snakedoc67

Local U pull-it just got in a 91 SWB, 2.5L Sportstruck. 5 speed manual (not sure which one yet), Dana 35 rear. Grey interior in good shape, even the bench seat would be usable after cleaning. Plan on pulling the bed off this weekend for myself along with fuel sending unit and doors/fenders if i don't run out of funds. Have already saved the taillights and tailgate. Pictures can be viewed here;

I have a local U pull it that has a 91 with gray interior. I was already planning on pulling the doors and interior panels but don't need gray for myself as I already have the coveted black. lol. Pictures can be viewed here:

Saw this on the local CL and verified with the owner that is is still available. He mentioned that he also has a BA10 and NP231 for sale but there was no other information. All prices are negotiable. http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/4324053413.html

I have a set of tan interior pieces if you are still looking. They can be seen here: . I'm in Lincoln,NE, shipping will be from 68507.

Went to check the intake/exhaust manifold bolts on my MJ and I am missing the two lowermost outside ones on the exhaust manifold, listed as bolts 10 and 11 in the 1990 Service Manual page 11-10. When i walked thru the parts yard all they had was 90+ XJs and they had a nut and stud arrangement. Was the earlier renix a bolt that attached here or is it a stud and nut arrangement as well, which in that case I am missing the studs as well.

:banana:

I have a 16gal tank from my parts truck that I will be cleaning up the exterior and putting into long term storage. I am wondering what methods have been used by anyone on here to preserve a tank off the truck and empty. It will have to be able to handle weather from -10F to 110F since it will be in an unheated storage unit. I pulled the fuel sending unit out a few weeks ago to use as a reference in troubleshooting some fuel flow issues I had on my dd. My first thoughts are to place the sending unt into a vacuum sealed bag, wire brush and paint/coat the exterior of the tank and seal the openings. Since it is going to be long term storage inside, keeping fuel in it is not an option. What products does anyone have any experience with for coating the inside of the tank?

I can't say how disappointed i am in your leaving, like the others I hope you at least chose to lurk in the background. Your knowledge and opinion is highly valued to me and will be missed as I slowly get my manche restored back. I do understand how a few people can take the fun out of years of participating in a project that you enjoyed being part of, the same is happening to me on a few other projects outside CC.

The one in my original link turned out to be for a 2.5L, the 4.0 was still normal price :fs1:

THanks for the advice, will be getting a different TPS to test the possibility that my new one was bad. Will have to wait til its a lil warmer before resuming this but at least its driveable at the moment for stay in town trips. lol

Just found NAPA has a manual TPS for $52. Called the local store and it is now 3-5 days out. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Throttle-Position-Sensor-TPS-/_/R-CRB219020_0306205283

Pulled the fuel sending unit out and found the internal fuel line loose. Replaced the fuel lines and filter and the no-start/lack of power is gone. Also disassembled the throttle body and cleaned it and the IAC.

After reinstalling the new TPS, I got the same result as the first time, idle between 4000 and 5000. I put the old one back one and reinstalled the air tube and filter since that was causing it to surge a lil bit. Idle is now around 2-3000. Is it possible i got a bad TPS from the store?

I had the entire TB disassembled and cleaned it two days ago. I did the sensor ground test and had no variances when i was shaking the wire harness. I put an JY fresh vaccuum harness and it took care of most of the issue. I put the old TPS back in just to see what would happen prior to going and getting the vaccum harness. Currently with the old TPS in and adjusted, It idles a lil high still. I have not reinstalled the manifold air tube either, will do that as soon as I put the net TBS back in and see what happens. The PO had installed a K&N Filer at the end of the air tube from the manifold and took the airbox itself.

Just installed a new TPS and have it adjusted correctly ( 4.86X ,17= .82). I used a TPS for an automatic instead of the manual one, and I adjusted per manual TPS instructions. Should I be using the four wire connection and use the automatic instructions? I am getting a high RPM that creeps up as the engine runs. The first two test starts it climbed up to 4000 and stayed there, now it is around 2500 but creeps up right away. How much would the vaccum lines around it have an effecct fi they are not hooked up correctly? Other things I have played with in the last couple of days have been to clean the contacts on the coll, replaced the TPS, pulled the fuel sending unit out to put new hoses on it. Looking for any suggestions, temp is supposed to go from the high 40s today to the mid 20's and lower the rest of the week and I don't have anyplace inside to work on it. lol

thanks, didnt think i'd get a reply that quick. lol

Just looked thru the DIY post of refurbishing the fuel sending units. Can anyone tell me the proper way to test the potentiometers? I am reinstalling my sending unit today and would like to verify its good while i have it out and to test the one from the parts truck.

