Biotex

I'm sooo jealous!

With a faster truck, you need better steering, better brakes, better seat belts, boxed frame, etc... By the time you do all those upgrades, it isn't really a Willys anymore. It becomes so modern that it loses it's appeal to me. I just felt that was not what I was after. I really wanted it to look brand new, but original. Here is a teaser shot of the 21 gal tank I installed. Sorry, I hijacked the thread.

Thanks for the laugh Jim! I was having a bad day till now.

When I remove an axle, I leave the springs attached to it until I can raise the whole frame and roll the axle out the back end. Once the assembly is out, I tip it upside (if SUA) down and remove the nuts off the u-bolts. A lot easier to get an impact or breaker bar on them that way. To me, removing the axle is easiest that way. I also leave the tires on so things roll around easier. If you want to leave the front spring bushings attached, you can lower the rear only, and roll the axle out. The fronts of the springs will stay attached to the hangars. Make sense?

Here is a 4.3L TBI Chevy engine I put into my 52 Willys truck two years ago. I should have kept it all original. IMO I ruined a good build. I kept thinking I need to be able to keep up with the speed limit (85 mph). WRONG! I learned a lesson on that build.

I doubt you'd get the aluminum clean enough on the inside to TIG it properly. Even if you got the outside stupid clean, you'd get oil seepage through the crack once it got hot. IMO you'd need to gut the case and have it hot tanked or boiled out to fix it once and for all. Just my thoughts here. I'm not a professional welder, but I have a good friend who is. He skills are just awesome. I've watched him plenty, and he spends more time prepping the surface than actual welding.

I use acetone to clean the inside of tanks. Dissolves varnish nicely. Then if you need something stronger, use muratic acid and warm water. slosh it around with some nuts and bolts inside. Some use marbles or something else that will scratch the surface while sloshing.

Might try using an eraser on the metal ribbon connectors. Those copper strips on the back of the cluster get corrosion. A pencil eraser will clean them up nicely. Same for around where the lights twist in.

Just sent you an e-mail reserving a set. will be installed withing a day of arrival to W. Texas.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36694-military-wrapped-springs-with-lift-group-buy/ Going to be a lot cheaper that $560.

That's your turn signal switch basically. I does a lot of other things beside just the turn signals, so it is referred to as a multifunction switch. I believe they are around $45 at NAPA

Doesn't the fuel guage come out of the cluster? You should be able to take the old one out and swap it into your new cluster.

WOW! This new info just blows me away. All these years I was under the impression the 4.2L and the 4.0 had different bolt patterns. I can't believe I didn't check it out for myself before now. This opens up a whole new realm for me since I have a bunch of spare parts that now could possibly be made to work in my MJ.

http://www.copyright.gov/legislation/dmca.pdf The authority...

My thoughts exactly. Problem will be in getting the wifey to come back alone. She doesn't do that well! Wonder if I can get a bereavment fare for a cousin? Every little bit will help.

Bad multifunction switch would be my guess.

Sounds like the mutifunction switch might have gone bad. Not too pricey, but a bear to change.

OMG! How fast things can change around us. Just now got word that a cousin was killed in a car wreck late last night. Looks like i'll be going to Tampa, Fl in a couple of days. Maybe I can figure out a way to detour through Charlotte or something. Jeez! :grrrr:

I've looked at the trip several different ways, and flying in to Atlanta seems the best way. Alternate route would be Charlotte yes. When I figure in the cost of fuel for the trip home, and the airline ticket there, not much left over for any car rentals or whatever.

Guys, I purchased a new to me MJ, and it is currently about 30 miles East of Asheville, NC at a friends farm. I'm wanting to fly in and drive it home to West Texas, but the last leg of the trip is proving to be difficult. I need to get to the farm from the airport at Atlanta about 200 miles away. Another option would be to have the truck trailered to the Atlanta airport where I would drive from there. If anyone can help me to unite with my new Comanche, please let me know. I don't have a problem paying for someones gas if they can help. My only other solution is to wait until March when another friend will drive it back home for me, but i'd rather it be me driving the trip. The truck is near I-40 in the Old Fort area. Thanks, Eric

Isn't the 4.0L in Comanches the same block as in Wranglers? I'm pretty sure the 4.2L 258 CID is the AMC pattern, not the 4.0L. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Fuel sending unit is located inside the gas tank. There is a wire that runs to it. It reads ohms from the sender and sends that signal to the dash guage. A quick test is to ground that wire momentarily (key on) and the needle should start moving to full. If not, you can rule out the sender in the tank.

Another way to lock it over instead of the upside down cover is to use a hose clamp. Just slide the collar over and put a worm style hose clamp onto the shaft to lock the collar from moving. Seen it done with no ill effects.

Did you verify the correct bulbs in the rear? Someone put an 1156 into an 1157 socket on my truck when I first got it, and was doing the same as yours is. Worked on hazzards except the right front. Sounds eerily similar...

If you're not familiar with these CJ10A tugs, they are basically a merger of a CJ tub on a shortened Cherokee frame. Wagoneer D44's and springs are a direct bolt in. The cherokee frame is twice as beefy as a CJ's, so there is no flex. Makes for an incredibly capable crawler. The normally aspirated SD33 diesel engine is kind of doggy, but add the turbo option and it wakes up. I wheeled that truck in Ouray on all the trails, and it did fine up to about 13,000 feet. Then she started stubling. Never let me down though. I ran 4.10's, and found them to be the minimum you want without the turbo. Fuel mileage was not as good as expected at 17mpg. I think the 35's and 4.10's was the reason. I didn't care though. It was a toy!