Stacks

+1 on Hornbrod's comment on the back pressure. Here's a link to my MJ exhaust sound, dual outlet Clifford headers and an 18" glasspack going to each stack. With a single exhaust you won't get the crackle I have. http:// Link to build thread. http://comancheclub.com/topic/33955-89-mj-work-truckdd-to-dd-and-4-wheeling-whenever/

I have an A999 (beefed up A904) behind my 4.0 in my MJ. Bolts right up. Only issue was the starter. Had to use a starter for a 258 with auto to get the engagement right for the starter and flexplate. Normal 4.0 starter doesn't reach the flexplate. I would recommend using the HO style throttle linkage/cable. The one with the bracket for the throttle cable that attaches to the intake in the center front to back next to the valve cover. That makes it much easier to get your kick down linkage working right and have some adjustment etc. :)

I've been running 32 psi in the front and 28psi in the rear with the 4 ply 235's on my MJ for the last 2 years. The tire wear is pretty even all around so far. On my TJ with 31x10.50 Uniroyal 6 ply mud tires I had to run 24 psi front and 22psi rear to get good even wear and full tread contact. Just an FYI.

I'd be interested!! Do you possibly have some photos? Thank you!!

It should go to the fuel pump ballast resistor on the driver's side fender well and then on to the fuel pump.

The Beta channel is a where you use a version of Firefox that has not been released to the general public yet. You could call it the Guinea Pig channel!! lol I am currently using Mozilla 19- 1.0 release 32. ;0)

Does anyone have this or similar issue using Firefox? If I try to login to CC after having Firefox open for 15 min or more, after the login screen goes away the top right still shows the sign in option. If I close Firefox and re-open it it will then show me as logged in. Firefox does a similar thing when I log out. I have to re-start Firefox to get rid of the Sign out option. I do have to say I am on the Beta channel with Firefox but the issue was present before I went on Beta channel. Thanks for any input!! Larry

Tough to beat a piece of 5" 'C' channel with 2 45 degree bends to wrap around the bed corner and a hitch receiver tube mounted in the center and shackle mounts welded in bumper. I've found, at least on my MJ, that dimensions on a blueprint/drawing tend to be not accurate from vehicle to vehicle especially as old as out MJ's are. Just my two cents worth.

I didn't take my bed off. If you look again, all the bolts are outside of the frame rail so the gas tank does not interfere at all. The factory bracket that is already there sits pretty much on the center line left to right and front to back of the bedside foot.

Unfortunately I don't have dimensions on the one I built. I did it as I went. On the second page of my build thread is a graphic of the factory hold down bracket. It is three pieces. Well four if you count the bedside plate that fits the ribs of the bed. I didn't find that til after I had made mine. The location that it mounts to is already on the frame. That is the part that is circled in red in the photo. I built the bottom section of my roll bar with the bed side 'foot' and drilled the holes in it and then made the rest to fit. About the only dimension I could get for you would be the hole spacing on the bed side 'foot'. Just measured the foot. 4" wide left to right and 5" long front to back. The front edge is approx 5/8" from the front of the box and 1/4" from the side seam. This keeps the bed drain exposed. Hole spacing front to back is 3 5/8" and the holes are 3/4" in from the inside edge. Spacing left to right is 2 3/4" and 1/2" in from the outboard edge. The foot is 5/16" plate as is the bracket underneath. Used that cuz that is what I had in my scrap pile. lol No idea how heavy the factory bracket is. Someone should pipe up with that info. The bolts thru the foot are 3/8" stainless and the rest of the hardware is stainless too. Don't remember the size for the ones underneath. Alignment is a bit touchy cuz you are lining up three holes when you put the bolts thru the bed so be careful on your dimensions there. The spacing you use could be different from what I used so no biggie to use what fits for you. My roll bar is just cosmetic, 2" black iron pipe with 3/16" wall thickness. Definitely not adequate, I don't think, to be a real functional roll bar. I hope I've reached an age that I don't get to test it!! lol I do seem to be a bit more wussy these days when I'm out playing in the hills and rocks. If you have any other questions give me a holler and I'll do my best to answer them or point you to where you can find the answers. Have fun!! Larry

These photos are copied from a document from Dana. It shows the crush sleeve is used from 1985 1/2 to 1998 1/2 D35's. #5 in the exploded diagram is the crush sleeve/collar. I am assuming this is in fact accurate. I have not seen a D35 that did not have a crush collar/sleeve. I also admit I haven't seen every D35 there is either. The bill of material number is stamped on the axle tube so you can verify what year it actually is. I hope this info is useful.

