JeepcoMJ

eesh. good luck. my right eye doesn't work properly when it comes to light adjustment...got a metal shard in the iris when I was building the 3800.

wow, don...that's just livin on the edge. I'm sorry your daughter has to go through this stress, and sorry that that teacher didn't off herself instead of someone innocent.

the person interested in it helped the PO build the bumper, so I'll assume he's gonna want it.

with the VW's, just stay away from the VR6 series motor. they're quick, and they run great...until the timing tensioners blow.

Gil (bullykatz) has another LWB eliminator in kenosha, wi that I set him up with...came from a guy a mile from my parents house, but it was not a "WI price" so I personally passed on it.

lol, thanks. that circle is the only spot of rust on the truck...

Are you sure the front flares will fit the rear properly? They angle out in the front to offset the curve of the front fender. yep, they will. remember, my truck is trimmed up, and I can't use the 97+ flare clips anyways, so I can trim them to make them fit how I need them to. the point is, they fit the wheel well opening just about perfect.

uhm... you kind of NEED that front crossmember that you cut out.... sooo now you need to figure out how to make up for not having it. especially with the power that motor will make...you really don't want to start tweaking the frame, and trust me..while that little sheet metal crossmember may not appear to do much, it IS very structural.

very nice! why on earth would anyone want to send her to the crusher? she looks like she's had ALOT of work done, and is nearly mint body-wise...

compliments of some trading with brent ($500mj), 97 front end (brent, I'll make it there this week with the vent wing windows and two 10 slot grilles, once the snow lets up) out with the old in with the new not sure on whether I want to just bolt the flares on, or raise them then bolt them. either way, I figured out 97+ xj front flares will be just about perfect on the rear...

floor board clearance

LP means low pinion, btw.

an amc eagle would be pretty cool with a 4.0, 5 speed, and np242 with a solid front and rear (d30, d44), some lift, and a set of 31's. but it would be hard to wheel...you sit low enough in them that it would be hard to see obstacles.

yeah don't look like I'm gonna make it...truck won't be done.

...yeah, I rebuilt and installed a 4.0 motor in a '95 xj once, with the proper '95 flexplate...and realized that, once I had motor in, the torque converter wouldn't bolt up...because some yahoo used a 93 motor in it with a 93 torque converter before then. there are several different torque converters ranging through the years.

yep. the other thing is that any aw4 fron 1991 on up is 23 spline output, and the ax15's all were as well. renix era aw4, and ba10/5 were only 21 spline outputs...so, if that's what you have, you'll either need a new tcase, or a new input shaft.

the torque converter bolt holes won't line up. you'll have to redrill your flex plate, or use a renix era torque converter.

agreed...neither. if it takes some $$$, get yourself good shocks...because $#!&ty shocks end up going to hell, and replacing them with $#!&ty shocks will still result in you spending the same amount had you bought nice shocks from the get-go.

like a good packer fan, and a good favre fan, I frankly didn't give a damn who won... that said, I caught the tail end of it and it was def. a good game...

after fighting the old pilot bearing/sleeve for an hour and a half, it's out. also come to find that the clutch that was in it looks like brand new. cleaned the flywheel, pressure plate, put the new pilot bushing in, waiting for the brake clean to dry before putting the clutch in. prepped the trans with the proper shifter stuff and tightened down the np242. gonna go back outside and toss her together now :D

no one does. you're gonna have to use the parts from a donor.

glue, sealant...same thing. problem is, it won't set in the 20 degree weather we have here...

my pass. window glass in the split rear on my '90 mj is shattered...anyone have a good idea for me to replace it without having to pull the whole slider frame out? ...I can't do that until it's warmer because the glue would never dry (however I do have the skills and knowledge to do that so please keep the tech in reference to the actual question)

use a compression T of that size, and cut the schraeder end off of the lines, long enough to use that in the center of the T easy.

I got lots of speedo gears (34 and 35 tooth seem to be the flavour of the day...), and a 96 aux. fan. brent got some front end pieces my friend jake got 97+ door seals for his xj, and 97+ flares can't recall what whowey got aaron (another body of mine...not on the forum) got two '99 fuel pressure regulators and 6 99 injectors for his DD xj rob got a 99 intake manifold, and an xj wing back seat that's in real nice shape (4dr, grey) can't recall much else except that i traded brent a very decent MJ stock rear bumper with class 3 hitch, a couple of header panels, lots of chrome, and a driver's side 96 and older fender...still owe him some parts. that deal got me his complete '97 front end conversion, which is going on my wheeler.