SomeNew Name

Well I know I have asked more question over the last week or so than I have have ever asked in the 9 months I've been a member on here.. but alot of them I've just been sitting on since the winter time.. seeing as how I work in my driveway.. I was wondering if I can swap over the Starter, Altenator, Distrubitor cap, and the Spark plug leads...from my 1992 4.0L HO 4WD AX-15 to my 1990 4.0L 4WD Auto without any problems? And I was also wondering if I can remove the tie rods from the 92 and put them on the 90 without problems or adjustments either ?.. seeing as they are at the same height and are exactly the same front end wise

nah.. I'm doing it to old fashioned way... just waiting for someone to answer my questions before I start..

LOL I love how you guys are ripping on this girl!!!! honestly I'm peeing my pants right now..!!

As far as I knew when bleeding brakes.. you start with the brake where the fluid has to travel the furthest and then work you way to the shortest... but appearently in my MJ Maintenance Manual.. it requires that the front right caliper bleed screw must be open throughout the rear bleeding process... this is so that the pressure differential valve is in a full forward position, and helps with the height sensing valve... can I ignore that jazz.. and just do the normal bleed procedure?.. or should I do it the way thte book wants me too?.. which I think is retarded.. cause height sensing valve isn't even hooked up... Also this is my first time bleeding the brake on a car.. I've done this many times on an aircraft but they're to totally different animals. Anything I should keep an eye out for beside the resovior going dry... what should I look for in the fluid that is comming out of the bleed screw to know that it's time to move on to the next bleed screw? and anyother lil bit of info would be nice.. thanks guys Cheers Eugene

yeah bro.. it's factory.. well appearently it came with the 92's as well 8) I knew that axle was worth keeping

my friend was looking at the rear end of my 92 comanche doner and was trying to tell me that this was a D35 axle.. and I don't know enough to prove him wrong.. so i figured I'd get you guys take a look

switched P/S pumps it was a direct bolt in and no problems were in countered.. it actually went to quick that I was able to start tackleing the drums... which has proven to be quite the P.I.T.A cause on the left side the shoes were stuck to the drums.. and the lil star like adjuster things was completely sezied.. but they are both off now.. and the parking brake cables snaped in half inbetween the backing plate and the equilazer... so now I have to wait until tuesday until I can get the cables.... :cry:

I currently returning a 1990 comanche to servicible condition so that I can use it as a DD.. I also have a 1992 for a parts doner (not much on a doner though as I can't use a portion of what's in there due to the differences in models) which almost everything on it is in great condition, minus the frame (well unibody) which is why I got it for $200 CDN. I was wondering what was worth keeping and swaping to the other truck and how easy it would be to swap it over... or if there are anythign that anyone out there needs. Also I know I have to replace the power steering pump and was wondering if I could use the 92's one and if it would be a direct bolt in. Stats on the trucks: 1990 comanche Eliminator 4.0L I6 4WD automatic 1992 comanche Eliminator 4.0L I6 4WD Manual AX-15 (I think) If you guys want pictures I can supply them.. just have to ask I would be more than happy to be a shutterbug and fire a few pics your way..

Thanks everyone that replied.... the problem has been solved ...on it's own I figured that I would try and start it before I tried anything else and she started up no problem... which is weird enough. but just on the side of caution I decided to toss some grease on the mofo and call 'er good. thanks again!!

ok well I have done some more work.. on this problem..and I'm deffiently not geting a spark.. from the plug at all... so I took one of the leads off the dist cap and grounded it and tired to turn it over to see if I got a spark and Nothing....... I haven't had any expericence with the CPS.. and was wondering if I could take the CPS off of my 92 and it would be the exact CPS hook up and all that jazz.. cause if I could do that it would help me with my troubleshooting.. .... and Everyone feel free to join in on this conversation.. any lil bit of help would be nice.... And thank you Fendermb4 for your helpful advice

OK 1) yes it's intact and map sensor is plugged in 2) tps and IAC is plugged in 3) I don't really know where that system is located a picture would help out alot here 4) yes there seems to be a vaccum line going from the top of the air cleaner to the bottom half of it to what appears to be some sort of a diaphram/bellows thing that opens up a hole to another duct that goes to the lower half of my engine... maybe it's not getting suction? I know this is also a noob question but how would I check for a spark.. I removed one of the plugs and I had my girl turn over the engine while I was watching the plug to see if a spark jumped the gap... and didn't see one (it was the #2 cylinder plug that I removed) Also I would like to add that I have a 1992 4.0L H.O 4wd parts doner so if there is anything I can rob from there to help solve my problem let me know!!

I think I may have disturbed the one going to the map sensor but I'm unsure (just pretend that I did so I can also check that to see if it is the issue).... and after a few tries to start it back up ... it's starting to slow down like the sound from the starter.. so I figured it wasn't getting enough juice from the battery.. so I hooked my girls car to it via booster cables and it made no difference.. this is a rather toublesome problem..