The scoop finally arrived and is mounted for now. Now I can get the MJ out of the garage and into the rain and move on to another project for a bit. Have a few more things to do on the MJ, floor boards, front drive shaft, (needs to be shortened) rear axle seals and bearings, (seals leaking) finish axle disconnect, fabricate a new console and install emergency brake cables. Oh.. and paint... no idea what color it will end up; probably a dark metallic brown or metallic black. Either color with yellow accents/stripes. I will also re do my add on gauges to look a bit less mickey mouse. Function over form for right now!!

Rock auto has a listing under '97 Wrangler for the Moog brand parts. Moog caster/camber cam bolt kit # K100047, $10.95 each.

Finally have a throttle and trans linkage setup that works for both... at the same time even!!! lol Had to rotate the carbs 90* and fab up a complete new linkage. This puts the float bowls where Weber recommends too!! The last auto trans rig I owned was my first car, 1956 Ford 2 door, 292cid. back in 1967. It will take a bit to get used to an auto trans again! Headed to get a small sheet metal brake today so I can make the hood scoop. Only about 30 miles on it so far.

Hey Jim... you are in our thoughts and prayers!! Listen to the Dr.... and at least try to do as he asks K?? Take good care of You!!!! Speedy recovery big guy!!!

The intake manifold came off this afternoon and will ship back to Clifford tomorrow and the replacement will ship this way tomorrow also. I did a quick short video of it starting and running before I took the intake off. Hopefully I can get it to post here. The audio isn't real good for some reason but... oh well. The stacks aren't hooked up yet so it's just running thru the mufflers.

They are usually called a fuel line quick disconnect. Locally here NAPA, Autozone, Oreilly's, Carquest all carry them. They come in different sizes for different diameter fuel lines and sometimes there's a distinction by auto manufacturer... Ford, GM etc. I replaced mine when I put a new fuel rail on. I don't recall if there were ones specifically labeled for Jeeps but I believe the GM ones are the same. Take one of the old ones with you to NAPA and if they don't happen to have it in stock they can get it quickly. Hope that helps a bit. Larry

The intake manifold is being replaced. Just need to wait for the replacement to get here. Hehehe... it's kind of a novelty to have a rig that fires up almost instantly when you hit the starter after the extended crank time necessary on the RENIX engines. Not sure if I can get used to that or not!! lol Larry

I'm beginning to think my MJ has taken a dislike to me!! lol Had to replace the input gear on the t-case with a long length one to keep the trans from dumping fluid out the drain in the tailshaft extension housing. Last evening it was ready to fire up. Put water in the radiator, rechecked all the fuel pump wiring etc. Cranked it over and it fired right up after a couple seconds. It was running way too fast on the fast idle cams so I shut it off. Ran nice and smooth. When I tried to restart it with the chokes disabled it cranked and acted like it kicked back cuz of a timing. Started re-checking things. Pulled the plugs and #6 was wet with water! Cranked it over with the plugs out to see if things were turning smooth. After a couple seconds of turning it over a glob of liquid shot out of #5 up against the garage wall! Ran a compression check. All 6 are 150 plus. Drained the water out of the cooling system, disconnected the heater hoses to the intake manifold, plugged one side and ran compressed air into the other... air comes out the carbs. :???: . I have a call in to Clifford Performance to advise them of the issues. Will post the results later today hopefully!! :dunno: Larry

