-91 that was from a vehicle with the same transmission as yours (no need to change the flexplate/flywheel then)

check out the tailgate. they commonly rust out around the windshield frame, and are fairly hard to find (for a decent price). plus, if it's rusted there I'm sure it's rusted elsewhere

lol...make sure you back up all of this weeks posts bfore the updated update :cheers: :brows: thanks for all the effort so far!

special thanks to 89eliminator and his dad for finish welding my shock mounts for me. (I suck at welding, can only tac-weld, and a little BeccaMig 140 welder isn't gonna penetrate well enough...so I went to their house and he welded up for me) oh, in case you haven't guessed, that means that I now have *new* rear shocks and mounts that will not make the axle fall off :roll: :brows: . refurbished (cleaned and painted) a set of xj 4.5" rear shocks, which measure 25" eye to eye at full extension, and 15.25" eye to eye at full compression. set them with 3" of up-travel and 6.75" of down-travel, as the bump-stop is set accordingly...so now the rear should flex decently without stuffing 100% in the wheel well. also installed an extended rear vent line, and now I'm moving on to the front. extending the front upper control arms by 1/8" to correct the pinion angle, then re-aligning the steering, then tomorrow I can install the skid plates and wheeling flag :D, tomorrow the new ICM comes in for the truck so I will be able to drive it reliably pics wade also gave me a whip flag for the badlands run, and I mounted that as well. here's the shocks I used; you can see the left shock is the dirty/grungy one, the right shock is the clean one. they clean up nice when you wire wheel the paint off completely. they are 4.5" lift rear rough country shocks for an XJ , with the bar-pins removed and sleeves pressed in the lower ends. complete length eye to eye is 25", compressed is 15.25". this gives 9.75" of travel. next you will see the shock mounts. they're two tabs on each shock which allow the shock to sit between them. wish I'd had more light for the pics. where I located them allows the shock to sit at 18.75" with the truck at a stand-still on level ground. it allows 3.75" of up-travel, which is perfect since that's about what the bump-stops allow (I will be extending them tomorrow) and will keep the wheels out of the inner fender. this also allows me 6" of down-travel as well. not too shabby at zero cost to me :D shocks clean left one installed right one installed left one, this showing the mounts. again, sorry for the lighting and official badlands flag-whip installed tomorrow I just need to spray up the rear bumper and install it, then tighten up a little bit of the front end, align the steering, and install the skid plates. bleed brakes too...oh, and install the front axle vent line... :oops:

eh. I disagree with the availability part...I've not once seen a TJ in the junkyard that was intact by any means, and I've only seen one at that. the seats would probably be too high for my taste (in the headrest area) and require more mounting work to be done, not less (they don't mount on the same tracks even)

best friend. 95 xj with 231 t-case. engaged 4wd at 70mph on dry pavement the night before he shipped out from iraq, 7 hours from the airport he was to ship from. had to go tow him back and get him shipped out...he gave me the truck as payment. it was completely caput lol.

pics wade also gave me a whip flag for the badlands run, and I mounted that as well. here's the shocks I used; you can see the left shock is the dirty/grungy one, the right shock is the clean one. they clean up nice when you wire wheel the paint off completely. they are 4.5" lift rear rough country shocks for an XJ , with the bar-pins removed and sleeves pressed in the lower ends. complete length eye to eye is 25", compressed is 15.25". this gives 9.75" of travel. next you will see the shock mounts. they're two tabs on each shock which allow the shock to sit between them. wish I'd had more light for the pics. where I located them allows the shock to sit at 18.75" with the truck at a stand-still on level ground. it allows 3.75" of up-travel, which is perfect since that's about what the bump-stops allow (I will be extending them tomorrow) and will keep the wheels out of the inner fender. this also allows me 6" of down-travel as well. not too shabby at zero cost to me :D shocks clean left one installed right one installed left one, this showing the mounts. again, sorry for the lighting and official badlands flag-whip installed tomorrow I just need to spray up the rear bumper and install it, then tighten up a little bit of the front end, align the steering, and install the skid plates. bleed brakes too...oh, and install the front axle vent line... :oops:

special thanks to 89eliminator and his dad for finish welding my shock mounts for me. (I suck at welding, can only tac-weld, and a little BeccaMig 140 welder isn't gonna penetrate well enough...so I went to their house and he welded up for me) oh, in case you haven't guessed, that means that I now have *new* rear shocks and mounts that will not make the axle fall off :roll: :brows: . refurbished (cleaned and painted) a set of xj 4.5" rear shocks, which measure 25" eye to eye at full extension, and 15.25" eye to eye at full compression. set them with 3" of up-travel and 6.75" of down-travel, as the bump-stop is set accordingly...so now the rear should flex decently without stuffing 100% in the wheel well. also installed an extended rear vent line, and now I'm moving on to the front. extending the front upper control arms by 1/8" to correct the pinion angle, then re-aligning the steering, then tomorrow I can install the skid plates and wheeling flag pics later tonite :D, tomorrow the new ICM comes in for the truck so I will be able to drive it reliably