JeepcoMJ

http://appleton.craigslist.org/pts/1630139299.html 32 x 11.5 bf goodrich all terrain with american racing rims.... hitch reciever make offer (resonable) among other parts off a jeep camanche that was rolled...lot of good parts except hood, right door n tailgate.... no emails...920-517-8435 any time please message if no answer Image Not Found it WAS sooooo clean. I saw it around 4 years ago @ an AMC show in kenosha. what a freakin waste!

oh, 3 yakima roof rack bars came with the '97. not sure if I'm going to use them

I sold my '90 eliminator to a local last week...didn't have time to finish it for him, but it's darn close. The reason I sold it is that the money I got from it paid for both a '97 xj, and a '98 xj. the '97 is fixable, the '98 is parts. '97 is 4.0, auto, 4x4, 8.25 rear, 3.55 gears. has tow package, A/C, cd (aftermarket), premium sound, power mirrors. needs new front driver's fender, bumper, header panel, radiator (leaks from drain valve...may be repairable), steering column (ignition is screwed, column doesn't lock), and windshield. paid $550 '98 is 4.0, 5 speed, 4x4, 8.25 rear, 3.07's, all power but seats, no cruise, a/c, CD (aftermarket). new radiator, h20 pump. paying $400. '97 '98 the '97 has some engine issues..won't stay running. I'm going to do a full tune up, oil change, and drain fuel then put new fuel in it. The PO had a coolant leak, redneck fixed it, and put h20 in the rad. before the winter. hoping the motor isn't cracked, but if it is, I am doing a full on 5 speed conversion using the '98 as parts. also will be putting full power from the '98 into the '97 as well.

incorrect. please read before you post.

look in the DIY section for the thread about the difference between the ba10/5 and the ax15. if you have a ba10/5, you need a t-case with 21 splines, with the proper length input. if you have an ax15, you need a 23 spline t-case with proper length input.

I've had 3 kawasaki cordless drills. they were gifts. now I know why (they're CRAP)

exactly. my bumper is the lowest point now and i still hit the quarters. thanks for the advice everyone. yes, and when you cut the quarters where I cut mine, and box that area in with stronger steel, it will ramp right off of the heavier steel and you won't have the issues of fubaring the bed quarters.

pics of the gun with iron sights removed and new 2-7x32 U.A.G. scope with UTG mount. all is reversible :D when I got it I just bought an ATI matte black stock for it...more of the barrel will be exposed, but the stock is a little longer in the shoulder area (which I desperately need), and it looks sportier. all of this is 100% reversible :D

i buy junk jeeps for those prices that are totalled but run and drive. then I sell the motors and stuff that I don't need at prices that undercut what you guys are posting by FAR. end result....I think people who would pay $450 for an ax15 are nuts...but they can come right on over and buy mine.

almost fixed. sold today for $1050 to a kid who's friends with 89eliminator. only sold it because it's a decent profit, and I know of a 97 xj I'm gonna look at getting for a DD...I already have trucks, don't need another one if I can opt for passenger space.

may not gain clearance, but gains room to build sliders in the back to keep stuff off of the rest of that area of the bed.

remember that xj cherokee rear axles are NOT bolt-in. you will need a welder capable of welding thick steel, and new perches, plus something to grind the xj perches off, and an angle finder to set the pinion angle.

I know you have money invested in the ax15 parts...but you're probably not going to get that much for a complete package. you'd be better off selling parts seperate, or asking less...I bought a complet one for $200 with clutch, master, slave, throwout, and flywheel. granted, those parts were used...but it was cheap and even then, I didn't have any concerns about the master or slave failing since it was external and replaceable should it fail.

you have access to mine since it's already trimmed up, to make plans based off of it.

yep, they're brand new.

:ack:

no cat. no funny noises from the motor.

I've got a friend with a 1987 mj, 4.0 auto. won't rev above 3400 rpm. have swapped ECU, TCU, ALL engine sensors including TPS, IAC, IAT, ICM, and distributor. the only thing I haven't done is swapped the CPS. haven't ohm'd it out or anything, either. the odd thing is that the CPS appears higher on the bellhousing than typical. there are two different positions (approx. 1/2" difference) where it can mount on this bellhousing. this jeep originally came from colorado and so I'd assume that's a high altitude thing, but don't quote me on that. anyways, I'm thinking I need to put the CPS in the lower of the two mounting positions, but wanted to get your guys opinions. and no, I don't have pics of the CPS locations...nor will I have any. Thanks, Pat

rookies :roll:

He's also swapping from an auto into a manual. Good to see you here Waytec. :cheers: yeah, I was just pointing out the differences in torque converters, too. the converters are basically the same, but they bolt to the flexplate in different locations. if you're going 5 speed, and converting to H.O., make sure you have a 5 speed engine harness and similar year dash harnes (any trans option), with a 5 speed ECU.

Really that 30-30 is all you need .. :thumbsup: I've got a lever action that throws high shock rounds through 3/16 like butter . I'm a big Lever 30-30 fan . eh. I like the 30-30, but it's so damned short and stubby. I'm more of a sniper type of guy. first time hunting, first time I shot a buck, first time I shot a gun bigger than a BB or .22, I dropped a 7 pointer with one clean shot from 250 yards with that 30-06. blew off the other side of his head, ruined the mount, but got some good venison :D

yep. I was out target shooting with a friend who's got an AR15/.22 cal. his target is a 3/16" steel plate on a post that's mounted to a rim....blew a hole right through that with my 30-30, and a bigger hole with the russian. I'm definitely a fan. Right now, besides the mosin-nagant, I have a remington 870 express with slug and buck barrels, the winchester 30-30, and a couple of older remington .22's (one needs repaired, it was my great-grandpa's when he was a kid). the 30-06 will eventually be mine, and IIRC my dad has something that he told me when I was younger was an "elephent gun"

to do a true H.O. swap, you need engine, flywheel/flexplate, the corresponding torque converter for the flex plate, ALL engine sensors, ALL electrical components, ALL wiring from the dash all the way forward, and the trans. harness and trans speed sensor.

my room mate just gave me his 1943 mosin nagant M44 (M91/30) for part of his rent, and I'm looking to sportsterize it (for lack of better word). thing is, I've got all of the paperwork on the gun dating back to 1943, so anything I do to it I want completely reversible. I already bought a scope mount for it...was going to build one, but for $30, I got one that goes straight in place of the original iron sites. Also got a sniper bolt for it on the way...the handle for that bends down 90 degrees so it opens with the scope on it. I've got (i think) a 5x60 scope that used to be on my dad's 30-06 cleveland, but he's since put the military scope back on that. Anyways, the last thing I'd like to do to it is a sporty, comfortable stock. I can't justify $300 on a stock for a $150 gun, so I'd like to make one. I just can't bring myself to modify the original one...so I'm going to take whatever original parts I remove off of the gun and put them in my gun cabinet to keep safe. basically the intent is to use it at the ranges when I can't hunt with it. It's quite a gun...I like it (alot) especially after putting around 40 rounds through it this weekend (and being dead nuts accurate, too!) any ideas?

my case is a '90. it's 23 spline, yours is 21 spline. you will have the case apart to put your SYE in it anyways, so your 21 spline input will have to be swapped. give me a buzz (or text) after 4pm any day this week, and we'll figure out when you can pick it up/when I can drop it off.