The problem's resolved. The flexplate was installed correctly initially. The fix is to use a starter from a 258. When placed side by side with a 4.0 starter the 'nose' of the 258 is approx. 1/2" longer. Back together and it works like it's supposed to. We did a bunch of work that didn't need to be done. Should have looked at things again before we acted. I should remember this one!! lol Larry

Not sure if it was not paying attention or Mother Murphy that bit my butt... maybe both. Went to crank the engine to verify oil pressure before firing it up and... starter spins but engine doesn't turn over. Pulled the starter and the flexplate is on backwards. :doh: Pulled the trans etc back far enough to get the flexplate off, flipped it over and imagine that... it's the wrong flexplate. When installed correctly it rubs on the backing plate on the back of the block. In looking at the flexplate it smacked me in the face. It isn't even a flexplate for a fuel injected engine. Probably for a 258. That's what I get for believing what the seller tells me!! Now to figure out which flexplate belongs behind an MJ 4.0 and in front of an A999/32RH. With the little bit of checking I've done this evening it appears that it may be the same as a Wrangler with the 4.0 and an A999/32RH. Just need to get my pinkies on one to compare it to the one I have. If anyone has any input I would be glad to hear it!!! Thanks!! Larry

Congratulations Jim!!! My best to the both of you!!!!! Take good care!!!

Your 4.0 oil pump looks basically like this... The interior looks like this... Those two gears ride on the bottom cover plate of the pump with a film of oil between the gears and the cover plate. The bottom plate can become worn and or scored over time as can the gears. That adds to the clearances and would lessen oil pressure at the least. I'm not sure if that would be sufficient to make it seem like a failure. The slot in the end of the shaft in the first photo is where the bottom of the distributor shaft fits in to drive the pump. The distributor is gear driven off of a gear in roughly the middle of the cam shaft. One side of that slot may have broken or the part it engages on the end of the distributor shaft could possibly break. No way to know for sure til you get it apart. They do make rebuild kits for the pump... new gears, pressure relief spring and cup. If the bottom cover plate isn't worn too bad you can sand it wet with wet and dry sand paper. Lay the sand paper on a plate of glass, wet it with water or oil and sand away. Start with 220 and work up to 400 or maybe 600 grit. Get rid of the wear marks then work on a nice smooth finish to the surface. Take your time. A pump around here is about $75. The rebuild kit I have gotten in the recent past is less than $30 from Summitracing.com. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-224-51198/overview/make/jeep The photo in that link isn't the right pump but that is stated there also. It is a Sealed power kit so it will be available other places to. Hope that helps a bit. Larry

Made a bit of progress this evening. The new fuel pump, pressure regulator, return line, and fuel block and pressure gauge are plumbed in and connected to the carbs. I need to wire in a relay to power the new fuel pump. I'm looking at some alternatives to be able to lessen the number of hose clamps. Any or all of them is a disaster waiting to happen. Any ideas or suggestions?? Still have a fair amount of wiring to clean up from the previous owner, wire nuts, wire taps etc.

OK... no idea what those directions were trying to tell me so... onward to fixing the hood clearance issue. The whole marked rectangle wasn't removed to preserve the inner hood brace. I will box the exposed support to help add some strength back in. Some of the heater hose plumbing is done. I picked up the rest of the brass fittings and an additional vacuum valve to complete that this afternoon. I prefer to NOT have coolant circulating thru the heater core in the summer but I need the circulation to heat the intake manifold. Trying to keep the heater hose plumbing a little bit 'contained' and neater if possible. The rear carb is too close to the firewall to use the supplied throttle linkage bracket so we improvised a bit. Same with the power steering pump mount. Next is the t-case linkage. Thanks Ben!! Only other major issue is the kick down linkage. There's a couple temp gauges to wire in yet, t-cooler lines to run and some wiring cleanup to do. May have it running by the beginning of next week... maybe,,, lol Oh... and to rub some of you the wrong way... I have some 4" diameter pieces of drive line to make new stacks that will hopefully lower the tone of the exhaust a bit when I have my foot in it!! lol