Well I was a nice day out today in Northern Ontario, when Eugene Decided to change his air filter.. After having removed the Air filter I noticed amazing amounts of oil on the filter and pooled at the bottom of the assembly... so I disconnect all lines attaching to the assembly and began to clean the box out...after having cleaned it out of all oil.... I began to re-assembly it together.. I had read in the Maintenance Manual (MM) that oil in the air assembly would denote a faulty CCV so (with the engine off mind you) I removed the plug.. all the rubber was flaking away.. and not being anywhere near a parts store I put it back on and added it to the list of things to replace.. now after putting the assembly back into the bay and installed correctly (this is a visual correctiness) The truck failed to start, during the start the engine temp needle fires over to the right rapidly... and the battery gauge is reading 13-14... so I checked to make sure all my line connections were in fact correct with the MM. I have exhausted all my other options so now I turn to you guys.. I have a feeling I forgot something really silly.. but any help would be awesome.. thanks guys Eugene 1990 4.0L 4wd everything in her is basically stock from 1990

I Love you man !!! :rotfl2:

well I you could just do what I did.. and just hook it up in parrell with the battery, cause that's what you're wanting to read.. as for picking it up off of something else.. you would want to make sure that you are putting it in parrel with something that is using source voltage.. I'm sure someone here would be able to tell you what you could tap off of.. just do your self a favour don't put into series.. cause you would just be adding a huge resistance to the circuit.. cause the resistance of a voltmeter is crazy high something like 50mega ohms and voltage likes the path of least resistance.. soo putting it in parrell give the mutha a choice of where to go... I'm sure the radio runs off of source voltage.. so you could tap off of that, but once again remember PARRELL p.s. One day I hope I learn how to spell parrell!! I'll check the wiring diagrahms when I get home from the hanger... <3

Since I'm mostly likely the only Bilingual frenchman on the board here.. I'll attempt to translate for you guys.. He sayes BASICALLY that he would like to communicate his passion of the comanche with you guys but knows very little english, and has pictures of a project that he will be posting soon enough.. patjeep - J'espère, J'ai obtenu le point à travers, que vous essayiez de faire.

LOL that's awesome, that would make 3 AME's or A&P's that are in love with MJs. AME = the Canadian version of an aircraft maintenance engineer.

Well sounds like your getting a taste of some good ol'e Canadian weather down there. I haven't driven an mj in the winter, and quite frankly I don't think I would. I have a 1985 Chevy K5 Blazer with a 350, 3.73. I use this during the winter and everyday for that matter. Enjoy the clean up :roll: and good thing you moved your mj on thursday.

ditch the bumper :cheers:

Ok so I had sometime to crawl around and under the truck this is was I think is present in the truck. Engine = 4.0L I6 MPI Power Tech HO Transmission= Ax-15 T-case = NP 242 Axles (front) D30 27 spline (Rear) D35 c-clip 27 spline Gears= 3.07 Gas Tank= 18 gallons If there is anything you are interested in me taking a look at (maybe cause you're interested in it) I'll go out and take a peak, also if it's something I'm not overly confortable in Identifying, please provide an explaination on how to Identify the item you're interested in. Eugene

:popcorn:

I own a 1990 4.0L and I have just recently found out that my neighbour is selling his 1992 4.0L HO for $400 CAD. Now as most of you may know My box is shot, and I do not want to take the time to repair it, but I already have done alot of work on it. I also require a rear bumper. His truck is in incredible shape except for the frame under the box being cracked in 3 different locations, (I understand that the jeep is a unibody but the rear end is more frame like if anything). I was wondering if the mounting points are the same for the box on the 92 as they are on the 90. Also like I said this truck is in amazing condition besides the frame aspect, so I was planning on just buying it, removing the box and the rear bumper and then parting it out or just selling it to a auto recycler. If I were to buy it would anyone want anything out of it before I give it to the auto recyclers. For a fee of course :roll: Also it has buckets and 5 speed maunal it is hard for me to get pictures of it as I don't have a digital camera and I only use disposible cameras (which is full now from going to see the avro arrow) Everything about the truck is currently stock that means Engine, tranny, axles (d35s I think) even tires, so expect everything to be in amazing condition. just let me know what you guys think and thanks for reading this Novel, and taking the time to reply. Eugene

Pete is right. The standard is 18 inches of clearance from the water to the tip of the prop. But with this A/C maintaining a good CofG is as easy as relocating a fire extinguisher alittle more forward or aft. An AD (airworthiness Directive) was issued about this A/C. I think it was about the hub of the prop comming off during flight, and having to replace the hardware (must have been a defect batch of bolts). I'm not too sure I'll look it up net time I'm at work.

I can't really say I'm a big fan of the pusher type props, I find they are highly unefficent, and es the Buccaneers are a horrid A/C for payload but i think they are a STOL A/C are they not?

I used to work on 215's before they remoed alot of them from service and have worked on a few 415's, I love doing test runs on those beasts, specially on the 215's. When they fire up the 215's with the old radial engines it just makes my heart pound. it's the most beautiful sound you have ever heard. Kinda like a beaver being fired up. there is just something about the radial engine that get's me going. plus it's the best piston engine out there, best power/weight ratio on every A/C beats the pants of any Opposed engine.