SomeNew Name

well i got that sucker off a long time ago! I didn't bother using a torch cause I don't have access to one.. I just got soo pissed off that I grabbed a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 10 foot cheat pipe and tightened the sucker until the stud broke... thanks for the advice..

so there is the possiblility that I might be able to get away with using the fuel pump? just not the sending unit... is there a way that I woiuld be able to adjust the pressure being sent.. maybe a screw of some sort?

Are the fuel pump and the sending units for a 1992 comanche the same as a 1990 comanche?

Damn guys sounds like all of you have it rough... my girl asks me if she can help me with it... she's actaully does alot of the wiring on it.. she's an avionics engineer, but at first she didn't like the truck at all.. she started to warm up too it.. once I got it looking a bit better.. now most of the time she just grabs a pair of my old jeans and a t-shirt and raids my tool box and gets right too it.. and on top of it all... SHE DOES A GOOD JOB.

dude I think I might have an extra one kicking around.. let me take a look and get back to you

Yeah .. most of my brake cables are fine.. some scaling in some spots.. but nothing to start worrying about. For the saftey.. all I'm going to do is just clean them up a wee bit and then paint them.. so they look nice... like I said .. I'm cheap. and the rubberized undercoating here is like $8 bucks as well..

yeah I was thinking about doing that, cause I have the whole box off right now... ohh yeah and every stud/bolt broke off inside the box too.. just my luck... and while my buddie was helping me move the box.. he dropped his side by accident.. and crushed the bedside inwards right around the gas filler... so I wasn't too happy... But yeah I got a can of simple rust converter.. and some rubberized undercoating.. I was hoping it would do the trick.. cause a can of por-15 here in canada is like $60.. I don't know how much it is down there.. but forget that jazz.. I'm a cheap mofo.. also inregards to the gas tank... I was thinking more along the lines of the pump.. or something else.... but great advice none the less.. thanks

just like the topic sayes.... anthing I should be checking or doing while it's off? thanks again!

I just used self tapping screws and made new ones :brows:

Breaker Bars and cheat pipes have been basically the only method I've been using and alot of the time it just doesn't cut the cheese. I would assume it would be safer to use a torch, when the gas tank is full, than when it is empty, cause it's the actual fumes that cause the flame. right? that's why fuel is vapourized/ or atomized when it hits the cylinders. not to mention a better burn. right? am I flawed in assuming so? I filled the gas tank with water, until it started pouring out of the disconnected rubber hoses, so that I would feel safe when using a cut off tool to remove the skid plate on the tank. Now that I have that set up for me.. I don't think I should have any problems removing the gas tank. Now it comes down to the 2 bolts in the X-member. I have used someones advice to use a pin punch and a ball peen to hit the head of the bolt to loosen the threads but unfortunatley didn't loosesn it up at all :cry: I just want those Flippen bolts out.. it's been a huge headache for me.. and I myself don't have much experience with a torch and wouldn't know where to begin if I wanted to try to remove/ cut the bolts out. If I just wanted to loosen the bolt, Would I heat up the area around the bolt to allow for thermal expansion? and if I wanted to cut it what would I want to do? Please Note: That if I do use a torch it would be a propane one, really cheap and I think my neighbour has one. Thanks for the help so far guys I really appreaciate it.

I'm pretty interested in doing this with a MJ front combo valve, can I use one from a 92 on a 90? and if so I would love it if you can school me on doing it.

lol, well, there is my neighbour that has one, but I really don't like asking to borrow peoples tools, If you need to ask for it more than once, you need to go buy your own. Also even if I go to use the torch there still is the problem with the ga tank being full of fumes.. and I'm not a big fan of being bald.. would I be fine if I just filled the tank with water and slap down a fan or two?

No torch, and no welder :cry:

Well I've been soaking them in Liquid Wrench, it's all I have available to me at the moment. Also note that the entire underbody was coated in a thick rubberized coating.. and is present under bolt heads, (even after being cleaned) which doesn't help the penetranting solvent do it's job. I've thought about filling the gas tank with water and grinding all the heads off to remove it but that would still leave the 2 in the X-member to be removed and the grinder won't fit in there. Any methods for getting those out? is it possible to fit something between the X-member and the box that would cut the bolts? I'm just trying to remove the box to put on to another comanche, and hardwear can be replaced. I'm also all game for the most savage methods possible, I just want it off.

well I've been having problems removing the box from my 92 comanche.. it seems that it jut doesn't want to come off. I managed to have 2 studs completly unthread from the box on the passanger side just infront of the X-member, the other 2 parrell to that are not budging, I'm able to get at those with the grinder. The 2 in the X-member are not moving either, I had a working air drill which I attached a socket to, ended up shearing off on the drive threads.. so it's outta commision (it's helped me with alot of rusty bolts). So now my tooling is limited to Deep Sockets and breaker bars and pipes now. :cry: I have a compressor but nothing to use with it but the cut off tool. Now since my tooling is so limited and I still can't get those bolts to move what should I do? do I have any options here? Also the gas tank has a skid plate that is stuck to the bed, I don't need it , so anyway I can remove it is acceptible. NOTE: the gas tank is empty and the lines all disconnected and plugged but fumes are running rampant there so heat and electric tools (in my mind are outta the question unless safe working proceedures are presented ) ;) Thanks in advance for the help guys! Cheers! Eugene

man.. I have like 5 sets what colour would you like.. I have 2 sets of red , 1 set black.. and 2 sets marron... I live in canada.. send me a pm if you want them.. i'll fire them your way cheap as hell cause I want to get rid of them!

I have like 4 of those chilling right her at my house in perfect working order.... need them?

:agree:

where in ontario are you?

bro I have some brackets that you could buy off me.. the only thing is I live in Canada... so shipping might be a pain but you would get your brackets!

I have 2 of them for sale.. but I'm in canada!

thanks, ust need some more info on the other topics and I chould be good to go!

nah.. mitch you're right... I wasn't thinking when I asked the question... it's a dumb question..

Wow Look at that tree!!! Are ya going to lift it? LOL

can I exchange plugs from a 4.0L HO to a 4.0L renix with no problems... I noticed that the H.O plugs are a long reach plug (what looks like it) will that interfear with the travel of the piston? the numbers on the side of the plugs differ as well (obviously, a dumb statement on my behalf)