akamcbird

press in bushings are a pita without a press tool, even then removal is aggravating seen them cut out with hole saws and torches. track bar i highly suggest upgrading, i went through remans every 2 months before lifting, then went with re best decision ever. check that your trackbar upper mount is solid

or 2.8? updated chart....the transfer will skew comanche rear drive shaft lengths-eye to eye lwb, 2.8, tf 3speed, np207, d35= 54" lwb, 4.0, aw4, np231, d44= 48" d35= 49" lwb, 4.0, aw4, 2wd d44= d35= 60.5" lwb, 4.0, ax15-ba10/5, np231, d44= 49" d35= 50" lwb, 4.0, ax15-ba10/5, 2wd d44= d35= swb, 4.0, aw4, np231, d44= 41.25" d35= 42.35" *swb, 4.0, aw4, 2wd d44= 52.125" d35= 53.125" swb, 4.o, ax15-ba10/5, np231, d44= 42.25" d35= 43.25" *swb, 4.0, ax15-ba10/5, 2wd d44= 52.125" d35= 53.125" lwb, 2.5, ax5 d44= 63.75" d35= 64.75" @swb, 2.5 ax15 d44= 57.75" d35= 58.75" swb, 2.5 ax4 d44= 57.5" d35= 58.5" ax15-ba10/5 (same length) are 1" shorter than aw4 d44, chr8.25 have a 1" longer snout than d35 @ ax25 behind a 2.5 from factory, disputed *posibly an exception to the rule, manual and auto trannys being same length due to 2wd tailpeice (waiting for confirmation)

d35 or d44?

thanks for the help. didnt want to fry my alt.

ok so wiring an alternator from scratch, a cs130 standard gm alt. all the write ups ive found online say S terminal wires to battery post on the back of the alt. and the L terminal connects to 12v keyed power with a charge lite or resistor in the middle. a couple of the write ups say 3-4 antidisestablishmentarianism bulb (http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/cs130.php) the delco site says nothing of bulb wattage but states 35-500ohm resistor (fig.11 http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage6.htm) by my math a 3wat 12v bulb would have 48ohms, 4wat 12v bulb would have 36ohms, but i can't find a 3 or 4wat bulb suitable for the application. i can find 1 and 2wat bulbs, 144 and 72ohms, is there any reason one of these wouldnt work? does my math work for what I'm doing? thanks for the help, terence

valdez got 25" today anchorage only 6" and the snow is still falling forecast says at least 1 more day doubling these numbers

neighbor of mine chopped a yota frame and put a hyundai body on it powered it with a diesel from a mikado(chevy luv) ran for 2 days b4 something went out and he couldnt find a replacement part

nepotism :dunce: ..... actually its proly hiring criteria, my job does a criminal, u.a., credit, driving record, and even check for child support. don't ask me how i got the job....

ive got "tracklock" a clutch plate lsd and i love it for icie roads, and its better than an open diff on the trails.

one man bed removal.... remove tailgate, remove tail lites, tape some small pieces of plywood over the tail lite areas,unstrap the gas tank, disconnect wiring/p-brakes/exhaust. then tip the bed vertical over the rear bumper onto the plywood ends, once its off the truck stand inside and lift from the bulkhead (above your head) this method works well if youve got the truck on a flat solid surface, and don't need it moved far. take it slow and don't forget to stretch its heavy

well, i knew itd be tite but its better to ask than to be pondering for eternity.

the rears are rotted enough, the fronts are gone, and the oh so common 33x12s (i usualy come up with 2 free sets a year and only semi used)

I'm no ford guy but it sounds to me like you need a 4bbl :thumbsup:

first comanche i ever saw was on a junker lot wen i was lookn for a small p/u, went inside to ask about it,asked if it was a 4 or a 6 the lady responded with "v6 i think". i thaught she was just dumb till i poped the hood to jump it.... il be damd v6. started it up drove it round the block, went inside and handed her $700 cash said ill take it, she looked at me and said "the window sticker says $1200", i responded with... well then why did you just take 700 for it? she then pulled out the title and signed it, told me don't come back. been in love ever sense. that truck is sadly only a trailer now.

I'm going to start working on my '87 next month (finally), this truck will only be used in town on paved streets and won't get loaded down. i don't want to lift the truck but i want to use the big tires i have sitting around. i originally planed on using the set of 31"s that ive got with the fenders trimmed just past the flare mount holes, but those tires don't have alot of life left in them which means id be replacing them soon. i do have 2 sets of 33"x12.5"s as well as 4 sets of rims 2w\5.25"bs, 1w\4.5"bs, and 1w\3.5"bs. say i used the 33"s on a rim that lets it clear the lca, how much would i need to trim off the fender, and would i need to add more bump stop? (how bad would it be to limit the up travel on stock suspension) pics are always nice too.

you get used to the dark (also an excuse to buy lots of lites) and in the summer the lite never ends, its actually kind of empowering

ax15-ba10/5 (same length) are 1" shorter than aw4.... I'm thinking this is true of the 4x4 trannys and the tailpiece of the 2wd ba10/5 is 1" longer than the one on the aw4 which would make the drive shafts equal in length. to figure this out we will need measures of the 2wd trannys tail peices, aw4, ba10/5, and ax15. and would probly be wise to get all tranny measures, 2wd and 4wd, 2.5 and 4.0

its all bout ak! guns, boos, wilderness, and the green is green and protected under the ak constitution!

now your adding to the confusion.... i wasnt disputing your numbers but those of shelbyluvv or comanche09 because they both had the same drive shaft measurements and different trannys, which are an inch different in length. meaning there should be a difference in drive shaft measurements.... unlesss they have different length tailpiece :dunno: anybody? now I'm really confused. the "also" statement was because i didnt know the 2.5 came with the ax15

just tape it off and use the krylon fusion spray paint

is that an actual mesure of a stock shaft? i ask because... posted in green and has a manual, (your shaft should be an inch longer) or is his shaft the wrong one? (not original? wich would explain the intact sticker) also...2.5 came with an ax15 behind it? news to me

check the diy section

i got two from the dealer last summer. but an xj buddi of mine just replaced the bearing in the pully, its also been posted here in the past that such is possible

dealership has them prety cheap but its cheaper to get a new bearing. search it youl find part numbers other places have universals but you don't want plastic

mjtjnj could you take some measurements from both the amc20 and d35 for the drive shaft thread? center of ujoint to center of axle tube, or just the difference between. thnx http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20131