ftpiercecracker1

This is a radiator i have had my eye on. http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/details/Jeep/Comanche/Crown/Radiator/1990/52003933.html/?sc=Product+Listing+Page:4

Remember XJs of the same year will also work, at least for the engine bay.

From what i can tell, the only things going for the truck are the lift, paint, rims, and tires. Its not 4x4, not a 92, not a special package, no skid plates, no cd player, not even a full cluster. Interior doesnt match and there is a very large defect on the steering column. Kinda looks like its been scraped really bad. Who ever bought this truck had no idea how much money they just blew for nothing. They could have found one just as nice on craigslist for a 1/4 of that and spent the rest of the money making it into the sickest MJ to ever roll down the road. Seriously, if thats how much a truck like this sold for, i know for a fact there are 15-20k dollar trucks on this site.

Mine has been stuffed under the coolant bottle. But i have since traced the wires and found they went to a plug inside the cab that then went from there to a switch that never did anything. Its been a very long time since i removed the switch, so i have no idea what it might have been originally for, but i do know from seeing factory setups that it was most likely for power/comfort.

I spent 3 hrs tracing this plug and on mine it was for the power/comfort switch, which doesnt exist because its a 5spd. As for the other plug i just popped the terminal out of the plug instead of cutting wires.

Picture #2 This diagram is accurate to mine as far as the fuel pump. Image Not Found Picture #1. Image Not Found

Next question, I have never been able to determine with 100% certainty which setup my jeep has when it comes to the bank of relays on the Passenger side fender well. These are the two diagrams that i have come across. FYI The inside of my door says 89 4.0, it is one of the last to be made in 89.

To be honest, all the wiring under my dash actually looks pretty good. But that's because I spent days tracing, cutting, and pulling out all those extra plugs. Yes everything does still work. I can't imagine the unknown plug is for an E fan, because my stock unit is already accounted for and I have yet to hear of an MJ that came with dual E fans. Appreciate the input guys. Ftpiercecracker

There are two electrical plugs that have never been in use since the day i bought my truck and was wondering if anyone had an idea. Both plugs have a significant amount of wiring, so they clutter up the engine bay, something i would like to address. Plug #1 I am almost certain this was for factory fog lamps, but the truck has never had them. Image Not Found Image Not Found Plug #2 Totally clueless Image Not Found Image Not Found This is another plug that i would to get rid of. I am fairly certain it is for the shift light in the dash, which i find pointless. Image Not Found Even though there are four wires going into and out of the above plug, only two are being used. Image Not Found Is there any reason to keep the above plugs? What are they even for? Thanks, ftpiercecracker

I think thats a new record, seven duplicate reposts. :papers:

I agree, diesel or not, underpowered is underpowered.

MPG maybe? But if the TQ figures are that bad, he will probably stay the same if not lose mpg.

I think a comanche would sh*t a brick if you tried to stuff a 6bt under the hood. :laughin: As awesome as it would be, those things weigh about as much as the whole truck. I got to see a bare block a while back at a machine shop, thing was massive.

Just for my own personal information what other standalone management systems are you familiar with?

Good plan, but those arent exactly easy to find and if you do they aint cheap.

Thats what the bed is for Jim. :D

Brown Dog mounts are nice if you can swing it.

Awesome. :chillin:

I am a bit confused, how did the fan make contact with the pulley? I bet it made a great noise when it went.

Do you have any experience with Megasquirt? A while back i was planning on building my own turbo/stroker and spent hours on the web searching, calling, and annoying various people. IF i did everything myself and didnt go with crazy expensive parts, i probably could have done it for a little less than $1200, whether it would be "right" or not . . . :dunno: .

Keep me posted. :thumbsup:

After much searching i have finally found a simple way to run two electric fans without needing a hard switch in the dash or an expensive auxilary fan controller. Your first step actually is to follow Hornbrod's fan installation guide http://comancheclub.com/topic/7895-dual-oem-aux-fan-installation/?hl=electric+fans Once, your second fan is intalled, visit this link << http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=234 >> and buy the 200/210 switch You will also need one of these << http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=94 >> I got mine from NAPA, same price when shipping is added on. To make this work you will need an HO thermostat housing, a relay and socket, and an OEM electric fan, all are EXTREMELY easy to find at the junkyard. Relay setup, Left is for stock E-fan Right is for new E-fan Switch installed Image Not Found How the fan looks installed, yes i know about the wire nuts, don't follow my example. :thwak: Image Not Found Close up of the clearance, this is with hex head bolts, no washers/lock washers Image Not Found Spacer needed for 2nd electric fan, i made mine. Image Not Found Relay wiring diagram, i choose my 12v to be hot 100% of the time so that the fan will continue to run even with the key off until the temp has dropped enough. Image Not Found I know I am a little short on details, so if you have any questions about this install don't hesitate to PM me. Also, i think this setup would work even better if a lower reading sensor for the factory fan where to be installed as well. I have tested my system with only the factory fan plugged in and it kicks on at roughly 230 and back off at 210, way to long to wait for backup if the first fan can't handle the heat. There are a TON of these switches out there and i will probably be adding one shortly.

There is only so much the ECU can compensate for, but you are right that it does help prevent detonation and that is why I would want to use Renix for a stroker. When you add Boost it changes so many dynamics its not even funny.

You seriously need to visit jeepstrokers.com if you want to do this right. wide ban O2, fuel management, blow off valve, oil lines, down pipe configuration, just for starters, its complicated. Detonation is going to be you #1 enemy. 8psi is the most boost i have ever heard being used in a 4.0 reliably. I talked with a guy at great length a while back who built a turbo stroker 4.7 for his MJ, i can't remember how much boost he ran, but when it was all said and done he had put 18K into the motor alone. But then again he was makin 600hp and 650ft/lbs , no bullsh*t . Still, gotta looove that whistle. :yes:

Ah, thanks for the numbers guys :thumbsup: Mine is all renix save the newer PS and idler.