JeepcoMJ

the phrase "resistance is futile" comes to mind.

huh. I'd be screwed. I only recall a couple comanches that I've bought for over $300... :P

I payed $2000 on the paint job on my 86 back in 2004/2005 (that winter). the deal was a base/clear eggshell white, and proper rust replacement. I cut out all of the new body parts for it (it needed a new pass. side inner wheel well, and a new pass. side bedside flare area....just where the flare mounted, as the rust didn't spread above it at all). we did all the panel replacement on it. we did all of the rust removal on it. we even removed the gas tank and loosened the bed, and removed all of the door handles, windshield trim, cab vents, etc. they were supposed to remove the rear window and paint inside the frame. what I got: one step hardnose paint job, fiberglass/bondo EVERYWHERE, no rear window removal, and bed was never removed. 1 year later I got: ROTTED cab corners. the interior was gutted when they were working on it, and they threw their sandpaper and scraps inside the cab corners. I was 17 at the time and this was my first street vehicle build with my dad, and didn't think to check before I reassembled it. I KNOW it's their crap because the sandpaper sanding block that was left in one of them had their logo on it. all this crap in the cab corners clogged up the drain holes, causing the cab corners to fill with water (presumably from the cab vents) and rot out. end result: I will NEVER pay for a paint job again. I bought/traded for all the tools I'd need, and when I redo the truck this time, it will be a proper paint job. BTW 1 year for $2000 was not worth it. it's been 4 years since the paint job and I'm just now repainting it. but then, it did also get hit in the bed so it is necessary more than ever. you get what you pay for. $2000 is dirt cheap when it comes to a paint job where they do the prep work (sanding etc.). if you do the prep and then just pay for paint, you won't get any guarantee on the paint. but then again, if it turns out bad then it's yourself to blame for bad prep work most of the time. be wary of where you take it to get painted. ask for references when you do go in for an initial assessment on the cost.

kickass, sweet effin awesome. yup, I love them. my brother has them on his xj too. they're GREAT on-road, GREAT off-road. the jeep rode like a cadillac before I stopped driving it (can't track down the steering pop, and have some projects to do to it). would I buy them again? yup. even if they were $500.

I want to try, but can't/won't because it's a jeopordization of my job and my future. that said, I only want to try BECAUSE it is illegal. legalization gives us the chance to tax it, which turns weed smokers into an aid to society...taking them 180 degrees from where they are now. they'll still do it, but they'll actually pay in on it. yes you could still acquire it from other means but that's the same with everything else we consume. Furthermore, if it's illegal, people are more enticed to smoke. legalized, the fun is taken out of it. example: I drank A TON before I turned 21. now 3 beers is more than enough, and more than once a month is uncommon for me. being legally able to drink toook the fun out of it. now, if I get caught, big deal as long as I'm not disobeying the other laws associated with it.

hopefully someone else can chime in on that. I would just build my own so I haven't followed on kits in awhile. I wouldn't buy ANYTHING from Rock Krawler tho, cause RK fits suck I wouldn't buy ANYTHING from Motion Offroad

it's made for a cherokee. the comanche has cab bracings in different locations. you'll need to remove those to make it fit. I wouldn't buy it though. if you have ANY drivetrain failures on the trail (i.e. trans, t-case) then you cannot effect any trail repair. in order to access those parts, you must first support the body then literally REMOVE the front links, then drop the entire belly skid. that system sucks. I would buy a 4 link setup instead. y-links are notorious for unloading on a hill climb and poor weight distribution because they tend to unseat the downward flexing coil, removing all weight from that tire.

it's a single shear with a TRE end. the TRE is what is adjustable, and it is also replaceable. mounts to factory. it's not a bad track bar, and if it ever fails RC will replace it no questions asked.

you know, they're gonna charge extra to reassemble that with the parts that are in the bed....I would call them and tell them to just paint it and leave it alone.

*shrug*. I posted mine for sale awhile back. there were no bites. I just need to tighten up the tilt mechanism and put it back together. has a nice 3 spoke steering wheel with a chrysler center cover. it's black.

not true. I've had two short beds with m/t packs in them. the springs are IDENTICAL between lwb and swb in length and mounting location, and Jeep was very inclined to let their buyers have what they wanted.

no. 98 ECU is not compatible AT ALL with your wiring and engine, and vice-versa. the 98 trans has some extra sensors etc. and it probably won't work without someohow modifying it. i don't know what the mods would be, I just know you're better off going with a 96 and older trans/t-case. the cherokee rear axle is NOT bolt-in. the comanche spring perches are spring-under and wider thann the cherokees. the cherokees are spring-over and narrower than the comanches. nonononononononononononononononono the automatic trans uses a flex plate. the manual uses a flywheel. so, because the crankshaft position sensor operates off of the flywheel/flexplate "windows", and because the H.O. is timed differently than the renix era, those "windows" are different. thus, the flywheel/flexplate are NOT interchangeable. FYI you have to change some wiring to do an auto conversion as well, and you need a factory auto trans ECU

20ish hour drive? have fun heading this way.

no

lol. it stays right at 210 so far with a factory thermostat. I'm gonna be putting a lower t-stat in it because it warms up extremely quick even in the winter...and with the block heater I can keep it warm and ready (just the way I like it :yes: ) it'll be getting a cowl hood tho soon as I get time to build one.

*shrug* idk why you're cutting down on your skills. from what I can see, it looks good. the ONLY thing I'd do different (again, from what I can tell in the pics), is extend the side mounts a bit (like 2") and add two bolts through the frame with crush sleeves. I probably woulda also used clevis mounts instead of weld-on d rings. that's a personal choice...d ring mounts work good too :D

someone else will have to take the reigns. looks like vzehler's account is not active (and not existant) anymore.

We didn't get the idea from you. If we were so dumb we depended on you for ideas, I'd kill myself. (I think it's ironic, that while calling us idiots, you spelled idiots wrong.) intentional mis-spelling. redneck terminology. lurnt it in rednek 101. *shrug* say you did, say you didn't, but it was brought up when I voted confidence in 89eliminator first. regardless, it's a stupid pointless idea. we don't have a large enough community for it. Thanks Pete for keeping this under control so far.

I'm perfectly happy recieving zero notifications. they clog up my email. I don't check it for weeks or months, and then I have to mass delete. no thread subscriptions for this guy...I just try to remember what I've posted in.

I agree. I'm sorry I even brought up a president for greatlakes subforum. I'm to blame for putting ideas in those two idjits heads :doh: :wall: I'd like them better in the pub as well

I would agree with that. It's just like clothes on short fat people (me), don't wear horizontal stripes! :clapping: Wait, your fat. I thought that was the blowfishes fault. I like green. I don't want this crap in my threads. thanks.

thanks man. I'm surprised this thread got drug up a few weeks later. I'll be starting on paint when I get back from PA in a couple weeks. bed is coming off and not going back on...stepside. stepside box will be the same green, flat fenders will be black. going to do tube front fenders too I think.

I'm not even gonna attempt to help here really. man, seriously. DO NOT build the sliders without the truck present. get the truck, fab the mounts and mount them, then build the rest. you're not gonna get it done and looking proper any other way.

haha. easy. just get the proper speedo gear and call it good. speedo gear is deduced by tire size and gear ratio

No worries Cody. I can drag it part of the way too if needed. Thanks man, I'm tryin to figure out for sure what I'm gonna be upagainst with the 8.8 and I'll let you know asap. I need to figure out what gears are in my truck now so I can figure out if the 3:73's will be a big difference or not. -Cody whether they are or aren't a big difference, if the gears are not within a few points of being identical, you won't be able to use 4wd. end of story.