mountainman

Its because as was stated before, that they don't give 2 $#!&s about these cars anymore. If the trans was designed to use motor oil they would have started that way. But it was meant to use 80/90. A HUGE difference in every way from motor oil.

Well for sure motor oil is NOT made to take the shear stresses that a trans puts on its fluid. So running motor oil is a FAIL on all levels and i wouldnt suggest it at any time. Just like honda states in their literature... use motor oil in the trans ONLY if man tran fluid is not available, and it is to be used for as short a duration as possible until man tran fluid can be put back in.

delete

Just build a bad @$$ bumper and drag that beotches @$$. Bobing the bed looks like $#!& on these trucks. Nice wheelin shots and now the cap looks SICK due to the lift. MAN youre killin me. Mine was to be just like this before hammers, and now I'm set back. Prob be april before its done. Thanks for helping me dream through the hard times. :)

WINNER!!!! Now i just hope it stays all original and doesnt get hacked with some engine swap. its too cool to mess up. Def moar pics. The twin fingers pic is awesome. pirate style!

I'm with ya. Soon as i got my truck 2nd was very notchy when cold. Put in redline MTL and BAM... shes like butter. I fricken love that magic tranny soup. hehehe. AND you won't ever need to change again....;) That stuff has insane change intervals. We ran it in my moms jetta trans for 100k miles before we dumped it. Still looked like new.

WOW... then i need to pay attention cause i passed on a 92 4wd a while back for CHEAP. cause i wasnt worried about it. FECK!!

I will have to agree, as much as i dislike even the thought of the 2.5... driving the truck is much more fun than it sitting. So prob pop another 2.5 in and cruise it while you gather the stuff for the 4.0 swap.

Keep your manch. Debt is never good.

Only issue i see is D30 already has lots of deflection and likes to chew up pinions, especially in reverse. So 4.88 the damn pinion is so small, may want to go a bit less ratio for as much meat as you can and run it open. Go 4.37 or 4.56. Or spend the money on putting a D44 under the front with truss and axles. Mucho bettero. I can't talk smack cause I'm using a turdy in my build. After talking with tons of people ive gotten some pretty solid info on the old toothpick. Should work great for me running it open and 33s. Soon as you lock em... they start coming apart. Have i ever wheeled either setup and have personal experience.. no. But have i read probably 250 diff opinions from other people, yes. One guy builds expedition/crawler Xjs and he loves the 30. said they are perfect if you don't throw 37s and a locker at em...lol. And of course having the driver mod helps. If you have an affair with the skinny pedal then your in big trouble. heheh. Ive been researching almost a year as to how i want my MJ to be at stage 1, and the 30 is part of it. Stage 2 (if i break the 30) will be a trussed D44 with the works. Then my rear D44 is next in line and the build never ends. lol. Hope this helps.

wow THAT is bad asssss. oh man. I hope someone here gets it. I'm facing 3k out of pocket dental costs right now, so my manch upgrades are on hold. But this would be epic to have. its CLEAN too.

Yup... the bill and ted stare. The stupidity of its users isnt apparent to them. All they do is regurgitate its greatness at any opportunity. Yet.... ask them about their productivity over the last 90 days and see what they say.

may not be the chain gasket, but the front main seal.

Welcome josh. Love me some mosins. I have an m91/30 and an M44. And of course my beloved 91 comanche. :)

So its SOA? must have some lift leaves coupled with SOA. pics for sure.

:crossfingers:

The only thing that will happen if you overfill any manual box is that it will huff fluid out the breather to relieve itself. But yeah filling to the top hole is just fine.

yup. Turn the motor over by hand if you drop one in, do NOT start it. Mucho badness can happen and you WILL cry.

that could have gotten UUUUUgLYY

Make sure to date those tires when you get there. If they are over 10 years old.... JUNK. D44s are cool to have as long as price is right. follow him to the scrap yard and buy the axles from the dude there after he drops em off. lol

Thats good to know. I was told in my thread that the yokes are different and i needed the matching dirveshaft. So i got it. Either way i have both shafts now. So ill figure that out when I'm doing my SOA. :)

Good point. Supposedly the U joints are different. But thats something I'm sure he would figure out as he does the job. Prob need adapter joint, or when driveline gets shortened have them put the proper yoke on that end.

Grind off the old pads and anything else not needed and clean it all off. Then get this... http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D44SS.html And youll be set. :) Gonna need longer shocks too. Unless of course your putting it above the leaves and i just didnt read what you said.

Good luck on your search. :) hope you find a manch.

two options to diagnose something like this. Either borrow a go pro from a friend (seems everyone has them now) and mount it under the truck. Then watch for whats getting all crazy. OR speak with a shop in town that has an elevated dynojet dyno rack. Put it on there and run it up the speed where the issue is, of course you or whoever's dyno your on can watch and see WTF is going on. This is of course if you can't find it through the normal diagnosis process. Probably take it by a good gear shop and have one of the techs take it for a ride, they can usually tell you what it is straight away. Hope you get it sorted.