SomeNew Name

have fun in jail boys! LOL

I was actually thinking about Painting my Comanche Yellow, I have access to some bright high gloss, and rediciliously thick paint that is used to paint the CL-415 waterbombers, I've had the luxury of building a few of them and snagging the paint that was time expired (shelf life) and the nice thing about it is applied properly it'll mask anything cause it's so thinck, and the colour helps to hide a bit too. The only thing you really have to be very cautious about with this paint more so than other paint is the temp and humidity. It'll be a lil while before I do that, on account of the 5 foot snow banks (and Growing) and the -25C weather.

ohh man I wish I didn't see this thread, cause it reminded me of how much I miss my ol'e babeh.. was a 1985 Chevy Blazer/Silverado K-5,

Ok maybe it's just me but as an AME I found that rediciously funny!!! Dirty you still going to BCIT for A/C maintenence?

Well I'm In North Bay and we hardly got anything and we're known for the redicioulious amount of snow we get. I'm sure we'll be catching up in no time ;) I love being canadian!

best news I've heard all day.. and I live just a wee bit north of you too!! I'll snag a set for sure too..

I have a block heater! <3

most likely

do you actually notice a difference? I have 2 3/16th lines comming from the back of the airbox with the engine running the one line makes a hiss and sucks air in hard.. and the other doesn't do a thing.... you explained to me what you did with on of the lines.. but wouldn't there be provisions for those lines to be mounted on the airtube?

yeah i wouldn't mind seeing pictures.. maybe you can just host them on a website and post the links?

Did you end up getting your Air tube yet? and if you did what did you end up doing about the smaller lines that go to the back of the OEm air box... cause when the engine is running and I unplug one of them.. I hear a hissing noise of it sucking air in.. should I not be blocking that one off? ohh yeah cause I just ordered the rustys air tube too!

wow.. man... just wow LOL

the stress points happen when you use too sharp of a bend radius. The rusting can be treated with an etching acid, and then you can prime it right after it's treated. I like a zinc cromate primer, and it works out for having one of those darker finishes later on. :brows:

I was thinking about using the english wheel..

yeah for those ddbl step flanges for the flairs.. I'm just going to Cut them out and just put a cut every 1" and to all the bends seperatlely.. in theory it should work.. but we all know how stuff that work in theroy work in actuallity.... so if you dream up a good method let me know and vice versa

it's 0.038 so in otherwords it's 20 gauge a we bit smaller than the original bedsides..

correction.. I now make replacement bed sides...4' is the longest i can do.. but I could splice them together for you for a longer section.. http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 010ff3.jpg I just did these today

Well I've been saying I was going to do this for quite sometime.. and well today was a really slow day in the hanger.. so I had alot of extra time on my hands.. so I decided I would crunch some math on profile of the bed sides.. and spent about 2-3 hours getting the Sight lines layed out... god I hate jeep engineers.. can't make it a simple god damn profile could ya!..? well here is the finished product... it's only a 4.5' section cause that's all I needed to replace.. http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 010ff3.jpg

as much as I love working on the mj That blazer has been burned into my heart and soul...

thanks alot for all the info you guys gave me.. I'm keeping my eyes out for a 8.8 with the 4.10s and discs.. sounds like the best bet cause we all know that the mjs brakes suck worth beans. I also came across some interesting information the other day.. about 3 years ago I sold my 85 K5 Blazer, 454, 4.10 D60 front and 12Bolt rear, 3" lift to a buddy of mine... and he called me to let me know that he's selling it again when I sold it to him it only had 56,000 mile on it engine and frame.. now it has 61,000 mile on her.. and he was saying that he would sell it back to me for the price I sold it to him for... that's if I wanted to buy it back... if it were anyother smuck it would be more than double that... So I've been crunching the numbers with the girl to see if I could pull it off without shooting myself in the foot.. if I do end up buying it back.. I might be putting my comanche up for sale just so I could afford to get the blazer back..

:agree: correct me if I'm wrong.. kinda like timing magentos

So I would be much better off going with a 8.8 out of a explorer? would I have to do any cutting or would it be a direct bolt on? would it already come SOA?

I regret to inform you guys of this.. but another MJ d44 has been destroyed.... about 2-3 months ago while I was away teaching aircraft elecrtonics to canadian reserves.. I had an mj stored at my parents house.. while I was gone the frame between the box and the bed.. cracked and then split appart.. and during that time without talking to me.. the truck was sent to the dump and was crushed.. I have spent the last month and a bit trying to track the truck down.. with no luck but today I got a call from the jacka$$ that took it to the dump saying that yeah it was crushed the day he brought it.. :headpop: So now I still have a garbage D35 but I have a buddy that has an 8.8 from a 91 ford ranger 3.55, for $200 and I tracked down a D44 from an MJ but the guy wants $700... what exactly are the differences cause I know nothing about axles? and which one of them would be the better choice?

also am I putting the water to the fire wall or to the line that I just disconnected?

Now to make everything soo much easier I connected all the lines back up and put the coolant temp sensor back in the only line that I have disconnected at the moment is that one line that runs from the return side of the bottle to that tee where it breaks off and one hose goes to the firewall and the other to the "water neck" it's disconnected at the firewall... Now when I hook the hose up. where is the water going to come out of to provide the Flush? back into the bottle? or should I have another line disconnected somewhere with a drain pan under it?