BLHTAZ

A great loss to the automotive world. R.I.P.

X2... that could be a good article for the DIY section...especailly if you have a few pics to go with it. ;)

Good info. Thanks for sharing :cheers:

Should be 2.25" if it has not been changed.

That was a great fix for the "open" conversion, but that tube is no longer available. Believe me...I tried to find one to use when I did my conversion and went through hell finding a way to make the electric fan work. maddzz1... I would leave it alone. If it came without and electric fan, don't worry about it. Convert if you want, but the not having a fan thing should not be a problem for you.

He was a great man, a great president and all of that is excellent stuff :cheers: This is probably the best of all and there could not be anything more true.

The front shaft should not be spinning or causing drag unless you have a locker in the front. If you have an open diff, it will make no difference at all. 22 MPG ... You are doing extremely well to get that. I can't imagine an MJ, or most other Jeeps, getting that kind of MPG.

They are a pressed in stud as previously described. They resemble a wheel stud and have to be pressed/knocked out from the bottom. You can knock them out and then replace them with a regular bolt & nut set up as many do in this situation. :cheers:

That was going to be my suggestion too...find a museum that might have something similar to give you an idea. Something like that could be nearly priceless though. I Think I would be kinda scared to have it in my house personally...or at least be sure that nobody knows about it if I did ;) .

SAWEEEEET!! :cheers: It will be worn with pride. :D

I'll get back to you in a little while when I get to work and ask our engine guy how they are in there and what is a good trick to changing them. I would be soaking them with some PB Blaster [or the like] to start with though.

My thinking is that if all of the CCV stuff has been replaced/cleaned and the problem is no better then the rings are the likely culprit. A compression test [as suggested] should tell that story. The catch bottle is a solution that I have seen several times now too ;) . Be careful...probably has lead it in ;) :D

Agreed...replace the sender.

Yes...there are a lot ofmud-loving people here in FL...BUT...I am NOT one of them. I would rather tow my Jeep 10 hours to find good rocks before driving 15 minutes to a mud hole ;) I used to do the mud thing and found that 4hi was definitely my friend in the mud holes, but 4lo is so much more fun on rocks when you can feel the vehicle work and you get to use some driving skill to make it through the obstacles. :cheers:

The SRT8 is a full time all wheel drive, but this guy has designed a mod to turn that off if you wish somehow. Like everyone else though...I do not understand the set up... :roll: :nuts:

My first thought when you said "it doesn't seem centered" was that the axle tube is bent.

Yep...that's it. Don't get the engine too hot though or you won't be able to get your hands in there to remove & repalace that sensor. Mine was nearly completely cooled when I did it. The important thing is to have the front of the truck lower than the back so the air will all go to the rear of the head and out the sensor hole. Be sure that your plastic bottle has plenty of fluid in it as well.

That system is VERY sensitive to air in it. Did you properly bleed the air out of the system when you changed these parts? The problem you are describing sounds like the same issue I had when I did similar work and found out about the bleeding thing as I had never dealt with a closed cooling system before. FYI... Closed system...it doesn't have a cap unless it's been converted, but since he said it was blowing out of the bottle, doesn't sound like it's converted to me ;) .

In this pic you can see the springs on top that are attached with the mini u-bolts to the spring below. The ones on top do not belong there and were likely added because the PO was doing a lof of towing/hauling with it. Probably why it has air shocks too. If you remove that overload springs and the factory ones are bent or sag real bad, you can do a simple fix by doing as he said and getting another set of Comanche springs to cut and add in to your pack for more support. Image Not Found

Absolutely. It's a bit expensive, but it is VERY good stuff. We used it for a long time at the dealership, but now they have changed to some stuff from M.O.C. :roll: . All the techs want the BG stuff back. Being an AMSOIL dealer, I have to say that I use the AMSOIL fuel system cleaner and am real happy with it's results as well ;) . OH...BTW...don't forget the fuel filter too. It's probably time to change that as it is usually included in any major tune up if it is an external filter.

Yep...I would be removing those and putting a plug in there. With my luck, I would hit a rock, break them off and lose all the fluid.

Yes...I had to replace the condensor when my discharge line exploded as I could not get the line to come off of the old one. I got it through a local company here in Orlando called Cold Air Distributors.

Nice find :cheers: It seems that the further south you are, the cheaper you can find stuff like this. I shake my head a lot at how much a lot of you think these things are worth and then I see that the further north you are, the more inflated your ideas of value are. ;)

That's doing pretty god. You must know someone there or have access to a wholesale account. List price on it is $104 and I can get them for you for about $75 plus shipping ;)

It's about time the name is called out. Now we can see that this person is a scammer and others will avoid him. PaPal is a great service. I have literally thousands of transactions with PayPal over the last 6 years 7 months 16 days ;) . I have only had 2 issues in that time and PayPal was very helpful in getting them resolved.