ftpiercecracker1

:teehee:

Ya the only reason i said what i said is because i too first used HF and i broke ALL of them within the first 2 spot welds. The teeth literally snapped off as soon as they made contact with the metal, :headpop: . When i got mine from Blair it came with three heads total which means 6 cutting sides, i still have 1 and a half good heads. And thats after cutting about 40 welds, for me personally i will never use anything else. :thumbsup: Blairs heads kept working even with only 3 teeth left on the bit.

Oh ya, forgot about the vacuum do-hicky, i got rid of mine so long ago i forgot about it :D . This thing. . .

No way. Looks good to me i have the same issue. :yes: hey the tip is the most important part lol :yes: I knew you guys just could'nt leave it alone. :rolleyes:

Ok so, besides the difference in blinker pattern everything is working great now. BUT, yes i know this is getting old, when the truck is up to temp the HL kick on and off sporatically, I am nearly certain it is because the switch is getting warm because of the brighter HL i have in. What can be done about this so that they don't shut off? The other thing is the electric fan switch, i let the truck warm up today and let the temp needle get right on the line before the red/orange zone and the fan never came on. I have tested the sensor in a pot of boiling water and it seems to be operating as it should. Water starts to get a little bubbly, pre boiling temp, and the circuit becomes closed. Using a multimeter it goes from infinite resistance to about .4 which tells me the sensor is perfectly fine. I also checked the wiring. Turning the key to run, I have 12 volts to the sensor plug and using a jumper wire to connect the two leads the fan immediately comes on and i can hear the relay engage. So WTH?? :fs1:

No offense Miser but harbor freight sucks giant donkey bowls. Blair is the only way to go, but don't fall for the "fancy" versions, their most basic spot weld cutter is hands down the best. http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html Skip to the bottom of the page, "Blair Double-End Spotweld Cutter 13224" these are the ones you want. Make sure to order an extra set of replacement heads or else you will find your self waiting for replacements halfway through the project. :thumbsup:

These should help give you an idea, your gonna need a mig too. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how-i-just-put-new-floorpans-patched-holes-xj-lots-pics-372669/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/24600-project-1992-michigan-comanche/ For me personally i used a single sheet of 12g cold roll and two sheets of 22g for the really tight spots with lots of bends. Also invest in a nice BFH, could not have done it without one

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/ About 3/4 of the way down in this writeup you will find what controls your "blend" door, this is the door that diverts air either to be pulled through the a/c or the heater core. If the diaphram stops working or startings leaking it will only hold the door open for a moment until the vacuum is not strong enough. If it were my truck this is what i would be looking at and yes you have to pull the dash. hopefully someone else will chime in to verify.

I think your bar sheath is a little under sized.

Glad to know it worked out for you, but i'm sorry the bit about her points is, Horse. Sh*t. Just because her 'daddy' is Mr. big time lawyer doesnt mean she is above the law. If she already has so many points she obviously doesnt need to be driving, give her a bicycle or a scooter, so she won't be a danger to other, more responsible drivers. sorry, this kinda thing gets me irritated. :soap box: Carry on, ftpiercecracker

Ok, which filament in the bulbs are responsible for blinking? I am still having issues with this darn thing. Even though it works, I think the whole harness is just FUBAR. This is NOT my bulb, just using it for filament reference. On the side that has the original socket (passenger side), the shorter filament is the one responsible for blinking, while the taller one comes on as the running light. However, on the side with the New socket (driver side), the opposite happens, actualy the blinker doesnt work at all and only the shorter filament lights. Yes i followed Byrdocks instructions. After much thought i cut the connections and matched color to wire, black to black, blue to blue, brown to gray with black stripe and the blinker works. However, the next issue is HOW they blink. With the HL off, the blinkers flash together, but with the HL or RL on they blink opposite. Sidemarker goes dark, indicator flashes, sidemarker goes dark, indicator flashes. I don't think this is supposed to happen, i think they are supposed to blink together whether or not HL are on, sooo. :dunno:

I have plastic sockets and i have replaced every screw in the headlight bezels (?) with small self tapers, work great even in the fiberglass.

To the housing i assume.

mistaken, the lines going to the DB are double flare.

I think you mean distribution block, this right? Image Not Found Its probably called both, distribution block is just what i have heard and use. :dunno: Find a cherokee with non abs brakes and pull off the lines that go to the master cylinder. Ignore what is outlined, look at the Master cylinder. Do you see the brake lines running to the distribution block? Those are the ones you need, they are direct bolt on without having to do all the crazy bending by hand. I did this TODAY on my 90 eliminator. As for flares, the ones going INTO the DB are double, the ones going INTO the MC, those are "bubble".

thanks Byrdock. :thumbsup: and another thing, apparently when a bulb goes in the front wiring harness or there is a fault, the correlating indicator in the dash becomes lit. I noticed this tonight when i turned my headlights on and the left turn signal was iluminated, although the running lights were functioning, the left blinker didnt work, again, until i wiggled the socket. Blinker came on, indicator acted normal, flashing when engaged, dark when not. Just FYI :cheers:

So after much toil, frustration, longs nights, and cramped neck muscles staring blankly at wires I am certain i have located (at least one) of my elusive eletrical problems. The light socket for the driver side indicator, the one directly below the HL is apparently worn out or just plain faulty. With the drivers side blinker engaged, nothing will happen, UNTIL you wiggle the wires on said socket. Then everything works, dash light indicator, side marker, and the blinker itself. ALL bulbs are new and of same brand, both relays in the fuse panel are new (flasher and blinker), the Oh-So important electrical connector for the HL harness has been disconnected, cleaned, and reinstalled. ALL grounds have been redone and moved, where advised. Now onto the question, how do i go about replacing the socket or upgrading the HL harness? thanks for everything ftpiercecracker

:popcorn:

:laughin: , your funny i wish i was far enough along to be running a dual setup. Maybe someday, but right now I am goin on week 2 still trying to figure out why my blinkers arent functioning right.

Doubt very seriously any comanche ever came with a dual battery setup, diesel or not. But if you want to know more about them and how you might go about setting one up, these are three of the best guides that i have found on the internet. http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/electrical/154_1106_june_2011_randys_electrical_corner/ http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/dual01.html http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50

It might be just enough to pass state safety tests or whatever that is. But for a permenant fix this writeup is the only one i know about. EDIT: Something that might help without completely dismantleing the assembly is to replace the small retaining spring that holds the keeper arm against the pedal.

I see you are quite familar with Haynes handywork. :rotfl2:

Then i would say some, if not all of the inline fuses are burnt on the wires going to your starter relay. You would never know it because of the heavy duty insulation that covers the "fuse" section of the wire. You did say the starter relay is new right?

Makes it sound more like a power distribution problem or a ground issue. I'd pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean it. I'd really look into the cables and grounds. bulkhead connector? The very farthest right hand corner of the engine bay. Its where all the wires run into the cab compartment. It is held on by a single 1/4" hex head bolt, in the very center of the connector. You will need a deep well 1/4" drive socket and ratchet to loosen it. The bolt itself does not come out.

Didnt mean to post this again, :doh: don't know how that happened, but thanks for the compliment jim. :)