JeepcoMJ

Hmmmm. So I can get the axle for 75.00 and a cover for 100.00 more. The only problem would be getting the daymn thing off with only hand tools... :roll: cordless sawzall, or propane torch. it's really not hard to get the axle out. you can still buy stock diff covers used or new for them.

:agree: The 4.3 is, as noted, just a shortened small-block V8. It's a 90-degree engine that's really too wide to fit easily into an XJ or MJ engine compartment. You will need all the adapters and such you would need to do a V8 conversion, but you lose two cylinders. A MUCH better swap is the 3.4L V8 from rear wheel drive GM cars like the Camaro and Firebird. It's a 60-degree engine, so it's a lot narrower. Also, it happens to be physically the same block as the 2.8L that was used in the early XJs and MJs, so mounts, manifolds and brackets don't have to be custom fabricated. that's only ideal in the case of a 2.8 or 2.5 upgrade to a 3.4...it's much, much less than ideal to go from a 4.0 to a 3.4.... a 4.0 and buick 3800 are in the same class hp-wise, with just as much aftermarket support for either. the 3800 actually has a higher hp and torque rating than a 4.0 too, plus a supercharger is extremely easy on a 3800, with the only real issue being where to put the darn throttle body since it would point directly into the firewall. but...if you're going to upgrade from a 4.0 then the only real consideration is a 350. going from a good, strong running 6 cylinder to a 6 cylinder that's known to have issues is just not the greatest idea on earth and offers little to no gain.

the 4.3 is arguably the WORST V6 out there. well, the vortec is. that said, just about any vortec is just plain junk with too many electrical components to fail, and poorly designed vacuum/fuel line systems a 4.3 is a 305 with 2 less cylinders. if you're gonna put a 4.3 in, put a 350 in...it's just two more cylinders and the exact same mounts and radiator system. if you want a v6, I suggest the series two or newer buick 3800...you can draw mean hp from them, can get them already supercharged (and easy to modify for more hp), and the only real problem with them is the throttle body gaskets like to crap out...and they carry coolant to keep the TB from frosting up due to the extremely high air flow coming in. much more superior and much more reliable than any 4.3 will ever be.

reuse your d35 spring mounts if you wish...from the sounds of it, you're going SOA on the rear? then build new shock mounts.

correy (geonovast) does too much work to pull the motors. I unbolt the alternator or a/c compressor and use one of those holes on the pass. front. I use the rear driver's side head bolt (it has a stud on it), I usually wrap a chain through between the power steering pump and intake manifold after I disconnect the hoses and drain that, and then I also get a longer bolt to go in the pass. dipstick/ground wire bolt. that way you don't have to pull the motor apart while it's in the engine bay. I ALWAYS reinstall the way correy does, by putting the motor together after it's in the truck.

k. i like those guys they know just how to piss me off lol.

I'm betting MJslaya IS ben.

my dad and I restore/rebuild sleds and because of that we have alot of parts run through our place...we had two of them last year but sold them. I'll have him keep his eyes open for you. -Pat

grrr that daytona SHOULD NOT be in a JY

that's an accurate price. had an offer 2 years ago for my dad's rusted out 86 MJ X diesel (comanche x is accurate btw) for $3500 and like I said...it's RUSTY with 260k and has some motor issues. BTW, an MJ diesel would be #2 in rarity if you go by how many are in the states...by my last count, I have only been able to locate 23 in the states. there were 100 street MJ's (all in the states) and 1 thunder chief (again, only in the states).

I had a pair on ebay once that a guy gave me $300 for with bases.

I'm sorry, i never meant it to be derogatory towards any members of this site. just that I really don't feel the site itself is worth the scraps in my garbage.

that thread is probably the only thing that's ever piqued my interest on JF...pretty much everything else there is garbage. damn you just all about bashing every other site aren't you? sorry, nope. J-O has merit as worthless, as i believe I've previously discussed with you, and glxj has merit as worthless as well, by virtue of who is associated with ownership of it. that said, it's a good thing i don't moderate/own any sites because they'd also be worthless by association in the eyes of some. *shrug* I'm sorry to express my opinions of another site.

