Biotex

If you go to google images, and type in jeep vinyl graphics, or something similar, you will get lots of neat ideas. I was looking for the Comanche badges in black vinyl, and was scouting around. There are some cool and funny ideas out there.

Works for me! Anyone got one?

13 hours for me. Will most likely stay only 3 days. Would be nice to meet up with others along the route getting there. I pass through El Paso & Albequerque for instance. Looks like I will cross I-10, I-20, and I40...from South to North.

Wish I had the Ballz to do that to my rig. Looks like you know how to have some fun with it...

DRComanche... I want it if you don't get it. If you can get a phone number from the guy, that would be awesome.

Just won an E-bay bid for some front 3.55 gears. Looks like my next task will be to swap in my 8.8 disc brake axle, and set up the front to match. Looks like I have enough cash left to go ahead and order the U-pol raptor, so that will happen real soon also. I will need to order some spyder-trax wheel spacers for the rear also. IIRC the 8.8 is around 5/8" to 1" narrower. I need to fill those wide flares anyways... I've got a brand new set of 5 BFG Mud terrains (12.5 x 33) mounted on a set on Moab rims. Once the 8.8 is installed, I'll be more comfortable running them in Sept. for the Moab trip. Anyone have a roll bar for sale? I have a bender and some tube, but only have 1 3/4" dies. I think that would look too funny. 2" DOM minimum.

My first plane was a Turbo Arrow. That is still an indian name isn't it? Then I bought a Cherokee 140. I'm also an A&P. Love all pipers... Sorry for the hijack! I'm out.

I remember reading your build when you sprayed everything. IIRC you purchased 4 bottles? I'm going to attempt it with 2 bottles. Mistake? Just the bed, bed rails, lower rocker panels.

Piper also made a cherokee FWIW

I realize the gears are only reverse cut, not reverse rotation, but I threw that in because that is the terminology most people use, so if someone is doing a search in the future, it would possibly come up. The confusion comes from me not remembering which pinion uses the reverse cut. High or low. Thanks for the clarification.

On a high pinion front axle, should the gears be reverse or normal rotation? If it were low pinion, would it be the same? Trying to wrap my head around this, and am confused between high and low pinions...

I'm going with U-Pol Rapter sprayed on. Pre tinted black. I wish I could afford the Linex product. I just can't justify the cost when I can do-it-myself for around $150. I'm really tring to push the build so I can make the MOAB trip in Sept. That's the only reason the noisy rear D35 bothers me so much. If I install the 8.8 I already have, then I will have to regear the front. More $$$$, so I may have to decide to let the bedliner go till after. I spent too much on my shop add on last month, so trying to save back up. Unless I buy some used D30 gears in a 3.54 ratio!!!!

At first, I was going to bedline the sides up to the last contour line. Then I backed down one notch thinking there would be too much black. Now, with the flares installed, I'm thinking I will just to the very first contour, leaving the wide flat area white. It is far easier to add more bedliner than to remove it. I have no plans to coat the flares. I paid extra for the textured ones, and they look fine to me. I definitely like the flat flare look. Don't see many of them. Thanks for your comments!

Am thinking about swapping in an 8.8 axle that has 3.55 gears. My D30 has 3.08's, so will have to address that. Problem is, I'm not ready to tackle the front, and will want to drive the truck in the mean time. Got me to wondering, if I were to leave the front drive shaft installed, but disconnect the axles shaft and lock it out, what would happen if I were to put it in 4wd? Would it become 3wd? Would it be extra hard on the driver side axle and possibly break? Chances are I would not need to shift into 4wd, and I would most likely just remove the front axle anyways, but I'm just wondering what the consequences are...

Only way I see I can get a rollbar out to West Texas, would be to cut it up so it will lay flat as possible, and ship it to me. I can easily weld it back together like new. What do you think? Anyone want to do it?

Seems odd they would produce a product for the long bed before the short bed. Weren't the short beds production numbers considerably higher?

Here is a better side shot.

No, they are the correct ones. Leaves room for sliders if nothing else. Once I bedline the rockers, it won't be so noticeable.

Very Cool rig! Congratulations. :thumbsup:

I understand the WJ arms are beefier, and allow more room for the tires at full lock, but can't remember if they are longer. I'm wanting to get longer lowers, but don't want to spend for the cost of new adjustable ones. JY WJ ones would be good enough for my needs. OT. If you shop around on mudflaps.com, you can usually find some pretty good deals on coils.

Got the bumpers from a fellow CC member. He shipped them to me, and they bolted in place perfectly. Yeah, cutting the fenders was painful, but only way to get the look I'm after and the clearance I need. The way I see it, it is something the factory should have done to begin with. The ball joints tested ok, my death wobble was induced by the tires being out of balance, and those heavy steel rims. With the aluminum rims, and a good balancing, it appears fixed. I haven't really tested it too much yet, but so far so good.

Update: Popped the cover, and can find no visible damage to any gears. I found no new metal shavings either, since I only have a couple hundred miles on since changing it, I wasn't too surprised. Here is what I did. Put up on jack stands, and ran her in gear without any oil in the rear, but the cover on. I noted the noise by putting my ear to the pumpkin. I can definitely hear the gears, but not too unusual, just noisy. Refilled with oil, and repeated. No difference I could tell, so I pulled the wheels off both sides along with the drums. Definitely took away some noise, but not the noise that concerns me. I could stop each side of the axle with my hand, so I can eliminate the axle bearings, because no change when I stop either side from spinning. I have basically narrowed down the noise to the gears or bearing inside the pumpkin. I put my ear right next to the pinion bearing, and I would have to say that it is not the culprit. It is either the carrier bearings in the case, or the gears themselves. I'm still stumped, but since the gears and spiders appear ok, I might as well replace those carrier and pinion bearings huh?

http://www.softopper.com/jeep-comanche-soft-top-truck-cap-details.aspx#prettyPhoto Not bad looking. Bet they get hot inside though.

Today I mounted the 31's onto the factory turbine rims and had them balanced. Then I brought Maura into the shop and started with the fender flares install. First I cut out some metal, and let me tell you that was a hard thing to bring myself to do. Then I bolted on the Napier flares. I bought the textured ones with the edge guard and stainless steel hardware. Awesome product. Then I started on the front bumper so I could install the front flares. Before: After: Side shot: I'll install the front flares tomorrow. I'm wore out... :cheers:

Maybe a worn motor mount. When you decelerate, the weight shifts so that metal on metal happens, and transfers the vibration. Also check the tranny mount.