ftpiercecracker1

Ok, now that I have a firmer understanding of the difference and correlation between HP and TQ I think i feel a little more confident moving onto the actual mechanics of what goes into these insane little 4cyls. Since the majority of us here do not have much import experience, lets use old reliable 2.5 4cyl and see what it would take to squeeze a 1000hp out of the poor bastard. Or better yet if anyone here has built a 1000hp GAS 4cyl please share the build process. Going back to the fantasy 1000hp 2.5 build. Obviously budget is a term that has no meaning for this particular conversation so disregard any kind of perceived cost prohibiting factors whatever they might be. What is preventing someone, with deep enough pockets, from reaching a 1000hp? What is the weak link in 2.5? How can it be overcome?

My brain hurts trying to comprehend all of this. :smart: To understand the original question we must break things down into the simplest terms possible. We need to define what torque is and what horsepower is and how they relate to one another. From what Oyaji said it would seem that an increase in torque results in an increase of HP, how this is so i do not fully understand. Since big diesel generators can create 800ft/lbs yet only develop 100hp. From what i understand neither an increase in TQ or HP dramatically effects the other. They are two separate decriptions of expended energy. TQ a stationary, HP involves movement. TQ describes how much force is applied, while HP is the duration or the length at which the given TQ can be sustained.

I searched for hours on google trying to find a thread that explained this in vain. How on earth is it possible that these guys can get a 1000hp+ out of these tiny 4cyl?? Even with all billet/forged internals and obviously massive turbo(s) there has to be something else going on. I assume it is simply a matter of how these engines are engineered from the start that makes them capable of handling such HP, but that being said what is that something? Extra thick block walls? Space-age alloys? I got on this kick that, if a guy with _____ import can cram 20+ lbs of boost into his little 4-6cyl, take a little time tuning, and make insane hp/tq why can't I? From an engineers POV what is limiting us from doing the same? Stroke length? Oiling system? Cam design? I know the standard answers already like, "It'll just push the head gaskest out", "the 4.0 head simply doesn't flow that well" or "the internals simply aren't up to that" OK, to that i say, Solid copper head gasket, all billet/forged internals (crank, rods, pistons), not sure what the solution would be for the head aside from a total redesign/ custom one off. The most psi I have EVER heard of someone running in a jeep 4.0l straight six was about 10-12psi, i read all. the. time. of guys running 25-30+ psi in their little imports. how? How?? HOW!? This has been bugging the absolute hell out of me. and for your viewing pleasure, here are a few examples of some relatively small motors make crazy power. Please disregard the lambo and/or ferrari. This is probably the best video on youtube, at least as far as car freaks go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgfhGEw03k8

Ya? How'd that work out for ya? :D Any time i tried that (dad is/was a farrier) either they would shoot out like a bullet, not crack at all, or turn into natures hand grenade, destroying the meat and embedding shards of shell in my face. Black walnuts are probably the most difficult nut to crack in the north america, IMHO. Eventually i got wise i just used the bench vise and a cheater bar, sweet jesus are those things hard.

Everything you ever wanted to know about either stroking and/or boosting a 4.0 can be found/learned over on jeepstrokers.com I am still a member but havent been on in ages since my dreams of building a stroker for myself were dashed. :cry: I still have every single bit and piece needed to build one i just lack the funds for the machining. Everybody has been spot on so far. Making the power isnt the issue its stopping the load. Whatever you plan on pulling make sure its got a good set of trailer brakes. :thumbsup:

Thanks jimoshel thats exactly what i was trying to figure out. I suppose that means 96+ have the different door striker, yes? Then you are on your own my furry not-so-little friend.

That is one HELL of a nut cracker, :eek:. I wonder if its strong enough to crack black walnuts, probably would have to break out a cheater bar. :D

:needpics:

OP has manual windows, no regulator to be had. I believe that the worm gea in the metal track inside the door is stripped. I had to replace mine on both doors and have determined that i will find a set of power doors and swap them in before going through that again. I suggested to the OP that he find a cherokee with a good working manual window and just swap out the whole door, replacing those PITA torx bolts with traditional hex heads. Is there any difference between the 86 year model and the rest of the MJs as far as doors go? All Cherokee doors are still direct swaps right? With the understanding that 97+ have a different door striker of course.

Not entirely sure, i will have to ask about that. Does it meet all the other requirements? PM me.