The ballast resistor isn't relayed into the FP circuit until after the engine starts. But I suppose it might be a good idea to jumper it out since there's no telling what a previous owner might have done. ballast resistor is part of the FP system at all times with ignition on. remove one connector from the resistor and turn the key to IGN and the pump will not prime.

that thread is probably the only thing that's ever piqued my interest on JF...pretty much everything else there is garbage.

you will make the vehicle worthless for resale by doing what you propose. almost everyone I know would consider it a parts vehicle if they knew how much structural integrity was breached by doing something along those lines. there is a comanche in socal that the guy did just what you are proposing, and he has it for sale. he cannot sell it, because the work he has into it is more value than the truck itself, as well as the fact that it's really not necessarily safe (in the eyes of purchasers) because we have no realistic idea of how badly the structure was affected. the frames are identical from the front foot wells to the grille. that said, i can't offer a legal resolution for you...but I'm sure that someone who can do the work you're suggesting can come up with a solution. oh, check with your DMV...IIRC the DMV can give you a custom vehicle title if you can prove that it has more parts of something else in it than what it came with. -Pat

NOTHING. custom built. there is not a framed vehicle worth using the drivetrain off of to swap under the MJ that has the proper wheel base. axles, I'd use 44 front and rear. you could go with 60's but they're not significantly stronger than a 44 if you're considering a realistic view that your MJ is not the worlds toughest truck, will not be hauling a significant pay load to justify it, and you need at least 35" tires to get the same clearance on the bottom of the diff as you would with 44's and 31" tires. why are you considering a frame? please don't say it's for body lift.

a 4.0 swap is simple enough, and you can acquire the parts to do it for a decent price. don't pass up a good body just because it's not a 6 cyl.

whether or not it's electric or cable speedo is no matter. as geonovast stated, the speedo "holder" is different between 207 and 231. you can use any cable driven 231 speedo gear "holder" to thread onto your cable...but, you will need a new speedometer gear as they're NOT interchangeable. there were a few different tail housings on the ax5 5 speed/ax4 4 speed that is in your truck (unless it's an auto)...the differences being what sort of input shaft depth the seal is set up for. you can get a seal cross referenced to make up for the difference in input length on the t-case.

2.5 liter... carb in 84 to early 86 cherokees. fuel injected in ALL comanches. 86-90 was TBI fuel injection, 91-92 was multi-port fuel injection (MPFI) motors are strong, they last. decent gas mileage, but you can tune a 6 cyl to get the same mileage as a TBI 4 cyl. mpfi 4 cyl will get a steady 18-22mpg, more if you drive like a grandma. if the truck is nice, the lack of power can be resolved later. there isn't much more than an aftermarket header available for a 4 banger, they don't have great power (though they arguably have more power than a 2.8 V6). 4 cyl gears will be 4 speed...3.55/3.73 with 3.55 being the most common 5 speed...3.73, 4.10, 4.56 with 4.10 being the most common... though some ended up with 3.55's (hardly any did) auto...4.10, 4.56, with 4.56 being most common...though 4.88's are a very, very small possibility a 4 cyl 5 speed with 4.10 gears will perform well as a d/d. oh, and expect high RPM...but don't freak out about it. a 4 cyl's ideal power band is 2900-3300RPM. they're designed for it. -Pat

in cali it's worth $350 to $650. in WI it's worth $250 to $550. that's if you don't buy it from a shop. I have two of them, paid $150 for one with bad bearings, and paid $75 for the complete running/driving parts cherokee that the other one came out of...with 120k on the ticker. search before you buy, don't get too desperate.

my 86...the 3800. this was in late april, 2005 the interior...which has now been swapped to oem black buckets. currently being restored...again. restorations "begin" in about a month. it's powered by a 96 camaro 3800 v6 that I swapped in place of the 2.8. also dakota ax15 bellhousing, ax15, np242 tcase, d44 rear, factory 3.73 gears d30 front (converted from 2x to 4x). it was hit in the driver's bedside by an idiot driver, and the body shop screwed up the paint job.

oh, wiper motor too and headlight harness.

engine trans transfercase engine wiring engine bay accessories radiator (you already have a 4.0 rad support so long as the MJ is 87+) computer(s) fuel lines fuel pump (sending unit needs changed) all dash accessories, heater box if you want the a/c to work/if you have it, dash wiring shifters. then you need to add in a brake light wire on the dash harness and splice everything for the rear lights and fuel pump.

did the same mod, but used the lathe with a cutting die to turn down the 97+ handle (die on spinning end of course). great write-up Paul.