sloride

I put the white face gauges on my 88 along with the leds. Where I bought them supplied me nine leds and IIRC there's twelve bulbs back there. Had I switched out all twelve I would have a problem with the high beams and turn signals. But since I left those three incandescent, I'm satifisfied with my upgrade.

Rare earth magnets might work for you. The magnet I have aggressively sticks to the front headliner edge close to visors and but no so well at the back window. Two of those magnets would hold an acceptable light housing to the roof through the headliner........

I wouldn't count on the alignment shop doing it for you. I would get the alignment first and then pull the steering wheel off to relocate. All you need is a steering wheel puller. The wheel is splined with the shaft, just a matter of pull and relocate.

Starter solenoid?

Moisture has a tendency to find its way inside, so they basically leak. I thought my 88 was immune until I pulled up the carpet and witnessed rain water on cab floor. These trucks are basically bullet proof with lots of torque. I've had mine since new and it has close to 140,000 miles. The only oil my engine uses is what's lost on the garage floor from a 25yr old gasket. I love my truck.

My slave cylinder went out on me at an intersection. I had to go get fluid to be able to limp it home. If you don't want to address your leak due to time or funds, I would keep a couple of bottles of fluid with you should you have catastrophic failure.

You didn't mention your fluid levels. Are your clutch master cylinder and transmission levels where they're supposed to be? I'd be suspicious of that leak you mentioned.

I want to decrease road noise. Has anyone tried using styrofoam packing peanuts in the cab corners all the way up the B-pillar? I know spray foam is a major no no.

If it were me I'd use a welder, but I have one and the skills to use it. So it goes against my better judgement to suggest this, try 'kitty hair' or fiberglass filler. You can get a quart can of the stuff with hardener at your local auto parts store. As long as the fiberglass filler has something to bite to, it will stick. Its water proof so it won't degrade like bondo.

Rumor has it, or I heard someone say years ago, WD40 was developed by NASA and stands for Water Dissipater formula #40. Haven't used that stuff since I discovered PB Blaster.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm I put brand new ones on from general spring.

Whats your exhaust 'donut' look like? Its the fiber tapered donut that goes between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. If thats shot or loose that could be a source of exhaust fumes.

No reason. Mostly curiosity.

Okay, with the front drive shaft sitting on your work bench before you, how do you seperate the slip yoke? I'm assuming it has to do with the rubber-now-hard-as-a-rock-seal under the cap.

:agree: I'm with terrawombat on this. My GTO had the same rust type damage to its frame. You want to fix it correctly and forget about it. Cut the cancer out the best you can, treat with a rust prevented like the guys suggested already and weld good metal back in. In my experience, once you cut open the damage you're more than likely to find more thats unseen. Just take your time and be methodical. If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you won't have time to do it right the second time. Just my two cents.

Pickle Fork, vise and BFH. Clamp the assembly in a vise with black shift portion above vise just enough for a pickle fork to bite. Give pickle fork a couple good wacks with a hammer and she'll pop right off. I did it to my pukegoat shifter last night and to an AX-15 shifter assembly recently. Works like a charm.

I get a majority of my parts from RockAuto and thats why I'm trying to pin-point the exact pads. The rotors they have are cheaper than anywhere around here so I thought I'd get rotors and pads at the same time........ The donor jeep isn't in the yard anymore or else I'd go get the vin.

Yeah, about having the old pads. I didn't bring them home with me. The yard would have charged me and there was no way I was paying for old pads.

I first want to thank you for this web site. The information I've found here is priceless. I couldn't be doing what I'm doing to my MJ without this site and everyone's guidance. I need guidance on my disc brake conversion for my '88 MJ. Its an 8.25 from a '98 Cherokee with disc brakes from a '94 Grand Cherokee...... In my pick and pulling of parts, I failed to get the vin number off the '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee donor. It never dawned on me to get that information...... Now I don't know what pads I can use for the back......... Whats with this "to Chassis Vin 358321" or "from Chassis Vin 358321" stuff for choosing disc pads? I know they're dimensionally different with the first Vin pads being 5-33/64lg x .201 plate while the second Vin pads is 5.64lg x .197 plate. Its not much difference but does it really matter which set of pads I use? God bless him, but I know the counter jockey at the local parts store won't be able to help me. I plan on posting pics of my progress in the coming months. Thanks for the help!

I've searched archives and didn't find an answer. I need a AX15 shift tower. If a JY dealer hands me one how can I know its for an AX15 and not AX5? I understand one is taller than the other but these things don't have part numbers for me to verify but with only one in hand how do you know? Any one have dimensions or actual overall height of an AX15 shift tower? Luv this web-page! Thanks in advance!

Can I use the stick portion of my shifter (88 MJ,4.0) on an AX-15 shifter assembly? In other words, does the square hole portion of the stick from a puegey mate to the square portion of an AX-15 shifter assembly? Thanks in advance for any and all replies! Jay

I have electrical diagram for a 1988 Comanche if that would help. I could scan it in and send that to you. It won't be before Friday that I can do that.

Thanks for the help guys! This site is a wealth of information that is priceless! Thanks again.

I was able to shift the lever. It's a 231J with lever down the input spins but nothing else. Lever up input and output spin but 4wd shaft does nothing.

The transfer case is on a bench separate from tranny. I tried moving the transfer case shift lever but it won't budge. I was wondering if there was something I was missing.