Well guys, he bought it . . . . :rant: aaaaand he paided the full $1400 :rant: aaaaand he didnt even bother to negotiate :rant: . Come to find out his dad had cut him a cashier's check for $1400, no questions asked. Before driving it i figured 750-800 would have been a fair price, but once i actually saw the truck and drove it, if you can even call it driving, i wouldn't have given a nickle more than $500. After a very thorough going over this is what i could find. Body dented to hell Motor ran like sh*t, stalled out three times while driving. Biiig oil leak (owner denied) Transmission was utterly utterly shot, (owner said it was rebuilt professionally 6 months ago) Even the Mutherflunkin 4wd didnt hardly work. Takes 2 hands to get it into 4hi and when you try to shift into 4lo it just grinds and/or immediately pops out and grinds, severely. Driver's side window doesn't roll up, at all. Passenger side would, but handle is broken. Arm rests are broken/falling off Seat belt latches are broken, literally, the latch case is broken in half. The ENTIRE front clip will need to be replaced, all the signal lights are broken/busted. Brakes go completely to the floor, yes they stop the truck, but if you need to stop with any sort urgency you can forget it. Headliner is missing Back bumper is trashed Idiot gauge cluster, none of it works Before i get to carried away there were a few "good" things about it. . . . Tail lights fully intact, amazingly Tail gate in decent condition Horn works Low and High beams work Blinkers work, for the most part Emergency brake works fantastic Factory lwb bed bars ZERO rust EDIT: Couldnt check the floorboards. Straight frame No tears in bench seat Bed liner Factory radio works very good "door open" buzzer works Oh and the one thing that i forgot to mention to my friend is that Murfreesboro has emissions and there is no way in hell that truck is going to pass. P.S. My friend is probably going to be joining the club in a few days, now that he owns a comanche. I know hes an idiot, but please try to be gentle. Believe me i want to do this :thwak: to him as much as everybody else on here.

Thanks for all the input guys, me and my friend will be meeting the guy tomorrow afternoon to take a look and talk things over.

Actually found the craigslist ad. http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4137146283.html

My friend is kinda bonkers about getting a jeep, particularly an MJ. He has had several ill advised automotive deals in the past and i am desperately trying to get him to reconsider. To give you an idea of the kind of guy he is, if he hadnt told me about this potential purchase he probably would have met the guy and handed over the entire $1400 without giving it a second thought. He is a good guy, its just he doesnt know what the hell he's doing. How bout now, can you see the pics?

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Posted pictures via photobucket. . . still not there? Don't know about the first part, the truck is for sale in my town, Woodbury, Middle TN. Thanks for that little bit of info on the tranny. I had no idea the comanche came with any other auto other than the AW4. Just how bad is the torqueflight? Can it be swapped for an AW4? I am pretty sure that would be a no, but just in case. I already know that 4.0 is b*@$£ to swap into an 86 so that is another mark against it, but if thngs go south at least we the option of swapping in the 2.5

This. :agree: . . . . . . . . . . . . and this, mostly.

A friend of mine who is an absolute jeep nut is eyeing an 86 thats for sale in my home town. We are going to take a look see tomorrow, but before he goes off the deep with Comancheitis i wanted to see what you guys thought of it. The Good: Single owner LWB, W/ factory bed bars and fog lights (not factory) 4X4 Auto, On the Column! red interior Bench seat The Bad: 2.8 V6 Currently, Unknown mileage. We will know when we go to look at it. Dented to hell Front clip is messed up passenger side window no worky Paint is faded pretty bad I am pretty sure my friend is going to buy it regardless, but i just wanted to know what you guys think would be a fair price so i have something to shot for when haggling. He is currently asking $1400, i was thinking somewhere along the lines of $1000. Depending on the miles.

Kid, your truck looks effing awesome. :bowdown: Those Euromatics B pillar lights are nice ain't day? :brows:

Not yet, i had a date setup to install them 2 WEEKS AGO! :wall: But this, that, and the other thing came up and i have had to put it off. Even though i had a mechanic say they were getting worn out, i checked them for myself a few days ago and couldnt get them to move at all. Maybe that loud pop when I turn is something else . . . :hmm: Either way, when i DO get around to putting them in i will do my best to update. :D

Looked these up and called a distributer to get a quote. Was about 140 for the set. Still pretty expensive. What is your experience with them? I searched for quite a while trying to determine, like everybody else, a good balance between cost and quality. XRF fit the bill. When compared to a set from Spicer they were a good bit cheaper. I had a whole list of suppliers and prices written down, but i have since thrown that piece of paper away. Local NAPA wanted over $350 for HOUSE brand ball joints. Spicer was just over $200 shipped and XRF came to $135 shipped. I looked at several dozen online/offroad forum reviews of their ball joints and all were overwhelmingly positive. I have my set sitting in my room right now waiting to be installed so i can't say i have really "tested" them, but i don't go out and buy things willy nilly. I simply don't have the funds to do so, therefore i research everything i buy to make sure what money i do spend is spent wisely. From what i have been reading XRF is the same quality as Spicer, just less money. Hope this helps you make a decision, ftpiercecracker.

Sounds to me like it might be stuck in 2wd Lo range. Either that or there is a set of 6.13s in the rear. :yes:

Love the tire swing. Sooooo much prettier than mine. And that rear bumper, Jesus that thing is beefy. How much does it weigh?

I like where this is going. 8) With the 4.56 gears and a stroker it will feel like there is a LS1 under the hood.

Seeking an unmolested Renix era, late 89 or early 90s, 4.0 engine harness. Auto or Manual transmission doesn't matter. It does not have to come with the ECU, relays, headlight harness, or any sensors. Let me know what your asking and estimated cost of shipping.