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Everything posted by BLHTAZ
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I just ordered a set for the YJ. I'm sure with a little inginuity they would be workable in an MJ too. They are available in several colors, but this is the onesI ordered. $184.98 for 2 seats shipped to me and they will be here by no later than 3/21 Click Here to see the deal
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I work at a Chrysler-Jeep dealer in parts :cheers: . Been at it for around 12 years now. You must use Star Parts too... ;)
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Ford Ranger light bar on my MJ...
BLHTAZ replied to BLHTAZ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The good in this is that the truck is at a shop right now that belongs to a personal friend of my friend. I know that the wheel thing will likely not happen as I have been through that before and I have nothing to replace them with, BUT being that the place that it is sitting at right now is a "Jeep friendly" & knowledgeable place, there may be a chance that they have something to work with. Once it is totaled officially, they will remove the bar for me and I can go get it when I am able :D . We'll see about the wheels. -
:cheers: Nice truck!! Welcome to the site Dan. I look forward to seeing your MJ grow and the Diesel idea really fascinates me. I love Diesel engines and would love to do that myself. Personally, I like keeping the truck looking as original as possible, but if flatbed is your desire, then make it happen. :D You will get a lot of great info and help here, but you wll not be harshly judged as in many other places on the net.
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It's really hard to describe, but what was there is like a black bristle stuff like a broom would be made of. It's made on a small strip with one on each side. Mine are still there, but are falling apart badly. I haven't looked under mine to see what may be there, but I'm sure there must be more to it.
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Cool...and I could go play at Gray Rock 8) :D
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The injector o-rings are in a set, but they are all Black now...the brown have been done away with. Chrysler part number on the package is 83503637. List price on them it $15.50. On something this small it's not likely worth it, but I could ship them to you for "about" $11.50 including tax & shipping.
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I'd love 12 acres of anything. We have .17 acre ... that's right ... less than 1/4 acre, so my lawn care is about 1.5 hours because of all the stuff my wife has in the yard and I have to be "very careful" not to chop it down with the trimmer. It takes about an hour of trimming and 20-30 minutes of mowing. :roll: . Before she started turning it in to a mini-jungle, I could do it in 45 minutes tops.
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When I carried it for about 200 yards in 87* heat, it seemed to weigh 300 lbs (to my overweight-outa shape @$$), but I believe it is between 30-40 lbs really. The picture is decieving...I think it is about 12-15 inches long. ;)
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:rotfl2: I was doing the same thing a month ago too, but it was a little cooler. In Florida, we have to cut all year long...just not as often in the winter time. :cheers:
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Just bitchin'... :mad: It seems that it was only a week ago that I ran the lawn mower and now I have been out there doing it again in the 86* weather. My face and shoulders are all sunburnt now :roll: .
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Ford Ranger light bar on my MJ...
BLHTAZ replied to BLHTAZ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Didn't notice those. I'll ask about them. -
It is the newest offering in Air compressors from Warn. It's called an Air-Power VTC. Retails for around $700 from what I have found out. The Orlando Jeep Club had there annual show yeasterday ( 3/15/08 ) and I won this in the raffles :D . Not sure what I am going to do with it though as we don't really have a good use for it. I may try to trade it or sell it as we have found a bumper that we want for the MJ that is going to cost about the same from ProtoFab. Here is the Warn Industries page about it Image Not Found Image Not Found
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Ford Ranger light bar on my MJ...
BLHTAZ replied to BLHTAZ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Have to wait for the insurance company to release it as the crash just happened two days ago, but I will definitely keep this updated as it goes. -
Definitely a nice truck. I would just like to see it restored with more actual "Jeep" stuff.
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Correct...that is why it is a good idea to replace all of the injectors together with a flow matched set. :cheers:
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I have a friend who's brother was just in an accident with his truck. I have a good chance of getting the bar off of it as they are saying that it is a total on the truck. He says that it is "slightly tweeked" on the passenger side, but that it is not damaged in any major way. If it is bent in a little, I'm sure I can pull it back out with my winch on the YJ or take it to work and use the frame machine in the body shop ;) I measured a Ranger truck bed that belongs to the guy across the street that is the nearly the same year and appears to be the same body style. The bed floor to cab top is identical and the bed width is only about 1/2 to 3/4 wider than the MJ. Here's the pics I got from him... Image Not Found Image Not Found
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hahaha... $42K and he doesn't even take time to put in a description at all. This explains it... Item location: puebla, ME, Mexico
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Design II or Design III injectors for a 4.0L HO
BLHTAZ replied to bigshrimpin's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Yes...you have found correct information. The Design II & Design III are the other than some "Design" changes that effect the spray pattern and the actual appearance of the injector. If your HO engine is newer than 1996, then it will require the higher flow injector, but if it is 1995 or older the 19 lb will be the one for you. I have the Design II in both my '88 MJ and in our '95 YJ. The YJ is obviously an HO, but the same Ford Motorsport injectors are used in both the Renix & the HO engine from '87 to '95. -
He supplies a flow chart with them. They are all flow matched to within 1%. Now...his flow chart is not as detailed as what you have shown, but I'm sure he could do that if needed. If it is external...obviously you will see it, but yes...they can leak internally which means that they will allow whatever fuel is in them to leak in to the cylinder and pump that extra raw fuel out the exhaust when you start the engine as well as allowing too much fuel to go through while running causing a rich burn and potential problems with the catalytic converter and to those that must have emissions testing done ;) . Obvously it will be detrimental to MPG as well.
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Check the link in my first post ;) . I work at a Jeep dealership in the parts dept. New injectors sell for $69 - $99 EACH :nuts: . That is not calibrated though. If you start with 6 injectors that are not "flow matched", you are still going to have 6 injectors that are not "flow matched" after they are all cleaned up ;) ...therefore, not calibrated.
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You have to be very careful with a 4.0L engine. AS Eagle said...if you take too much back pressure away from a 4.0, it is detrimental to it's performance and economy. A lot of people like a big "free flowing" exhaust, but you will have to be willing to sacrifice something for the sound. I am going to replace my broken muffler soon with a flow master 40, but I am not going to change the pipe size.
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That's not bad, but when you can have a better performing injector (Ford Motorsport) for virtually the same money, why would you want to just clean and reuse the same old stock ones. I have seen a 16% increase in MPG with changing to the new injectors from Precision as of the last fill up two days ago. I went from 14.5 to 17.25 ... :cheers: Oh...BTW....Just an FYI, but there is no such thing as "calibrating" an injector. An injector is a very simple piece of equipment that is bacically a little tube with a spring, solenoid & piston that open & close when electrically pulsed ;) . This is a good illustration...
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This is the solution to your issue. See my post here... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... t=injector No special tools required...just a little patience and paying attention to what you are doing. A ratchet, extension, socket, small screw driver and maybe a small pry bar to pull the rail off is all you should need. You will likely want to get the fuel line connector repair kits with the orings if you take the lines off like I did ;) .
