aemsee

And the prize goes to........Genovast!

I've seen several 8 1/4 diffs in XJ's that snapped the pinion gear shaft. Obviously they were defective as the Jeeps were stock. NOT that that is what happened to this truck, but stuff does happen. Hard to imagine what would have broken in a 231 case (guessing that is what it is) that would make it useless in 2wd but OK in 4wd, except for the end of the output shaft.

Push rods don't normally just bend on their own. Both push rods with issues from the same cylinder?

Be sure that it was another slave failure before going through all that work. Most likely it is, but that is a crappy feeling to do all that work and still have the problem.

I agree, it is definitly a case by case situation. For mine, the metal challenged part is mostly on the bottom.

Found these listed as well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-01-JE ... ccessories I e mailed to see if they sell just one side at a time. They definitly look more like my floor contour than the other pans. Bit pricey though.

If they just found the pic on the internet, I believe it is fair game with no expectation of exclusive rights for you.

I guess. But once this is ended, they will immediately put up another ad for MJ floor pans. Been a cycle for a while now.

This guy must be laughing out loud. This pan (not a pair) started out at an opening bid of 39.99 with a buy it now of 44.99. I put in a 39.99 bid a few days ago as first bidder. Someone immediately out bid me, so I bid it to what the buy it now price was. Now look at it. :eek: I sure hope it isn't someone on here :shake: . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... EBIDX%3AIT

We are very limited here as far s JY's that will let you grab stuff. Very few P&P's around (legal stuff I guess) and they are under pressure to get rid of vehicles ASAP. A couple of yards won't even let you in unless you pay a fee up front.

the chrysler axles are a whole lot easier to set up with new gears than the dana's, once ya know how.

I'm surprised yards will let you take the VC's off. Might as well scrap the engine after that.

Don't forget that hi-po air cleaner!

norton and mcaffee are bloated piles of poo. ditch them. Run a program called malwarebytes (it's free). That seems to be the best download I have found for stuff like this. For antivirus I run the free version of avast!.

BINGO! Thanks Pete ( I use a piece of wire instead of the magnet.)

Or....use a hefty long punch and a BFH and break the spot welds holding the nut to the rear crossmember section, then use some thin wire to fish a grade 8 bolt with a washer through the hole(s) and use a nut w/ washer at the shock. I couldn't count how many timess I've done that. Common problem.

I saw that orange filter in the picture

first thing to check is your belt. A slipping belt can give you that symptom.

Is the vacuum ball still there?

that could be it. where is that located? Your pic is kinda dark

It would be pretty easy to rig up your own clutch safety switch if you wanted to.

I was just going to say that. (removing the blocks I mean)

Don't misunderstand my post. I was always the maint light nazi for my crew. If one of my guys didn't do a reset they would suffer one way or another. And for the record, the LOF price at most of the dealers I worked at came in way below the Jiffy Lubes of the world after they added on cost for checking t-case, diffs etc. With the new style interval light Das is talking about, the stupid engineers designed it so that you have no idea if the reset worked if the light isn't currently on. Light comes on at 2,500 or 5,500 depending on driving habits (no actual sensor in the oil). If customer comes in at 2,300 and wants it changed due to time you still need to reset it eventhough the light isn't on, or it may turn on at 2,500. Even with the scan tool you could not read the lamp status counter. So a tech could do the reset procedure, have it not work, and they would not know it.

Not clear about the last question? Are you asking if you have to hook that stuff back up?

There will be no factory sensor on your truck to use. Hopefully the on line instructions also told you that you will need a clutch pedal cutout switch wired in, yes?