BLHTAZ

Yea...mine blows plenty cold with R-134 in it. Being in Florida...we area definitely in tune with having a good working AC. ;)

Just curious as to why ya'll want to stay wit hthe R-12 when it is so easy an inexpensive to convert? I converted mine when I replaced the condensor and drier and it works great. If you find the right person that knows what they are doing you don't even need any parts to change over to the R-134, but it's easier to use the $20 conversion kit.

The wife will love it. She is a cow fanatic with over 70 different "Cow things" in her kitchen alone :roll: ;) .

That was going to be my response as well ;) It appears that it is about a 3-4" lift and I would say 31" tires as that is what I have and it looks very similar in stance to mine with the RE 3.5" kit & 31's.

That is the expensive part that I was referring to earlier...if you do a gear change that way. That's a good price if it comes with all the bearings and stuff to install it, but payng someone that knows how to do the job is going to get you as gears are NOT something that the average guy can do and those that know how usually charge dearly for it.

Don't forget that you need to figure out why it overheated...not just repair what got broken or you will just have to do it all over again soon. ;)

Cool...I was going to ask for some too. 8) BTW Pete... I know how you feel in this. We have done "Group Buys" on some hats in the past when we can get extra good deals and it is a chore getting them all boxed up and shipped.

I'd have to look it up to be sure, but I believe they started the two sided keys in '94 - '95 so you should be good. EDIT: I just fired up my parts lookup system here at home and found that they started using the "double bitted" cylinders in 1991 :cheers: .

A short block is just the block...no head/heads. A long block is the block with the head/heads bolted on it. Neither one comes with any accessories on them, but a "Crate motor" is a long block with accessories attached. :cheers:

:oops: OOPS...you're right. I forgot he said he had "no key" for the doors ;) . I don't know any locksmiths that work that cheap though. Any around here (including me) would charge at least $35 to do that job.

Yes, only one line will have vacuum going to the switch on the t-cae. When you put the t-case in 4wd, that switch should then apply vacuum to the other lines to engage the front axle. If that is not happening, then you probably need to replace the switch on the t-case as they like to get jammed up and stop working as mine did. Yes...it is normal for the vacuum motor to move around in the housing like that ;) .

If you got a good deal on them, I personally would try to re-sell them and use the money to get a proper size tire to fit the truck...otherwise you are going to need 8" of lift and wheel spacers to make those work. You really need to get some full width/stronger axles to handle those. 10" wide wheels would be the minimum for those and would hold a good bead under low pressure if you are a crawler as most all of the guys I know that are in to crawling like a narrow wheel to run low pressure if they don't have bead locks. 12" wide is the recommended wheel for that tire size, but it will never work on an MJ...especially with stock axles :eek:

You can re-key to have them all matching, it's just a matter of how much you are going to pay for it to be done. As many people here know, I work in a Jeep dealership parts deptartment. I and one of only a few people in a parts department that know how to assemble/disassemble and re-key a lock cylinder to match other keys. If I were to do that job for the "average Joe" off the street (not a Jeep friend ;) ), it would probably be about a $100 - $150 job. In this particular case, it would be simpler and less expensive to change the ignition cylinder to match the doors IMO. :cheers: The glove box lock may be a different story. Some of those are made so that you can not take them apart without damage once they are keyed.

You will be better off to get new sensors instead of taking the ones from salvage. Be sure to buy the ones for guages though ;) . The oil sender is right next to the oil filter and the temp sender is on the top left rear of the head right under where the MPA sensor is mounted to the firewall. I just did this swap a couple months ago on my '88. You may need to move a couple of the indicator light bulbs over on the left side of the panel where the 4WD light is as the one I got did not have them in the same places. I still screwed up as my 4x4 light does not work, but I don't care about that as I know when it's in 4x4 or not without a light to tell me.

True...I was thinking of actually paying to have the current axles done :cheers: .

To many people forget about these. Big source of power loss, mpg loss etc, etc... Click here for more info on injectors. I have personally put them in 3 vehicles now, my '88 MJ, my wifes '95 YJ and a friends '97 TJ. Definitley agree with Pete...you will notice more gain from this then anything. It is the most expensive option, but this is one of those "get what you pay for" things ;) . It only helps at higher RPM's as it is an air flow thing. It helps get a more directed & consistent air flow to the engine so it is not really noticeable all the time on these engines.

My heater core was the only leak I found, but since I am in Florida, I just bypassed it and let it go. No need for the heater here ;) . The old weathered door seals can be replaced with the slightly thicker ones from a later model 4 door XJ to stop leaks around the doors :cheers: .

You will have to buy your gears/parts specifically for a car axle as they are different than the truck versions so it may be a bit harder to find stuff for as the typical truck guys/shops are not going to know how to work on it if needed. It may be a deal, but I personally would stay away from it as it is likely more trouble than it's worth. I had one myself at one time and when I found out what it was going to take to build it...I sold it :cheers: .

Here is mine... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3490

I won't argue with that :D . I have spent more money on things and been disappointed too. Thanks for the info. I always like to hear all sides of the story :cheers: .

It's nearly never a "simple" project on a Jeep. One thing always leads to another...but I am with ya...I hate it most of the time, but I love my Jeeps. :cheers:

Yea...some people go by that, but I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for so I virtually never buy something based on a low price :D .

Hey Eagle...not trying to be argumentative, but I am curious as to why you say stay away from Platinums? I have run Bosch Platinums in all of my Jeep and Ram Truck engines for many years now with no ill effects. I know many others that have done the same on my recommendation and they are very happy with the results too. So...as I said...just want to know why you have such a drastically different opinion that what I have found from most other Jeep sites/forums ;) :cheers:

:eek: WOW...those things are very well worn...

You are fortunate. Autolites do not typically work in a Jeep, Chysler, AMC etc, etc... of any type.