aemsee

Well, maybe you won't have to move ALL that Jeep stuff, ya know :brows:

What is your trick for separating the dipstick tube?

Where are you a Jeep tech?

Funny you put this up today. I just checked to see tha last time he was here yesterday :D . Thought maybe he got banned for being so, well, Wild :rotfl2:

The filter in it is a mesh screen type, not a composite fiber type. It is a MAJOR PITA, usually, to get the pans down and off of them. The two piece dipstick tube is what bites ya. If the fluid isn't smoked, it is shifting OK, then I would try a flush. And I am not a big fan of not changing filters. But I've had my butt kicked by so many of them darn tubes :headpop: :fs1: . It takes Dexron. The newest Chrysler literature says to use ATF +4. I aint buying it. It's an Aisin trans and they work great with the much cheaper Dexron. If I was going to use something else it would probably be a aftermarket high temp stuff. If ya just pull the plug, let it drain overnight in to a pan. This will get another quart or two out.

The plastic chicken is the best. Good work!

How many bedrooms you gonna have in that new castle? :D

Maybe they'll bring back the VM diesel Libby.

How much was the loom kit? I just had to replace a right side headlight connector on my 87 due to worn terminals. I bought a splice in connector from NAPA for 7 or 8 bucks. It had what looked to be about 12 gage wires in it. The factory wires I spliced to were extremely small. Smaller than 14 but didn't seem as small as 16. Metric wire? I think upgradeing the wires and connectors would be a good thing. If you have any electrical aptitude, buy a couple connectors from NAPA, a couple of relays and some wire and build your own. You could get the upgrade for 20 to 30 bucks in parts. Just be sure to solder and shrink wrap everything. I know I know, there have been major knock down drag outs over this. Just my opinion.

D AND TESTING - HEATER PERFORMANCE Before performing the following tests, refer to Cooling for the procedures to check the engine coolant level and flow, engine coolant reserve/recovery system operation, accessory drive belt condition and tension, radiator air flow and the fan drive operation. Also be certain that the accessory vacuum supply line is connected at the engine vacuum source. MAXIMUM HEATER OUTPUT Engine coolant is delivered to the heater core through two heater hoses. With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, set the temperature control knob in the full hot position, the mode control switch knob in the floor position, and the blower motor switch knob in the highest speed position. Using a test thermometer, check the temperature of the air being discharged at the HVAC housing floor outlets. Compare the test thermometer reading to the Temperature Reference chart. Temperature Reference Ambient Air Temperature 15.5° C(60° F) 21.1° C(70° F) 26.6° C (80° F) 32.2° C(90° F) Minimum Air Temperature at Floor Outlet 62.2° C(144° F) 63.8° C(147° F) 65.5° C(150° F) 67.2° C(153° F) If the floor outlet air temperature is too low, refer to Cooling to check the engine coolant temperature specifications. Both of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. The coolant return heater hose should be slightly cooler than the coolant supply heater hose. If the return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction in the cooling system. Refer to Cooling for the procedures. An alternate method of checking heater performance is to use a DRBIII® scan tool to monitor the engine coolant temperature. The floor outlet air temperature reading should be no more than 4.5° C (40° F) lower than the engine coolant temperature reading. OBSTRUCTED COOLANT FLOW Possible locations or causes of obstructed coolant flow: Faulty water pump. Faulty thermostat. Pinched or kinked heater hoses. Improper heater hose routing. Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports at the cooling system connections. A plugged heater core. If proper coolant flow through the cooling system is verified, and heater outlet air temperature is still low, a mechanical problem may exist. MECHANICAL PROBLEMS Possible locations or causes of insufficient heat: An obstructed cowl air intake. Obstructed heater system outlets. A faulty, obstructed or improperly installed blend door. A faulty blower system. A faulty a/c heater control. TEMPERATURE CONTROL If the heater outlet air temperature cannot be adjusted with the temperature control knob on the a/c heater control panel, the following could require service: A faulty a/c heater control. A faulty blend door actuator. A faulty, obstructed or improperly installed blend door. An obstructed cowl air intake. The engine cooling system. Heater Diagnosis CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION INSUFFICIENT HEATER OUTPUT. 1. Incorrect engine coolant level. 1. Check the engine coolant level. Refer to Cooling for the procedures. 2. Air trapped in engine cooling system. 2. Check the operation of the coolant reserve/recovery system. Refer to Cooling for the procedures. 3. Incorrect engine coolant temperature. 3. Check the performance and operation of the engine cooling system including: thermostat, water pump, fan drive, accessory drive belt, coolant flow (plugged radiator or heater core, plugged or kinked coolant hoses), air flow (missing or improperly installed radiator air seals or fan shroud). Refer to Cooling for the procedures. 4. Blend door actuator inoperative or defective. 4. (Refer to Controls/Blend Door Actuator) in this group. 5. Blend door not operating properly. 5. Check for a damaged, obstructed or improperly installed blend door or seals. (Refer to Controls/Blend Door Actuator) in this group. 6. Insufficient air flow through heater housing. 6. Remove foreign material or obstructions from cowl air intake. 7. Improper blower motor operation. 7. (Refer to Distribution/Blower Motor/ Diagnosis and Testing) in this group. This is from the 2001 FSM for heater performance testing.

If BOTH heater hoses were the same temp that is a clue. If you had the heater on full hot with the blower on high, then the outlet should be quite a bit cooler as the heat is being carried from the heater core to the air passing through it. If the blend door actuator is faulty and it is stuck on cold, then the blend door is stopping the air from passing through the heater core and the air is just going through the evap coil. It may also be that the blend door itself is broken. Either way the dash, and maybe the box, need to come out. Piece of cake on that truck.

You will find that you need a transmission between the two :D . IIRC, the 85 XJ did not use the 231 T-case that you have in your 89. It will probably bolt up fine, but it is different. 207??229?? Someone with some brain cells help me out here. :(

Better than Renault!

That is another reason for the CV shaft swap. Although my CAD has always worked perfectly. I just LOVE it when I jinx myself. Went through a field with a couple of feet of snow to take the kids sledding yesterday. No four wheel drive. Made it in and out OK, just a little more work. Guessing it's the CAD.

Definitly a blindside. At least the company stays whole, for a little while. Fix It Again ,Tony!

Well, now I have conflicting information. Has anyone actually used a 4.0 aw4 with a 2.5 or the other way around? I have a line on a 21 spline but I don't want to buy it if it won't work. Thanks!

the search thing works. Thanks!

Can I swap the bellhousing off my 2.5 aw4 with a 4.0 aw4? My trans is starting to flare on the 3/4 upshift. Much rather rebuild a trans and have it ready to go.

depends on your mechanical ability.

Wow, that was a close one. Someone was watching out for you. So how are you going to like being a vegan? Is this a family thing? 4 of my Dad's brothers died of heart disease stuff. Scary.

In some forums I belong to, if you go to a users profile page, you can click a link to show all of that persons posts. I am looking at someones thread about clutch problems. It appears to be at least second thread on the same topic as he says still having problems. I would like to be able to see what has been posted all ready so I don't repeat questions that have already been asked/ answered. Is that feature hidden here and I'm just not seeing it?

:thumbsup: :cheers: Just pattin' myself on the back

Did you grab the V8 ZJ sway bar and steering linkage as well?

It is up to the dealer to shut your SID off. If you had most of the certification at that parts dept, it would hurt their 5 star to do it. Or their just to dumb to realize they need to do it. But WE sure are glad either way!

gotta love 2dr cherokees