I had mine taken out almost two years now (dec 27th, 2011). Woke up that morning feeling crappy like a serious gas bubble or a sore back from the neice jumping on it the night before. I had been planning to go move my Winnebago from the side of the highway where the waterpump failed a few days before (4 hours away in Salinas, KS). Decided to make a stop at the ER before leaving town just to make sure it wasn't something serious. They told me i was scheduled for surgury that night. Had no problems or warning signs leading up to it, just woke up feeling like $#!&. Asked for the stones but they wouldnt give them to me, what they did give me was a nick in a blood vessel when they took the catheter out. The pain everytime I took a piss after that was almost as bad as the stones, I'd have to say there was more blood than urine coming out for two days, and it didnt clear up completely for two weeks. Have a deathly fear of being cathetized now. LMAO. Been fine since and was back to normal habits the day i was released.

I should find out today (monday) when I pull the sending unit out of the tank. If its bad the sending unit from the parts truck looks ok. Just have to wait for the locking ring Oring to show up at NAPA today.

Trying to diagnose a crank but no start condition. It will start only with using starting fluid and until it runs for about 20 min to warm up it will surge and die when in gear and the gas is pressed. I had the clutch replaced last week, prior to taking it into the shop it would start normally but still had the stalling and lack of pep. The fuel pump is the main suspect but since I won't be able to afford a new one for a few weeks trying to find other things to check first. I can hear the fuel pump running when the key is turned to start, and I get fuel from the rail when doing the poor man's fuel pressure test. I will be "borrowing" a fuel pressure gauge from Oreillys to try and get an accurate pressure. I pulled the fuel tank from my parts truck earlier this summer and it should have the pump in it still- is there a way to bench test before i go thru the process of installing a bad pump? Also, is there a way to rebuild them other than just the filter on them? Things that have been done recently: When the clutch was replaced I verified they took out the CPS first, I also had them replace the master cylinder and hose, as well as converting it to DOT-5. The mechanic had powerwashed the bottom of the Manche when they replaced the clutch but stayed away from the coil and relays, he also pulled the cap to make sure there wasnt any water in it. The fuel filter was replaced earlier this summer so it should be good. I also refreshed the grounds at the oil filter post and the left rear taillight a few months ago as well. I replaced the MAP sensor to the throttle body line yesterday. (it broke when i took it in but didnt seem to make a difference to the starting). Not done yet: Have the parts just havent installed them- New TPS, new spark plugs and wires, new grounding cable for the firewall to engine block, C101 connector cleaning was started but only halfway finished.

Will be taking the Manche in on monday to a new shop in town for a clutch replacement. They are labor only and bring your own parts so I want to make sure i have everything i need in the way of fluids, etc. Just purchased a clutch kit from ORilleys but now i have a couple of questions. They mentioned they had a ceramic lined clutch kit for twice the price, I wondered how much better that would be. Also since the instructions say its for a 93-98 Cherokee/Comanche/Wrangler has anyone had problems with this kit (the cheaper one priced at $164, lol). Also if anyone could tell me what other supplies I would need.

wasnt turning over, bf did it to be an @$$ and left her sitting there for 8 hours while he was working. Started up after he came back and fixed whatever it was he unplugged.

Friend has an S10 with a no-start condition after her bf played around with something by the left front tire. Apparently he used something that looks like a lower half of a cb antenna to mess up the starting. Nothing looks unplugged to her but wondering what else might cause a no-start. Trucks a 1996 S10. Truck ran fine before, but now shes stranded at a phone company in Longview, TX and no options.

Does anyone recommend a specific brand for new parts? Will just be using the Manche for normal driving but want something thats going to last awhile.

I just replaced the PO's 3 yr old 650 CCA with a new group 34 850 CCA. Now i just need to secure the battery mount since the inner fender is rusted out from underneath it.